New to me Tilt deck trailer advice?

[dave1949]

I would try backing the tractor onto the trailer, that may give you more tongue weight if you can let the blade hang over the tongue.

The long tongue is making it more likely to sway maybe. I think the mechanics of the situation are that trailer sway is induced by movement in the truck suspension, which acts upon the trailer axles via the tongue. A long tongue is a longer lever to pry with, making it require less effort at the hitch to move around the trailer.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

You definitely got a great deal, you could likely sell it for twice what you paid.

Personally, I much prefer chains to straps for the versatility and durability but there are many that will argue in favour of straps.

In response to the last question of your first post about loading, only load and unload with the trailer attached to your truck -- especially with it being a tilt deck, you are asking for trouble otherwise.

 

[diesel lover]

I'm quite jealous of the trailer!! How much does your kubota weight? The 16 foot trailer is just what I need to haul my 3,300 pound tractor from michigan to Indiana. The long tongue has it's advantages. Your swaying could be limited quite a lot by moving your tractor forward on the trailer 6 to 10 inches. I'm thinking that moving it forward a small amount will get enough weight on the tongue without too much. A trailer like that likely needs 60% of the weight on the front half of the trailer. Especially because it's twin axle.

Good luck on the trailer !! I'm not a bit against the straps but I would also ADD chains. I am strongly enjoying the picture with the secured vehicle! I see too many tractors, bob cats and cars traveling around WITHOUT anything holding them at all.

Is that a half ton Nissan?

 

[Fallon]

2009 Toyota Tacoma access cab TRD sport 4x4. 6000lbs towing capacity, 600lbs max tongue weight if I remember.

My L3200 is 3200 lbs with just the loader. Will be loading the tires this coming weekend now that I can easily haul it. Add in up to 500-700 for my box blade or rotary cutter.

Have 2 chains & at least 1 binder I should probably get in the habit of using.

I'm pretty happy with how the auction went. Figured worse case I'd have to do a few hundred bucks worth if wiring, brakes & bearings. Would have put me slightly worse than buying used, possibly a cheap new one.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I am envious, wish I could find a deal like that. The auctions around here; they bid stuff like implement trailers up to almost the price of new.

Probably your tractor with loaded tires plus the weight of the trailer, 3-4K, you are at max load + for your little truck. Your truck is way too small to load that trailer at its max capacity. That could be part of your swaying problem. Straps vs chains? Check your state laws on that. Here in WA chains are required for wheeled or tracked loads, minimum of 4, and attached implements require another chain or strap. Other loads it is vaguely called "adequate to prevent movement or shifting of the load". Judgement call by the enforcers.

Check those tires and wheels first thing. Stuff I see at auctions the seller has put old tires and mismatched wheels on their trailers. Road life of tires is 7 years regardless of miles. That can set you back $1K easy for load capacity of 14K. I just had to do it myself after a blowout and the tire shop showed me the tires were 15 years old but looked new at first glance. The rubber just came apart with a heavy load on at 60 MPH. Lucky I made it home on the spare. It was an auction trailer 2 years ago.

Ron

 

[Fallon]

Will check the dates on the tires, they match and have good tread at least. Definitely need to pick up a spare too.

I definitely know I'm putting my truck to the limit. Its got the power if I flog it a bit, but the weak point is suspension, not power. Pulled the tractor, blade & rotary cutter home on a friends reasonably beefy 20' trailer. Had to work to balance it & get the tongue weight right, but it did pretty good.

Hopefully a little better balancing & tongue weight gets the sway under control. A small pile of snow on the front on the way home seemed to help.

Traditional deck trailers have the axles 60-70% of the way back. The tilt decks have the deck centered on the axle(s), but the long tongue ends up putting the axles about the same distance back... I think. I'm now thinking the extra deck hanging behind the axles & lack of deck weight further up the tongue means I need to load further forward on the tilt bed compared to a standard bed.

 

[Fallon]

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11 has info on reading the date code on the tires. Need to go check mine.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Here is another table on speed, load, and Service ratings. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35

Ron

 

[terryknight]

your trailer is rated at 14500lbs. i didn't see an unladen weight on it. probably built for a mini ex or skid steer. we have a gravity tilt trailer i like them better than hydraulic tilt.

it also says you have 16.5 in tires, they re getting harder to find. might want to go with a 16" rim and load range d tires (if you only are going to haul your kubota) it will ride better, load range e if you want to fully use the trailer

 

[Fallon]

$160 a tire to replace what I got http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=8.75&ratio=0&diameter=16.5
or
$175ish for a new E range tire on a new 8 lug rim http://www.easternmarine.com/12-thru-16-Trailer-Tire-Rim-RADIAL/ I expect they don't promote D range tires on 8 lug rims.

I'll probably go with the new rims suggestion when it comes to that, only a hair more. Will think about downgrading to a D range for the better ride at my load capacities.

Looks like I might have to downgrade my great deal to just a good deal.