New tractor advice - 11 acres long driveway, Kubota/LS/Mahindra

[hks003]

I'm usually an advocate for LS since I have one and they're usually cheaper than orange and green for the same features. But, looking at those quotes, tractors being equal, you're probably getting better implements from the Kubota dealer. A $1000 cutter and $450 box blade are going to be light weight and light duty. They would be fine for a little while, but you'll either be welding on them or replacing them in <5 years if you use stuff like I do. The trailer would be worth looking at too. I've seen good ones for that price, but it's probably right at the limit with that tractor, loader, and backhoe sitting on it.

That being said, the LS comes with a backhoe for that same money. If you don't want the back hoe, go LS and get a good trailer, box blade, and cutter elsewhere and still come in cheaper. I love my little LS, it's a work horse (G3038).

 

[FTG-05]

Welcome to the forum blakcdog!

It's looks like you're getting "package" deal responses from the two vendors. Nothing wrong with that - as long as you go into it with your eyes wide open.

A video from Messick's (a YTer that you will most likely get to know very well as a new tractor owner) about some of the pitfalls of package "deals".

Shady Internet Tractor Package "deals" - YouTube

Here are some things to look for, none of which have anything to do with the tractor color:

- FEL with Quick Attach; this let's you change out FEL implements just as easy as 3ph implements (yea, I know you mentioned a grapple but this list also works for other newbies).

- Get a Quick Hitch for you 3ph, and then make sure all your 3ph implements fit it before you buy them

- Package "deal" cost savings usually = cheaper and lighter implements and trailers.

- Your box blade should a bit wider than the rear tires. I would not hesitate to get a 6' BB for the L3901; make sure whatever BB you get, it's the heavier duty version i.e. +100/ft.

- Look at the specs for the rotary cutter/bushhog. What is the spec for: weight, size of tree cutting capability and lastly gearbox hp. Again heavier is better for 3ph implements, as someone mentioned before, as a FEL counterweight.

- If you live on hills, have the dealer put the rear tires on their widest setting. Rear tire ballast should be the default in this case as well.

- Are you buying enough trailer? Package deals are notorious for selling the cheapest, lightest duty trailer the tractor will barely fit on. Make sure you run out of tractor - and it's implements - before you run out of trailer.

Enough for now. Enjoy your new adventure!

 

[i7win7]

- FEL with Quick Attach; this let's you change out FEL implements just as easy as 3ph implements (yea, I know you mentioned a grapple but this list also works for other newbies).

- Get a Quick Hitch for you 3ph, and then make sure all your 3ph implements fit it before you buy them

+1 on both points. Grapple, tree puller anything with a hydraulic cylinder also needs the 3rd function on the loader. Sometimes a cheap implement is too good to pass up, here are some QH compatibility ideas.
Ideas to make implements QH compatible | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

 

[blackdogfarms]

Thanks for all the comments I will respond further in the morning. I did request the package be put together and the LS dealer tends to have inferior implements with their package deals.

I have figured out I will Not be getting the trailer this go around, and will be buying a grapple through 蜈思erything attachments Based here in NC. Thanks for the tip on widening the tires even though my part of the state is flat as water my property is adjacent to a creek and we have quite a few steep slopes so this may be an advantage.

Also on the box blade width I concur getting one that covers the back tracks.

The quick hitch Is something I never used growing up but it逞ｴ advantages are awesome. My neighbor is one and I am a fan. I will get the rear tires loaded with fluid.

Both the kubota and LS has the SSQA loader... this is one reason I don稚 like the JD.

Going to a 40-50hp machine is going to be out of my budget.

 

[Bearsixty7]

... Going to a 40-50hp machine is going to be out of my budget.

I would request a quote on the LS MT240HE, You should find it isn't much more than a MT235HE yet it will be turbocharged (more efficient) and the 3302 loader has 500lbs more lift capacity than the 3301 the MT235 gets.

 

[duffer]

All 3 tractor brands you're considering are certainly decent machines. It depends on how they "feel" ergonomically to you when you operate them. Obviously, I chose the Mahindra for my 10 acres. Got a few more hp, more tractor weight for FEL work and pulling, no DEF or regen issues to contend with, and the bucket is a larger capacity (cube) than the others I was looking at.

I mow all 10 acres, and use a PTO 84" finish mower. (wish I'd gotten the 96") No issues on lifting it, running it, or pulling it.

I also have a ¼ mile gravel road to maintain, plus a 400' gravel driveway. One suggestion I might have for you is to consider using a York rake (landscape rake) to maintain that, rather than the box blade, unless you constantly have to cut it and reshape it. The York rake does a great job for me. I've used my neighbor's box blade, and it did OK on the road, but the York rake is much better.

It seems like you'll be doing a lot of grapple work. If you plan on clearing significant portions of your forested areas, you might consider foregoing the backhoe on the tractor, and renting a much bigger backhoe to take down trees, and pull stumps. I find the CUT backhoe's are not intended or engineered for digging/pulling large mature tree stumps. You can probably rent a big-guy backhoe for a few hundred bucks a week. Certainly less than the $1000's you'll spend on a CUT backhoe, not to mention the hassle of changing it out every couple of weeks to mow/brush hog. And you'll get much more production out of the bigger machine. I have a friend who has a big-guy back hoe, and we took down a 100' pine, 60' oak in about 20 minutes. (clean up was a bit longer :laughing

Ditto on those recommending an HST, especially for all of your grapple work. You also might want to consider a tooth bucket attachment, to dig out smaller brush/stumps.

I've got 1300 hours on a 4 year old 2538 (now 2638). Other than an update to the ECU, no problems at all. Change my own fluids and filters. Still purrs like a kitten and works like a Mule.

Just my 2¢.

 

[johncanfield]

I have maybe 800 or 900 feet of crushed granite drive to maintain and quite a bit of road base surrounding my shop. I extend the top link on my box blade, put the rockshaft in full float and make several passes. This does a great job of grooming. I had a rake with my old Kubota L2900 and never used it here, for me it's pretty much a one trick pony. Box blade lives on my 3 point 99% of the time.

 

[newbury]

<snip>11 acres in eastern NC, 3 acres of mowing broken up on three separate 1 acre lots, the rest is heavily forested with tractor navigable hardwoods. My father has both a MF 35 and 25 hp cub cadet 4 in 1 front end loader tractor, that I have been operating for 20 years. I am familiar with these machines and their capabilities.

We anticipate building our forever home on the property within 5 years. My tractor needs are loader work (EA Grapple) for debris and hurricane clean up, keeping our 900ft driveway plus 1200 ft rock community right of way graded (several neighbors have tractors). Mowing, both bush and finish the aforementioned 3 acres, moving fire wood and doing other livestock (pigs, goats, chickens) farm chores.

I am looking for a 25-35 hp 4wd HST tractor FEL with the following attachments:

• EA Wicked Grapple
• 5 ft box blade
• 5 ft bush hog
• 5-6 foot finish mower - free from my dad
• pallet forks
• Third Function for grapple

I have emailed several dealers locally to get quotes. 3 - Kubota dealers within 1 hr, LS dealer 1.5 hrs and a Mahindra dealer 40 minutes. I ma not interested in MF, NH or JD equipment. I intend on financing the purchase.
<snip>

How big a tree do you expect to want/need to move? A 10' oak log, average 24" diameter, weighs over a ton, the LA525 loader on the Kubotas are rated for 525 Kilos, or about 1131 pounds.

/edit here's a calculator for log weight
Timber and Lumber Calculators at WOODWEB

 

[rScotty]

How much does log weight matter? Afterall, the nice thing about clearing out firewood wood and logs is that their size and weight is quickly chainsaw-adjustable to fit the loader.

BTW, when trying to compare FEL lifting ability I've found it is just about impossible to get a clear one-to-one comparison from the spec sheets. They all seem to be measuring different things in different places. I now consider that all the competitive FEL loaders are going to be roughly equal when mounted on a compact farm tractor of similar weight.

I wouldn't make any decisions on which brand based on lifting specs. Not enough difference there to matter, anyway.

Some loaders do have better visibility than others. That might be worth looking at.
rScotty

 

[newbury]

How much does log weight matter? <snip>

A lot if you are trying to make lumber.