New Owner of a YM165

[California]

Any ideas on how to shim in between my wheel hub and axle shaft? There is a lot of play between the two.

Just tighten the two cinch bolts on the back side. 3/4" socket, long extension, your longest breaker bar. And re-tighten frequently, they can work loose.

 

[gioacchino]

Just tighten the two cinch bolts on the back side. 3/4" socket, long extension, your longest breaker bar. And re-tighten frequently, they can work loose.

I will have to take a picture to share with you. But my hubs only have 1 cinch bolt on them. And I’ve got them TIGHT. Lol

 

[winston1]

Sure one isn't broken off?

 

[gioacchino]

Sure one isn't broken off?

About 90% sure. But next time I’m in the barn I’ll snap a picture. I have 1 bolt + the hole for a pin.

 

[rScotty]

Any ideas on how to shim in between my wheel hub and axle shaft? There is a lot of play between the two.

View attachment 563693

Shimming would be the hard way to do it, but I guess you could add shims opposite the adjusting bolts if the wear was excessive.
The way Yanmar intended to deal with this was to use the adjusting bolts to take up the slop.
If you are running turf tires in one of the wider positions then the adjusting bolts are on the inside of the wheel & not immediately obvious.
There are two bolts per wheel. In my experience it isn't necessary to tighten them excessively. I've always used normal torque and thay have stayed where I put them.
Our YM165D rear axle looks like this:

 

[gioacchino]

Driver side:


Passenger side:


Note, the bolts with double nuts go through the pin hole. They are grade 8 bolts that I put in because before there was nothing in the pin hole preventing the tires from coming off the tractor.

 

[rScotty]

Driver side:
View attachment 563734

Passenger side:
View attachment 563735

Note, the bolts with double nuts go through the pin hole. They are grade 8 bolts that I put in because before there was nothing in the pin hole preventing the tires from coming off the tractor.

Well....no.....I see what you are saying.....but that's not right. I agree that you show the bolt with the double nut going through the pin hole in the axle, but it appears that your bolt is using an adjusting hole on the wheel hub to do so. I'm not sure where your original pin hole is supposed to be, or where it went.....but it must be in there somewhere. It is a smaller diameter hole, and unthreaded.

Take another look at the photo below. The pin shows clearly, and so do both adjusting bolts. Note that the pin is offset from the adjusting bolts. Yours looks different, and I'm not sure why. Perhaps on your model the pin hole is more towards the surface of the wheel?? Get down and look carefully; it ought to be there somewhere so that you can use the two adjusting bolts to take out the wheel slop.

Using an adjusting bolt hole as a pin hole like you show will certainly keep the wheel from sliding on the axle, but normally that's supposed to be the job that the pin does. There is no way any bolt is going to squeeze down tight enough to reduce the axle/wheel slop. It won't happen. That's the job for a pair of adjusting bolts. The heavy coil springs keep them from backing out.
rScotty

 

[California]

... In my experience it isn't necessary to tighten them excessively. I've always used normal torque and they have stayed where I put them.
Our YM165D rear axle looks like this:

I don't have as much experience, average 50 hours per year since I bought the first YM186d in 1999, but I've heard squeaking and then tightened the bolts at about year intervals. Typically one bolt can take 1/8 of a turn while the rest are still snug. Checking them should be included in routine maintenance in my opinion.

I see you also run the wheels outboard of the hubs, as I do, for maximum width. Did Yanmar ever approve of this? Seems to me they would have put a centering flange on that side if it were an approved configuration.

 

[California]

Driver side:
View attachment 563734

Passenger side:
View attachment 563735

Note, the bolts with double nuts go through the pin hole. They are grade 8 bolts that I put in because before there was nothing in the pin hole preventing the tires from coming off the tractor.

Something doesn't look right, there. There shouldn't be a hole in the hub opposite where we see your double nuts if that double-nut hole is for a cinch bolt.

Also Yanmar's cinch bolts, and the shoulder they screw into, are 1/6 of the circumference apart, (adjacent flats on the axle), while your shoulders are 1/3 of the circumference apart.

I see orange paint under the black paint. Could those be replacement hubs salvaged off a Kubota or something?

 

[4get gto]

Something doesn't look right, there. There shouldn't be a hole in the hub opposite where we see your double nuts if that double-nut hole is for a cinch bolt.

Also Yanmar's cinch bolts, and the shoulder they screw into, are 1/6 of the circumference apart, (adjacent flats on the axle), while your shoulders are 1/3 of the circumference apart.

I see orange paint under the black paint. Could those be replacement hubs salvaged off a Kubota or something?

that's an interesting observation California and think you're on to something. Definitely not the hubs Yanmar typically uses.