New TYM T25 - Did I get a lemon?

[sd455dan]

The rear fender/shell assembly is fiberglass, and the paint inside the left rear wheelwell is bubbling up and coming off in large swatches. And taking off the liquid filled rear tire is going to be an intensive exercise to minimize injury and effort. I really like this tractor, but the issues it is having should not be happening with a new unit. I would like any prospective buyers to be forewarned.

If you want to see how a recent Deere buyer experience has been, read this it might make you feel a bit better. JD has been slipping on their PDI as well.

17 Hours 4075r, It started making an odd sound. I needed to move 2000lb pallets of pellets and could not pick them up.

I went out to use the grader yesterday to repair parts of the driveway when it suddenly started making a very odd noise. From the cab, it sounds like you are dragging metal under the tractor. I pulled the panels off and checked everything, including fluids and the belt. I crawled underneath and...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[tacticalturnip]

Deere dealers are consolidating and the independent dealers are swallowed up by massive chains, the dealer quality has absolutely plummeted.

 

[sd455dan]

Deere dealers are consolidating and the independent dealers are swallowed up by massive chains, the dealer quality has absolutely plummeted.

I have to wonder how Deere would be doing if they had Steered clear of a Hedge fund partnership.

Maybe unrelated.

 

[Cgarvey73]

What dealer did you go through? Are they willing to worwith you to address the situation? I live in Blount county and am considering a TYM.

 

[Oldman53]

New member with a new tractor and looking for info -

After spending months researching tractors and doing my due diligence, I am now the proud owner of a brand new T25 with loader & backhoe and am disappointed to report that my experience has been less than expected. I picked my machine up two weeks ago with 4.3 hours on the meter from a dealer near Knoxville, TN and it now has racked up almost 11 hours - to my chagrin it has developed a consistent issue of not starting with only a strong click from the starter when the key is turned. To add insult to injury, the paint inside the left rear fender well is bubbling and flaking off in large patches.

Now I'm presented with two options - fix it myself or go thru the hassle of getting the tractor to my local dealer in North Georgia (I don't have a trailer and would have to rent one from Sunbelt for $100 each way or pay the dealer to pick it up and return it, as well as be without the machine for an unknown period of time). Like most of us here I am a resourceful guy that takes good care of his stuff, but it chaps my a$$ that I am having to deal with this after paying over $20k in cash for a brand-new machine (the last new car that I bought was in 2003 and I still have it).

I am curious if I am expecting too much from TYM to deliver a tractor that starts consistently and reliably, as well as not shed large swaths of paint on my driveway while being hand washed with a garden hose and micro-fiber cloth? Have others had similar experiences or am I the lucky guy to get a lemon??

The dealer should come get this tractor as you've had it 6 hours and should be under warranty.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

What?

You most certainly do NOT need to "pull the rear wheels as part of the 50 hour service (sic)".

Check the torque on the lugs, sure. But pull the wheels off? Nope.

It is lots easier to get to the suction filter for the hydraulics with the left rear tire off. The filter is about 12-inches long, and you have about 13-inches between where the intake comes out of the transmission assembly, and the side of the tire. So, taking off the rear tire, while not necessary, makes getting out the mesh filter, and putting it back in without getting it dirty is lots easier.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Maybe I’m missing something but I have a 2023 t25 and the rear fender assembly/shell is fiberglass. Or are you talking about something else rusting out under it? Did I read that wrong?

I think the fender/floor assembly is actually injection molded ABS. I know it is an injection molded plastic. Just not sure which plastic. When I get home, I'll get out the fancy soldering iron and see what the melt point is. But I'm fairly certain it is ABS.

Either way, fiberglass or ABS, there really isn't any paint involved which could flake.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

So, I started researching the construction of the floor and fender assembly of the T25 and the ones on my T233 and T293. Identical part numbers. So, definitely ABS. With no paint.

Plus, side of investing the time: I now know that I can upgrade the attached components and install the phone charger and USB charger

 

[tradosaurus]

The dealer should come get this tractor as you've had it 6 hours and should be under warranty.

The pickup and delivery costs are not part of the warranty.
One reason I bought local is that I would hopefully have priority for repairs and the delivery and pickup costs is about $100 total.

 

[pmsmechanic]

If you have a backhoe then why are the rear tires filled with fluid?

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

If you have a backhoe then why are the rear tires filled with fluid?

Backhoe goes on and off fairly quickly. And, he might have had using it with 3-pt attachments in mind.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Backhoe goes on and off fairly quickly. And, he might have had using it with 3-pt attachments in mind.

With just a little under 25 hp you still don't need fluid in the rear tires.

With roughly 2400 lbs tractor curb weight and 1600 lbs breakout in the fel, there will be very few times you need auxiliary weight to counter the fel load. Several bar bell weights on the 3ph would be totally adequate.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

With just a little under 25 hp you still don't need fluid in the rear tires.

With roughly 2400 lbs tractor curb weight and 1600 lbs breakout in the fel, there will be very few times you need auxiliary weight to counter the fel load. Several bar bell weights on the 3ph would be totally adequate.

I have liquid ballast in my T233, along with wheel spacers. Nothing to do with the FEL.

They are, tall, narrow and tippy. Adding liquid ballast and/or wheel weights, lowers the center of gravity and makes them quite a bit more stable. Plus, they have enough torque to spin the wheels, even in 4wd.

I'm picking up a T293 CAB, in the Idaho Panhandle when the weather cleans up, and will be stopping at the dealer on the way home to have the liquid ballast added to the rear tires. And, I have already bought front and rear wheel spacers for it.

 

[jyoutz]

With just a little under 25 hp you still don't need fluid in the rear tires.

With roughly 2400 lbs tractor curb weight and 1600 lbs breakout in the fel, there will be very few times you need auxiliary weight to counter the fel load. Several bar bell weights on the 3ph would be totally adequate.

In my experience all tractors with loaders need wheel ballast and especially the smaller lighter weight machines.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Well I've operated my tractor without wheel ballast for over 20 years now. When I need ballast I have a 600 lb weight to hang on the 3 point. I might use that weight for 20 to 30% of my fel work. The rest of the time I don't need it and I don't have to carry it around as useless weight.

Further more I feel that 3 point ballast carried low is considerably more effective than fluid or wheel weights. For any three point work my implements serve as more than adequate ballast. For side slope stability a slightly raised rear mower is more than enough to keep the tractor on both rear wheels.

From my experience I'll reiterate that you don't need wheel ballast on smaller tractors. I'll grant that it might be handy in certain situations but there are vastly better solutions.

 

[jyoutz]

Well I've operated my tractor without wheel ballast for over 20 years now. When I need ballast I have a 600 lb weight to hang on the 3 point. I might use that weight for 20 to 30% of my fel work. The rest of the time I don't need it and I don't have to carry it around as useless weight.

Further more I feel that 3 point ballast carried low is considerably more effective than fluid or wheel weights. For any three point work my implements serve as more than adequate ballast. For side slope stability a slightly raised rear mower is more than enough to keep the tractor on both rear wheels.

From my experience I'll reiterate that you don't need wheel ballast on smaller tractors. I'll grant that it might be handy in certain situations but there are vastly better solutions.

It’s not a matter of wheel ballast or 3ph ballast. Both are needed. I had a small JD for over 20 years. After using it for about 20 years without wheel ballast (but with 3ph ballast) I decided that I had enough butt puckering events with lift the rear wheels and had them filled. It made a huge difference with stability. Then I upgraded to my MX with filled tires and enjoy the additional stability.

 

[Cycledude]

I wonder how the original poster “Kikkoman” is doing these days he hasn’t replied-updated this post in over three months, hopefully all the issues with his new TYM tractor have resolved.