new top link: how to install the leverage rod used to adjust the length

[rbtjr]

I had to get a longer top link due to installing the Pat's easy change quick-hitch device. I bought it at TSC. The top link came with the rod that runs through the center of the top link, perpendicular to the top link, that you use to turn the top-link turnbuckle screws to adjust the length of the top link. This rod is about 10" long or so. Due to this rod having some little flanges on each end, it will not pass through the hole in the center of the top link that the rod must pass through in order to fulfill its function. So, I wondered, how do I install this rod? I did a TBN search and saw one thread in which someone else asked the same question. The answers were that you have to beat this rod through the center hole in the top link outer body with a hammer. I hit it a few licks, and I will do this if I have to. I was wondering if anyone else came up with a different way to do this?

Thanks in advance. fyi, I am thinking about buying a 10" cap screw that will fit through the center hole in the top link, putting a locktite nut on the cap screw, and ending up with the same functionality without having to beat the rod through with a hammer.

 

[randy41]

i beat it through. months ago. still works good.

 

[greg_g]

Yup, SOP. Bang it through with a hammer. No point in over-engineering. I seat mine with one swing of a 3lb drilling hammer. The little raised "flanges" on the turning rod cut right through the soft metal of the turnbuckle, then keep it from sliding out once it's punched through.

//greg//

 

[rbtjr]

Yup, SOP. Bang it through with a hammer. No point in over-engineering. I seat mine with one swing of a 3lb drilling hammer. The little raised "flanges" on the turning rod cut right through the soft metal of the turnbuckle, then keep it from sliding out once it's punched through.

//greg//

That's what I thought. So, I tried the regular claw hammer a few licks. No progress. I then tried a light sledge hammer a few licks. Again, no progress. I must be babying it.

 

[Baby Grand]

Wail on it!
One sharp blow with a 2lb ball peen and mine was all set.

 

[sparc]

That's what I thought. So, I tried the regular claw hammer a few licks. No progress. I then tried a light sledge hammer a few licks. Again, no progress. I must be babying it.

A claw hammer is not for hitting hard steel like this rod, use a ball pein or hand sledge. I drove mine in with w 20 oz ball pein. Just hitnit hard and steady, it will take a few hits but it will go. As was said hit hard once to seat and get it started, then maintain pressuore to hold in place with one hand while hitting it hard. Took all of 2 minutes to drive it through both sides.

 

[gwdixon]

OR...you could grind off the little tabs on the rod and gently thread it through the holes. Then weld a couple of tacks where the tabs were so the rod can't slip out. Be sure to paint the welded end.

BUT...I just use a drilling hammer also. Give it a healthy whack or two.

 

[Ga Kub]

OR...you could grind off the little tabs on the rod and gently thread it through the holes. Then weld a couple of tacks where the tabs were so the rod can't slip out. Be sure to paint the welded end.

I did this too.

 

[remington270]

I have had this same problem. What keeps it coming out once you bang it through?

 

[SPYDERLK]

LAY THE LINK ON A HARD SURFACE. Also, lube pin flanges with a moly anti sieze. Hold the pin with rubber in Vise Grips so youre confident your fingers are safe. Give it a firm whack with a 3#+ hammer.
larry

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have had this same problem. What keeps it coming out once you bang it through?

Some distortion of the hole is elastic so it snaps back a little. You would be able to hammer it back thru the same spot with a smaller hammer shoud you ever need to remove.

 

[rbtjr]

I tried again this morning with a 5# short-handled sledge hammer. The leverage rod went through just fine. Took about two licks on the first hole, which had already been shaped some from my prior efforts, and three licks on the pass-through second hole. Then curiosity drove me to see if I could easily pull the rod back out, since I wanted to know if it might fall out easily from vibration. I could not, even when I lined up the little tabs with the grooves they had made passing through the hole. I think I could pull the rod out if I had the little tabs lined up precisely and pulled really hard, but I didn't want to do that. I think the rod is in to stay. Thanks to you prior posters for the advice.