New (to me) Flail Mower

[madRazor]

Here's my new-to-me flail mower, a Ford 917H. 72 or so inch width



Recently serviced by the previous owner, and not used all that much from what I can tell. Has obviously been stored outside, at least the past couple years. I mowed about 4 hours yesterday and it handled that stuff easily on one pass. The pasture/grass was not mowed for a year at least. Now it is officially reclaimed. Even the small trees that had taken root, probably up to about an inch tops. Flails are the way to go, for me anyway. Mowed in 1st so I could chop everything up real nice. Subsequent cuttings will be quicker and shorter.

I know I should look at the gear box oil situation, and the sharpness of the knives, but I couldn't wait to use it! Did grease everything though. Gonna check her guts in the next few days, but so far so good.

Does anyone know what size/brand belts I should get for backup/replacement? The current one seems good, but it would be nice to be ready in case of failure. Kevlar?

Also, is there a recommended number of trigger-pulls per grease zerk? Not just for the flail, but for other attachments and the tractor too? Find myself scared of busting seals squeezing too much grease into whatever place....

 

[leonz]

Here's my new-to-me flail mower, a Ford 917H. 72 or so inch width

View attachment 345769View attachment 345770View attachment 345771

Recently serviced by the previous owner, and not used all that much from what I can tell.

Has obviously been stored outside, at least the past couple years.

I mowed about 4 hours yesterday and it handled that stuff easily on one pass.

The pasture/grass was not mowed for a year at least.

Now it is officially reclaimed. Even the small trees that had taken root,
probably up to about an inch tops. Flails are the way to go, for me anyway.

Mowed in 1st so I could chop everything up real nice.

Subsequent cuttings will be quicker and shorter.

I know I should look at the gear box oil situation, and the sharpness
of the knives, but I couldn't wait to use it!

Did grease everything though.

Gonna check her guts in the next few days, but so far so good.

Does anyone know what size/brand belts I should get for backup/replacement?

The current one seems good, but it would be nice to be ready in case of failure. Kevlar?

Also, is there a recommended number of trigger-pulls per grease zerk?

Not just for the flail, but for other attachments and the tractor too? Find myself

scared of busting seals squeezing too much grease into whatever place....

I want to welcome you as the newest member of the "Flail Mower nnation"

About your mower,

Be sure to remove the bealt guard and dig all the V belt dust and grass dust off the side weldment
to be sure ot expose all the grease fittings.

Use about 6-7 pumps of grease in each of the flail mower rotor bearings(the tow in the side weldments

Use the same number of pumps in the rear roller bearings.

NOW about the V belt If your mowing now and will be mowing continously you will want to see if the V belt is shedding rubber dust. if it is when you grip the belt you need ot replace it as its death will be coming shortly.

Replace it with a Kevlar belt from NAPA or TSC or another retailer as long as its kevlar for its shock absorbing ability.


All V belts are metric just like roller bearings so no worries there.

This is how you purchase them using the V belt width A,B,C, etc. and nearest inch length to size them

Most flail mower belts are B sized and Be sure to ask for belts with the same lot number as different lot numbers will create problems with belt life as every batch of V belts is different because of the nylon thread.

About your mule, the manual if you have one will tell you how
much grease to use and where the fittings are.


You should keep mowing in fisrt gear if you want to create a
better sod with a turf grass seed.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Looks like it did a great job for you. Congrats on the find.

 

[madRazor]

Thanks! I have a BCS with a flail mower so I feel like I've been a part of flail mower nation for years! Don't know why flails haven't caught on more in the states..

So how about 80w-90 in the gear box? I will also be using that in my tiller I think, as well as the tractor's front axle, and it would be nice to keep the number of different fluids to a minimum!

 

[ncridgerunner1]

Congrats on the flail! I am very happy with my 917L which I understand is a lighter version of your mower. Living in Western NC, it is surprising how many people who live and work around farms do not even know what a flail mower is. With the performance of the flail mowers you would think they would be more mainstream across the US. In my area the best local deal on belts is at Tractor Supply.

 

[Jack Yuan]

what do you BCS mean? Italy BCS brand disc mower like this???

Thanks! I have a BCS with a flail mower so I feel like I've been a part of flail mower nation for years! Don't know why flails haven't caught on more in the states..

So how about 80w-90 in the gear box? I will also be using that in my tiller I think, as well as the tractor's front axle, and it would be nice to keep the number of different fluids to a minimum!

 

[Jack Yuan]

Hi, I'm the manufacturer for flail mower. Flail mower is very welcome in EU market, but not welcome in US market, so why do you think flail mower will be more mainstream across the US? Maybe I can learn something from your remark about flail mower. I found most US customer prefer mower like Bush Hog BH16.

Congrats on the flail! I am very happy with my 917L which I understand is a lighter version of your mower. Living in Western NC, it is surprising how many people who live and work around farms do not even know what a flail mower is. With the performance of the flail mowers you would think they would be more mainstream across the US. In my area the best local deal on belts is at Tractor Supply.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I think U.S. buyers have chosen rotary mowers like the instead of flail mowers for two primary reasons. (1) cost, and (2) simplicity.

In the U.S., flail mowers have historically been much more expensive than rotary mowers. A 72" rotary mower can be purchased for well under $1,500 for a light duty model, and for $1,500 - $2,000 for a medium duty model. Flail mowers from the quality brands are priced at least double (and usually triple or more) the price of rotary mowers.

A rotary mower is perceived as a much simpler device that is easier to maintain. All you really have to do is keep oil in the gearbox, keep grease in any grease zerks and sharpen/replace the blades periodically.

 

[flusher]

Hi, I'm the manufacturer for flail mower. Flail mower is very welcome in EU market, but not welcome in US market, so why do you think flail mower will be more mainstream across the US? Maybe I can learn something from your remark about flail mower. I found most US customer prefer mower like Bush Hog BH16.

Most of the flail mowers in the U.S. are used to mow orchards and vineyards where the operator wants to cut the weeds down to ground level (scalp mowing). They are considered too slow for field mowing where the operator want a taller cut (several inches high). Brush hogs (aka bush hog, shredder, slasher) are preferred and are much less expensive than flails. You rarely see flail mowers used for highway right of way mowing--these are almost exclusively brush hogs.

Since you are a manufacturer, I would guess that you know this already.

 

[rd_macgregor]

In addition to being less costly and going faster (albeit with a rougher finish than a flail), rotaries usually have a greater capacity to handle small trees (up to two or three inches in diameter) which would be hard on typical farm-use flails. So, unless you can afford one of each, the rotary is a more versatile and cost-effective choice...but you compromising on quality of the finished cut.
Bob