New Trailer

   / New Trailer #21  
twabscs:

yes keep the cruis off when towing, as well as when it is bad weather. lots of people set the cruis when it snows or rains heavy, (thinking that it would be better) fact is the foot is much better to get OFF the gas when a slip accures or when braking is needed... Nice rig; if you are gonna tow with THAT truck every now and again, it should be FINE, but I would make sure and get to a GOOD trans place and have a heavy duty trans cooler installed.! fords have probalby the best of the best for trans, but any of them when pulling will over heat them and will tear em up... those LONG drives with loaded Trailer will over heat the trans in a few miles and you already noted you staied OUT of the OD. good going so far and oh Nice rig /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I have had 0 experiance with the load equalizer hitches, (seen a few drawings) but do not under stand how they HELP the load much? anyone got a good idea how they work,? I've got a 91 F150 with 300 six and 5 spd manual. I've got a class IV/V reese on there now but It does not have the load equilizer feature, which appears to be some sort of Bars & Chain affair that hooks up to the front part of the reese hitch and forward to the truck frame some where about the axel mounts...

anyhow anyone know the principal behind these hitches?

Mark M
 
   / New Trailer #22  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hi All,
. . .
Initially, I was just looking for a 10K trailer but all they had were 16/18 ft ones. It was just a few hundred more for a 20 ft/14K trailer with dovetail and adjustable, spring assisted ramps.

So, today I picked up the trailer attached. It is rated for 14K and has brakes on both axles.
. . .
Thanks, )</font>

Great looking trailer. I'd like an open trailer instead of the enclosed one I have. But, I need the enclosed trailer for cars, so I make do by folding the ROPS when transporting the tractor.

Caution: If I interpret your 14K correctly, you've got a 14,000 lbs GVW trailer. Different juristictions handle enforcing laws differently, but you've got a rig that requires a Commercial Drivers license. It doesn't matter what the weight on it is, what matters is the rating.

Check with a friendly peace officer. If you get stopped, do they check the truck capability also? If they do, they might make you disconnect and leave the trailer where you were pulled over. Well, you wanted a new truck anyway. Maybe sooner rather than later.

This thread covers Goose Neck trailer pulling the topic. Look for "DavesTractor's" posts. He got a citation for doing exactly what you are doing. Some of the others point out you can take your test in the rig you own.

I've got a covered car trailer that weighs 3,500 lbs and tow it with a new 4x4 F250 diesel. You can tell the trailer is back there, the trailer body drag is noticeable. You'll be happy with the newer truck, except for the mileage. The worst I've gotten with the diesel is 14 mpg towing the trailer on a round trip from Sacramento to Los Angeles. Empty on combined local use and modest distance trips is 18 MPG.
 
   / New Trailer #23  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The primary issue of getting a new truck isn't the CFO, she said "go ahead." I just can't "deal" with losing 3-4K on my trade in and then paying an extra 4-5K on the new (used) truck (e.g., moving from F150 to same year F250 w/V10). I'm okay with dealers making some money; it's just the principle of getting taken both ways that gets me. Yes, it's a deep seeded, philosophical issue that I have. Probably caused by some event in my youth.)</font>

Ahh...so well put. Me thinks that there are more than a few of us who share your philosophy. We opt to suck it up, and make the best of what we have, as opposed to choosing the financially hemorrhagic bail-out. We have a marginally suited tow for our trailer, but I , too am unable to make the (costly) switch.

I know lots of folks who choose the bail out option in stride in such situations, and never lose sleep over their choice. Different strokes, I guess.
 
   / New Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Hi Dave,

Yeah, I followed that thread and the debate of the >10K trailer requiring a CDL license. I'm with the group that agrees the is CDL only needed for total >26K. I will definitely check out the details when I get my license for the trailer this week.

Overall, though, things are usually a bit different here in the Midwest versus CA. My employer is in San Francisco and I travel there every month so I have ample opportunity to notice the differences... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / New Trailer #25  
<font color="blue"> "anyone know the principal behind these (weight distributing) hitches?" </font>

The simplest explanation I've ever heard is that they work like a torsion bar in automotive suspension systems. In fact, I've seen a plan to make your own weight distributing hitch and one of the needed components was a set of torsion bars off a particular Chrysler product.

The basic premise is to keep the point of connection between the trailer and the tow vehicle from dropping like a squatted 'v' and keep them more level and in that way keep more weight on the trailer axles and the front axle of the tow vehicle. That improves handling and braking characteristics dramatically.

Here is a link to a description of the process. I recently got one and the only problem I have is that I waited this long to get mine. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / New Trailer #26  
<font color="blue"> have had 0 experience with the load equalizer hitches, (seen a few drawings) but do not under stand how they HELP the load much? anyone got a good idea how they work,? </font>
Here is a site that tries to explain equalizer hitches.
mrtruck.net.
One of the items that should be looked at is the manufacturers maximum tongue weight. Weights greater than the limit require an equalizer hitch to be used.
The two items that I have noted with equalizer hitches are.
1. When using the trailer brakes the rear of towing vehicle does not dip.
2. When driving over uneven roads the trailer is not pushing down on rear of vehicle. The trailer and vehicle ride down the road as one.
When using an equalizer hitch both of the items will aid in handling of vehicle especially in an emergency stop or slippery roads.
 
   / New Trailer #27  
As far as asking your friendly local police, I would suggest that you modify that a bit. I as a Deputy Sheriff in CA can not even begin to decipher our codes related to commercial vehicles/licenses. Actually the average CHP can’t either. You need to locate a “commercial” trooper. Here in CA, they are the CHP in the pickups, but with our codes if you ask three of them whether or not a ¾ or 1-ton privately owned noncommercial flatbed has to stop at scales, you’ll get three different answers.
 
   / New Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Phil, you're absolutely right about that.

For now, I'm not going to bother as none of the following pertain to me.

A Missouri CDL is required if you operate any of the following CMV's . . .
1. A vehicle with a manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of more than 26,000 lbs.
2. A vehicle towing a unit with a manufacturer's GVWR of more than 10,000 lbs. when the GCWR exceeds 26,000 lbs.
3. A vehicle used to . . .(a.) carry 15 or more passengers (excluding the driver), or (b.) carry (15) or less people (including the driver) when carrying children to or from school and home regularly for compensation.
4. A vehicle carrying hazardous materials in amounts requiring placarding.
 
   / New Trailer #29  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( anyhow anyone know the principal behind these hitches? )</font>

The link provided by Gary in Indiana is a good one. The load distributing hitch, in combination with the sway control shown, is the way I pulled my travel trailers. I've used both Reese and Eaz-Lift, but of course there are other good brands, too. The load distributing hitch simply shifts part of the tongue weight of the trailer back to the trailer axles and to the front axle of the towing vehicle, while the sway control stiffens the lateral connection at the ball; i.e., makes it stiffer to turn on the ball. Both are adjustable for different weights and conditions.

I think most folks would agree that your truck is a little light for heavy trailering, but those old inline sixes had a lot of torque and were very good engines. My wife has a brother who had one (it was also the manual transmission) and he pulled a 25' fifth-wheel travel trailer from the Dallas, TX, area to Seattle with it. Then when we moved my parents in '95, I used it to pull a pretty heavily loaded 16' trailer about 350 miles. Very nice little truck.
 
   / New Trailer #30  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( As far as asking your friendly local police, I would suggest that you modify that a bit )</font>

Quite right, Phil. During my tenure on the Dallas Police Department, the city police did no weight and truck inspection enforcement at all. I think they may have just a few officers who do that now. I know the Sheriff's department, and at least one suburban city, have just a few officers trained to work in that field, and our state troopers also have the ones in the pickup trucks who do that kind of enforcement, but I've never known of any enforcement action taken against anything but commercial trucks.
 

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