New Trailer

   / New Trailer #1  

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Elite Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
3,530
Location
Ontario, Canada
Tractor
Kubota B2620
Finally got my new trailer. Couldn't be happier. Canada Trailers CE718-10K
Build quality and components are fantastic!
Tongue and front is done in a stone guard coating, 12,000 pound jack, rear jack legs, 5200 pound axles with brakes on both axles, Dexter hitch, galvanized rims and the suspension is all greaseable.

The aluminum trailer was nice looking, and light, but I was tired of having to go to the welding shop every time I towed it.
 

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   / New Trailer #2  
Serious trailer! Nice!

But as one who's doing some mod's and repairs on a 10 year old steel trailer this week, I'm drooling over your old aluminum trailer. :ROFLMAO: I'm so sick of rust, even if mine isn't so bad, yet. I also like the lower sides and hinged tailgate on the aluminum trailer, mine has a taller solid ramp gate with expanded metal deck on the gate to reduce air dam effect... and my tractor has basically caved that in.

I've never done it, but supposedly aluminum welds well with MIG on Argon with addition of a $150 spool gun. My machine is presently set up with C25 and a standard gun for ER70-S wire, but the change-over for the occasional repair doesn't look too terrible.
 
   / New Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Serious trailer! Nice!

But as one who's doing some mod's and repairs on a 10 year old steel trailer this week, I'm drooling over your old aluminum trailer. :ROFLMAO: I'm so sick of rust, even if mine isn't so bad, yet. I also like the lower sides and hinged tailgate on the aluminum trailer, mine has a taller solid ramp gate with expanded metal deck on the gate to reduce air dam effect... and my tractor has basically caved that in.

I've never done it, but supposedly aluminum welds well with MIG on Argon with addition of a $150 spool gun. My machine is presently set up with C25 and a standard gun for ER70-S wire, but the change-over for the occasional repair doesn't look too terrible.
Thanks. I should be good with the steel because I don't use my trailers in the winter. That's why I didn't spend the extra to go galvanized.

While nothing structural in the frame ever cracked on the aluminum, you couldn't make one trip with it without the fenders or the corners cracking. It had a lot of flex. Maybe that brand uses weaker or thinner wall aluminum? They were a good company. They paid me to add extra crossmembers and weld all the cracks every year, but it was making me feel unsafe hauling the tractors on it, even though they were well under the payload capacity of the trailer.
Would have been a great trailer if all I did was haul the ATV's and RTV with it. Was nice and light to tow.
 
   / New Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Serious trailer! Nice!

But as one who's doing some mod's and repairs on a 10 year old steel trailer this week, I'm drooling over your old aluminum trailer. :ROFLMAO: I'm so sick of rust, even if mine isn't so bad, yet. I also like the lower sides and hinged tailgate on the aluminum trailer, mine has a taller solid ramp gate with expanded metal deck on the gate to reduce air dam effect... and my tractor has basically caved that in.

I've never done it, but supposedly aluminum welds well with MIG on Argon with addition of a $150 spool gun. My machine is presently set up with C25 and a standard gun for ER70-S wire, but the change-over for the occasional repair doesn't look too terrible.
That tailgate actually held up pretty good on the aluminum one. Except for the last trip to a show I made with my Ford 3000.
I normally put wood blocks under it when loading (right where the two parts of the gate are hinged) but I didn't this time and sure enough the it snapped off. But was an easy fix.
 
   / New Trailer #5  
Serious trailer! Nice!

But as one who's doing some mod's and repairs on a 10 year old steel trailer this week, I'm drooling over your old aluminum trailer. :ROFLMAO: I'm so sick of rust, even if mine isn't so bad, yet. I also like the lower sides and hinged tailgate on the aluminum trailer, mine has a taller solid ramp gate with expanded metal deck on the gate to reduce air dam effect... and my tractor has basically caved that in.

I've never done it, but supposedly aluminum welds well with MIG on Argon with addition of a $150 spool gun. My machine is presently set up with C25 and a standard gun for ER70-S wire, but the change-over for the occasional repair doesn't look too terrible.

My steel trailer has that type ramp gate with expanded metal. Angle iron frame but 2x2 square tubing for support beams. When I bought trailer, I removed ramp and took to a friend that has welding shop and had him add an extra 2x2 support between the ones already there where my tractor wheels go when loading and unloading. 19 years later with a 4500 pound tractor and still looks like new with no caving or bowing, has acquired some rust though like yours.
 
   / New Trailer #6  
My steel trailer has that type ramp gate with expanded metal. Angle iron frame but 2x2 square tubing for support beams. When I bought trailer, I removed ramp and took to a friend that has welding shop and had him add an extra 2x2 support between the ones already there where my tractor wheels go when loading and unloading. 19 years later with a 4500 pound tractor and still looks like new with no caving or bowing, has acquired some rust though like yours.
Interesting idea! Mine is 2" square tubing covered with expanded metal, and the tubing runs vertically:

IMG_7018.jpg

My plan was to run pieces of 1/4" x 2" flat stock on edge, horizontally between the vertical 2" square tubes. With it tack welded to the expanded metal in a few spots along its length, it should be as resistance to flexing across its flat direction as if it were angle, but without the added air resistance that comes with blocking off another large fracton of the openings.

I never even thought of running more angle or tubes in the same vertical direction, but I suppose that would even better support the tires, which are forever landing between the existing square tubes.

And yeah... I know my trailer is missing a floor. I took this photo in the middle of a deck replacement job. :D
 
   / New Trailer #7  
Here is mine. Will tell you it adds considerable weight. Notice Gorilla Lift helpers mounted to top rail of trailer.

1759431766994.jpeg
 
   / New Trailer #8  
Congrats on the new trailer. I'm hoping to purchase another one for my needs. I am borderline over stressing mine. Evident by having to replace the tires every year. I;m going with a dual axle next time.
 
   / New Trailer #9  
Here is mine. Will tell you it adds considerable weight. Notice Gorilla Lift helpers mounted to top rail of trailer.

View attachment 4155064
Yeah... mine is already heavy, before even adding more bracing. I count 9 braces on yours, mine presently has 7. But you said "angle" whereas mine is square tube, so maybe double the weight? I know the 2" x 3" x 3/16" steel angle that makes the top lip adds a lot cantelevered weight when trying to lift it.

All more reasons I like the OP's hinged aluminum gate. :ROFLMAO:

I'd never seen the Gorilla Lift Assist system before, but I like it! My trailer sides are about 30" high, probably 2.5x as high as yours, so they may work even better from the higher lift angle. The only thing is that I might snag the cables too often when skidding logs onto the trailer with the winch. Are they easy to disconnect and reconnect in the field?
 
   / New Trailer #10  
Yeah... mine is already heavy, before even adding more bracing. I count 9 braces on yours, mine presently has 7. But you said "angle" whereas mine is square tube, so maybe double the weight? I know the 2" x 3" x 3/16" steel angle that makes the top lip adds a lot cantelevered weight when trying to lift it.

All more reasons I like the OP's hinged aluminum gate. :ROFLMAO:

I'd never seen the Gorilla Lift Assist system before, but I like it! My trailer sides are about 30" high, probably 2.5x as high as yours, so they may work even better from the higher lift angle. The only thing is that I might snag the cables too often when skidding logs onto the trailer with the winch. Are they easy to disconnect and reconnect in the field?
Never had the gorilla lift disconnected but they use a shoulder bolt to connect to ramp. Don't think it would be very convenient to bolt and unbolt on a regular basis. Was envious of the OP's alum. ramp also.

1759435919290.png
 

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