New to me DK45SE

[k0ua]

Speaking of checking bolt torque, should you loosen the bolt first, then torque, or just check to see if the bolt is tightened to the torque setting?

I am not saying this is scientific, but I have always just checked the tightness in place. If they move, then they were not correctly torqued. If they don't move, then go on to the next one. After a while the wheel bolts will quit moving when you check them. Each time you check them the torque wrench just goes 'click' and you feel no movement.

 

[daveborg98]

I am not saying this is scientific, but I have always just checked the tightness in place. If they move, then they were not correctly torqued. If they don't move, then go on to the next one. After a while the wheel bolts will quit moving when you check them. Each time you check them the torque wrench just goes 'click' and you feel no movement.

The engineer in me says that this is not a way to get "correct" torque. There are too many variables (cleanliness of threads, corrosion, etc.) that can cause excess friction and mess with the torque reading of a torque wrench. But then the Okie in me says this is not a helicopter or airplane and as long as things are tight and I have torqued them with a decent wrench, then all is well. This should also prevent the over-tightening and warping of things from the tension.

So, I think this method sounds to be good enough for government work.

 

[k0ua]

The engineer in me says that this is not a way to get "correct" torque. There are too many variables (cleanliness of threads, corrosion, etc.) that can cause excess friction and mess with the torque reading of a torque wrench. But then the Okie in me says this is not a helicopter or airplane and as long as things are tight and I have torqued them with a decent wrench, then all is well. This should also prevent the over-tightening and warping of things from the tension.

So, I think this method sounds to be good enough for government work.

I would pretty much agree, all except the okie part.. being an old Missouri Hillbilly and all.. We use the TLAR method. "That Looks About Right"..

 

[murphy1244]

I would pretty much agree, all except the okie part.. being an old Missouri Hillbilly and all.. We use the TLAR method. "That Looks About Right"..

In Ohio we have calibrated elbows that click at the proper torque.

 

[k0ua]

In Ohio we have calibrated elbows that click at the proper torque.

Yeah, but those don't form until later in life right?:laughing: Some of my joints click pretty well now too!

 

[daveborg98]

Alright, I was able to get the tractor home tonight (pictures tomorrow). I talked with the dealer some more about the tractor. They were the ones that performed the 50 hour service but did not recall if they did another one or not. The tractor was used by a business man that wanted a hobby. It was used for scraping snow from parking lots and had the bucket blade worn to nothing. They actually welded a blade onto it. Also, both the tractor and loader owner's manuals are with it (which I am trying to familiarize myself with).

It averaged no more than 25 hours a year. and everything is in incredible shape. With that said, it should be alright to take care of the fuel, air, and oil filters until the 200 mark right?

Oh, and K0ua, I will surely be following your guide on the throttle tension. It is very stiff and I would definitely like it to be a little easier to use for when my son and wife are on it.

 

[k0ua]

Alright, I was able to get the tractor home tonight (pictures tomorrow). I talked with the dealer some more about the tractor. They were the ones that performed the 50 hour service but did not recall if they did another one or not. The tractor was used by a business man that wanted a hobby. It was used for scraping snow from parking lots and had the bucket blade worn to nothing. They actually welded a blade onto it. Also, both the tractor and loader owner's manuals are with it (which I am trying to familiarize myself with).

It averaged no more than 25 hours a year. and everything is in incredible shape. With that said, it should be alright to take care of the fuel, air, and oil filters until the 200 mark right?

Oh, and K0ua, I will surely be following your guide on the throttle tension. It is very stiff and I would definitely like it to be a little easier to use for when my son and wife are on it.

You should be good to go then do your 200 hours service, which don't amount to much, Then the big fluid change at 400 hours, but that is a ways off for you. I am almost there with my DK35se. Sounds like you got a good deal, and I am sure this machine will serve you well for many years to come. Don't be a stranger here, and come back to ask anything you want help with. Good Luck.

 

[daveborg98]

I will surely not be a stranger as I am looking at doing what you have done with using the rear remotes for a grapple (or thumb on existing bucket). There will probably be some things come up that I will not be able to find in searches.

I am still going to get some pictures up but wanted to wish you guys a Merry Christmas and thank you for helping me out on this (even if minor).

 

[k0ua]

I will surely not be a stranger as I am looking at doing what you have done with using the rear remotes for a grapple (or thumb on existing bucket). There will probably be some things come up that I will not be able to find in searches.

I am still going to get some pictures up but wanted to wish you guys a Merry Christmas and thank you for helping me out on this (even if minor).

No problem Dave, we will help in any way we can, and Merry Christmas to you and yours..

 

[daveborg98]

Here are the pictures as promised. My son has already driven it more than I have.

 

[k0ua]

Here are the pictures as promised. My son has already driven it more than I have.

Looks great Dave. You might want to weld you two 5/16 chain hooks on to that bucket. Mighty useful for lots of activities. There are two great spots already reinforced on the bucket for this purpose. Just clean off the paint and stick them on. I used 7018 at 125 amps DC

 

[daveborg98]

I have a Miller MIG unit and I think that would be a great usage for it.

Now to just find one that has decent metal. Any suggestions?

 

[k0ua]

I have a Miller MIG unit and I think that would be a great usage for it.

Now to just find one that has decent metal. Any suggestions?

I found mine at a farm supply store. 5/16 forged, made just for weld on. About $5 each.

 

[k0ua]

Tulsa chain has them for $3.21

G7 Weld on Grab Hook - From Tulsa Chain, Inc.

 

[daveborg98]

Awesome. That is service for you.

 

[k0ua]

Awesome. That is service for you.

No problem, I like to help people.

 

[ksbrdmkr]

For torque on most blots/nuts that are not critical for warping I have been using the S-K break over bar since the middle 50s and after 60 years have a pretty good feel for the amount of torque for the size of bolt. Before welding hooks on the bucket I welded a angle iron on the entire length of the bucket.

 

[oercheron]

I am quite new here and am purchasing my first tractor.
Anyways, since this is my first tractor I am wanting to know what to look at before putting it to use.

Hope you are having some fun with this tractor!

Mine is the same, a 2011 version with 800 - 900 hours of hard use. Hardly any problems, and a very good dealer (Timberstar in Vernon BC)

Things to look out for as a new owner:
- I have had to replace the ignition switch twice, both times under warranty. This is a known problem with this machine, and apparently fixed now
- If you are using the FEL much at all, definitely get some counterweight. On mine, there is very little weight on the rear tires with a full bucket and no counterweight. Kioti owners manual recommends 1056 lbs hanging from the 3 point hitch.

You can see mine doing some stuff on my youtube channel at muleskinnerjack
- YouTube