"New" Tiller Draw Pins Too Close Together

[5030]

It may... but currently it is installed without a slip clutch (which is on its way here). Not sure of the exact length that will introduce but suspect it will be every bit of 4-1/2". I did buy another driveshaft in case I need it, but this little one came with the tiller (as did a new set of tines).

Rule of thumb concerning overlap on a PTO shaft is... 6" is plenty unless you are above 100 pto. Then 10". I do the 10" deal because I'm very close to 100.

 

[beenthere]

While I'm not a total novice, I'm no tractor expert at all. My 33 HP TYM HST has held up well over the years, and I have no trouble swapping my brush hog, box blade, or rake on and off my 3 pt hitch.

I bought a tiller (Shibaura RS 3147, also sold as Yanmar) for a song and a dance. I've ordered a new driveshaft and clutch. But lo and behold, the draw pins are set much closer together than I need. I have located "extra long" draw pins (6-1/2" long) but even those are not long enough for me to attach this to my quick hitch. It looks like I need more like 9"!! (Yes, I know what you're thinking...) Yes, I will add bushings to reduce rattle in the quick hitch, but I need to solve the length issue first.

I searched through the forums unable to find a post related to this problem. Does anybody have any suggestions or resources? Photos attached should convey what I'm grappling with.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Have not looked at all the suggestions
But just weld one length of the right diameter round stock across the bottom to be picked up by the lower quick-hitch hooks.
Looks like a walk in the park.

Did that on my forks to be able to pick the forks up with the 3 pt quick-hitch (iMatch) and it works great. Pic shows welded round stock added.
Do the same for your tiller.

 

[caine]

Beenthere-

Unfortunately, the "rear end" pumpkin is in the way. It will require bracket extensions that stick out in the forward direction toward the tractor before the lateral piece of round stock can be welded in place. If I end up going that route I'll add some length to create more distance between the tiller and the tractor.

As luck would have it, today the hydraulic pressure for my lift arms went away (while the rest of the hydraulic system works just fine). Like Gilda Radner used to say, "Y'know, it's always somethin'! First failure of that kind in 12 years of ownership (tractor is an '05).

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Beenthere-

Unfortunately, the "rear end" pumpkin is in the way. It will require bracket extensions that stick out in the forward direction toward the tractor before the lateral piece of round stock can be welded in place. If I end up going that route I'll add some length to create more distance between the tiller and the tractor.

As luck would have it, today the hydraulic pressure for my lift arms went away (while the rest of the hydraulic system works just fine). Like Gilda Radner used to say, "Y'know, it's always somethin'! First failure of that kind in 12 years of ownership (tractor is an '05).

I would look for a knob usually down around your feet or below the seat that controls hydraulic 3 point lift arm speed in which they raise and lower, not being a know it all but that is usually the issue with lift arms that won't move.

 

[caine]

I would look for a knob usually down around your feet or below the seat that controls hydraulic 3 point lift arm speed in which they raise and lower, not being a know it all but that is usually the issue with lift arms that won't move.

Thanks, Lineman. I did play with that while the tractor was running- opening it up and closing it down. The arms move only a little bit and weakly. I suspect a blown o-ring or if the gods favor, something wrong with the linkage. When the weather clears I'll pull the seat and panel and see what I can see.