New to me, used Sears GT6000 - electric PTO issue

[QueBota]

Update my own thread.

Spent a little more time looking at the PTO.

Doesn't not appear to be shorted to ground, that is if I tested correctly.

With multimeter in resistance mode I connected one PTO lead to the meter and the other to the negative terminal on the battery. Open loop. I connected the other PTO lead to the meter and results were the same. Open loop. Does that means that the clutch is not shorting to ground?

Have read quite a few stories about PTO clutches grounding through the crank and causing oil to fail to lube the main bearings. Guess that could happen, have never seen it myself.

Did the amp draw test, only drew around 3.5 amps. The Warner guide for a similar clutch indicates it should draw 4 or more. If less than 4 guide suggests checking battery, switches, connections, fuses etc. Clutch may not be receiving enough current.

Going to try it directly from the battery later and see what the amp draw is. The tractor is a 1993 model, the wiring could probably use some attention. Going to take apart and clean and lube all the switches, connectors and clean all the grounds.

Tractor developed a lean condition at anything above 1/2 throttle, needed some choke to run smoothly above 1/2 throttle, probably due to crud in the fuel system. I have added fresh gas, changed the filter and replaced all fuel lines. Sprayed the carb as much as possible and have been running Seafoam through it. Will run at full throttle now without choke but still seems a touch lean. Going to pull the carb apart when I get some time. It has a carb mounted pump, the diaphram may be getting a little weak.

The 44" 3 blade deck gives a pretty nice cut as is, should be better when I have time to adjust and level the deck.

All in all seems like a pretty decent little tractor.

Picked up an original owner 1989 model (GT 18) with a horizontal 18HP Briggs, 6 speed high/low trans, front weight tray, 44" plow, chains and a custom "EZ hitch" for moving trailers all for $200. Runs pretty good and pulls hard, need to find some wheel weights. Should be able to handle most of my snow removal. If needed I can use the rear blade on the B2910. Saving for a loader mounted or front mounted blade for the 2910, maybe next year.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Steve C]

I have the same tractor with a Kohler motor. I bought it new, it has been great. The 44" deck uses relatively short blades and is easier on belts than the 46 , 50 and 54" decks. I used mine as a brush hog before I got a brush hog and a real tractor. I mowed a 3 acre field that was filled with burdock and weeds about 5 foot high. Some of the burdock had stems that were close to 2 inches in diameter. It required several passes starting with the deck in the full up position. In some areas the brush was so thick it lifted the front whees of the tractor off the ground as it pushed it over. Even this abuse didn't damage anything except for one of the spindle pullys seperated at the spot welds a couple weeks later. The new replacement pully is rivited together so perhaps that welded design was a weaker part. I now buy the rivited pullys when I need one. I don't think it matters which way the clutch wires are connected, the electro magnet shouldn't care witch way the D.C. current is going, it will make a magnet either way. It won't hurt the clutch to connect them backwards, if you don't get the results you need just disconnect them and connect them the other way.