New to me chipper

   / New to me chipper #1  

Tomtint

Elite Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2011
Messages
3,380
Location
Boston
Tractor
L3700SU
View attachment 379595 Found it on my local CL. Used it a bit today and everything works as it should. Wish it pulled the branches in a bit better but for the money, I couldn't beat it.
 
   / New to me chipper #3  
Sharpening the blades may change how it self-feeds a lot.
 
   / New to me chipper
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Blades look really good now. I'm not exactly sure what to expect from a self feed.
 
   / New to me chipper #5  
I have a BX42 running on L3800. I bought it new. I adjusted the anvil to create smaller chips and seems to pull material into the hopper at a faster pace. I also make sure the chipper sits level.
 
   / New to me chipper
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I got the manual with it as well. I will read through it and see if I can adjust the anvil. Jmoneil, your tractor is very similar to mine. I try to keep the pto shaft as straight as possible. The chipper is also level but it is raised up of the ground. I'm thinking about bolting some 8x8 PT blocks to the base.
 
   / New to me chipper #7  
I have been looking for one for months....they do not come up used very often. I have so many trees I am dealing with.

Do you mind if I ask what you paid for it, it looks in super good shape.
 
   / New to me chipper #8  
My 'Bearcat" chippers ability to self feed diminish as the chipping blades dull..You can't tell by look to see if they require sharpening, ....if you can run your finger along the edge and it doesn't feel like its about to draw blood....it needs sharpening....I have a spare set of blades and alternate from one sharpened set to another. Time between changes depends on what is being chipped
 
   / New to me chipper #9  
I got the manual with it as well. I will read through it and see if I can adjust the anvil. Jmoneil, your tractor is very similar to mine. I try to keep the pto shaft as straight as possible. The chipper is also level but it is raised up of the ground. I'm thinking about bolting some 8x8 PT blocks to the base.
Make sure you have plenty of clearance.
I've like a "mini" pallet I carry in the bucket to give about an 8" lift for my Jinma..
 
   / New to me chipper
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I have been looking for one for months....they do not come up used very often. I have so many trees I am dealing with.

Do you mind if I ask what you paid for it, it looks in super good shape.


I bought it for $1450.00
 
   / New to me chipper
  • Thread Starter
#11  
My 'Bearcat" chippers ability to self feed diminish as the chipping blades dull..You can't tell by look to see if they require sharpening, ....if you can run your finger along the edge and it doesn't feel like its about to draw blood....it needs sharpening....I have a spare set of blades and alternate from one sharpened set to another. Time between changes depends on what is being chipped


The blades on this one are reversible. I will double check them again and if the other side has not been used, I will flip them. My first thought was that the current side appeared more than sharp.
 
   / New to me chipper #12  
I have that chipper (bought new) and it will rip material out of my hands it feeds so fast. I'd suggest sharpening (or flipping) the blades and then make sure the clearance is properly set. Both sharpness and clearance will affect feed rate. It should definitely be sucking material in fairly quick.
 
   / New to me chipper #13  
I got the manual with it as well. I will read through it and see if I can adjust the anvil. Jmoneil, your tractor is very similar to mine. I try to keep the pto shaft as straight as possible. The chipper is also level but it is raised up of the ground. I'm thinking about bolting some 8x8 PT blocks to the base.

When I said level, I meant level while the chipper is sitting on the ground. I don't use any blocks underneath the chipper. I will say that the first 5 hours I put on the chipper, it really pulled the material through very fast. After about the 10 hour mark, I did notice the brush/branches were taking a little more effort to go through. That is when I adjusted the anvil. Now everything goes through at about the same speed. I have about 15 hours on this chipper. Very satisfied. making lots of hardwood mulch.
 
   / New to me chipper
  • Thread Starter
#14  
When I said level, I meant level while the chipper is sitting on the ground. I don't use any blocks underneath the chipper. I will say that the first 5 hours I put on the chipper, it really pulled the material through very fast. After about the 10 hour mark, I did notice the brush/branches were taking a little more effort to go through. That is when I adjusted the anvil. Now everything goes through at about the same speed. I have about 15 hours on this chipper. Very satisfied. making lots of hardwood mulch.

I have not read through the manual yet. Is it difficult to adjust the anvil? And what is the process?
 
   / New to me chipper #15  
Detach chipper drive shaft from pto. Open the top so you can turn the flywheel by hand. The anvil is located towards the bottom of chamber should have three screws that can be loosened to adjust the distance (gap) between the blades and the anvil. Rotate the flywheel so the blade is even with the anvil and note the gap. Loosen screws and adjust the gap to your preference. Smaller gap = smaller chips. Once the anvil is set, rotate the flywheel by hand to insure all the blades don't hit the anvil. This is a good time to insure your flywheel spins wobble free insuring all blades are cutting equally.
 
   / New to me chipper
  • Thread Starter
#16  
So what set up is better for pulling in branches better? A bigger gap or smaller? And what are the downsides to bigger or smaller clips, I don't use them, I blow them into the woods as I'm chipping.
 
   / New to me chipper #17  
I would assume the clearance given in the manual is the "ideal" clearance for operation, so start with that. Larger gaps would be more aggressive pulling material in, but also make it harder to chip.
 
   / New to me chipper #18  
So what set up is better for pulling in branches better? A bigger gap or smaller? And what are the downsides to bigger or smaller clips, I don't use them, I blow them into the woods as I'm chipping.

I made my gap smaller and it seemed to pull branches in on a more consistent basis. Less having to handle the material once in the hopper.
 
   / New to me chipper #19  
Boy did you do well with that Wallenstein purchase! I have been hoping to find a used one in good condition. Is it the one previously on CL from PA or CT?
 
   / New to me chipper #20  
I would assume the clearance given in the manual is the "ideal" clearance for operation, so start with that. Larger gaps would be more aggressive pulling material in, but also make it harder to chip.

My experience with the clearance is that it has little to no difference for chip size, but if there is any give in what your are chipping, than adjusting the anvil clearance changes the cut/crush ratio. Where a smaller clearance gives more cut, less crush.

Imagine using cheap scissors or pruning shears, where the blades don't come together very well. In that case, that which is being cut can twist and bind between the blades. Tighten up the scissors/shears and that twisting/binding goes away.

Smaller clearances cause more efficient cutting, causing more aggressive cutting and feeding action.
 

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