New Well Question

[PaulieD]

We had a well drilled recently (80' deep) and had the water tested at a local lab. The tests came back showing coliform and e-coli. I shocked the well with chlorine following directions provided by a couple of different internet sites. The latest, post shock treatment, test still showed coliform (no e-coli at least). I am now about to re-shock the well in hopes the second time will be the charm.

I'd be interested in feedback and opinions of other well owners. Is a second shock treatment normally required? What's my chances of resolving this coliform problem?

Thanks,

Paul

 

[DiskDoctr]

I posted some water and well treatment sites (info and filters) in this post Well treatment costs

Specifically, look for the UV filter at Ohio Pure Water Co. (Good prices) That's what I've used in my last two houses now. There is also a site on shocking a well. Shocking is temporary and has to be repeated regularly. UV is a "permanent" solution, just don't forget to change the bulb from time to time.

Hope this helps.

-JC

 

[Egon]

What type and source is your acquifier.

If coliforms present the water will require constant treatment with a proper system For this it is best to get proffessional help.

Egon

 

[Junkman]

Before you go spending a lot of money, more information is needed. Is there a pump already working in this well? If there is, I suggest that you insert 3 pounds of swimming pool chlorine powder into the well and then start the pump. Put a hose into the top of the well and circulate the water through the pump, holding tank, and back into the well for a couple of hours. I would make sure that the hose washes the side walls of the well completely with the chlorinated mixture. This will disinfect the casing surfaces. Once the chlorine is totally dissolved in the well, you can just let it set for a while, if you are not occupying the home. If you are occupying the home, don't drink the water, and if you shower, you will smell like bleach, your skins oils will be completely washed off and you might just have a change of hair color. Other than that, I don't see any other adverse situations arising. You can also pump out the chlorine mixture, but this will take a long time to totally dissipate. If you have the luxury of not using the well for a month or so, it is best left undisturbed.
As for the UV sterilizers, they also are a effective way to clear problems from your water, but there is a down side to them. It is the expense of the bulbs. I don't know if the life span has been increased, but when we were using them for sterilization of the aquariums, it required the replacement of the bulbs every 9 months. Also the same was required for the dog kennels to keep air born bacteria down to acceptable levels. There is also a specific amount of time that the UV rays must be in contact with the water to be totally effective. For our store unit of 1500 gallons, it took 4 3' UV bulbs to accomplish this. I just don't know exactly what the ratio of light contact to the drinking water would be. All this needs to be taken into consideration before making any decisions of water purification. If you are lucky, the above described method of disinfection will work and resolve all the problems. What might work in one region, might not work well in another. I am certain that by this time tomorrow, you will have more replies with differing opinions than you might want to deal with. This is a simple question with a myriad of answers. Read them all and decide which you think have the most merit for your situation and follow it. Other than spending a lot of money, you need to have professional guidance as to water quality before you start this quest for equipment and resolution to the problem........ Have you considered bottled drinking water..... it is only $2.00 for a 12 oz. bottle..... You might also consider milk..... it is less costly and better for your complexion and your health.... Don't believe me, ask Cleopatra /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DiskDoctr]

Junkman,

FYI. I think my UV unit is 8gpm. It's a regular filter that is designed for light exposure for the rated flow. Bulbs recommended changed once per year at about $25-$50/ea, depending upon model.

In the water softener in the other house, I spent more than that on salt /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

What I worry about with shocking is that it isn't continuous. A combination of both was best for us. Shocking kept it under control and the UV caught anything getting through. Here, UV alone on the spring water is sufficient. We treat sediment ahead of it.

Oh, one note: If you have sediment or other things in the water, treat it upline from the UV filter, as these things can interfere with the UV exposure/treatment.

-JC

 

[PaulieD]

Thanks for the help gentlemen.

DiskDoctr, I checked out the WEBSite you suggested. The advice on shock treatment provided information consistent with what I pulled off a couple of other sites. I also like the UV option if I can't get the chlorine shock to work. I was afraid a continuous treatment option would be more expensive than the UV offerings.

In response to Egons question, I really don't know the type of acquifier, but I'm in the east central side of the Adirondack mountains. There's little farming, no industry, and only sporadic residential development in this part of the country. All my neighbors have wells and none of them are treating their water (except for hardness). So, I hoping I just need to do a more thorough shock job.

Which brings me to Junkman's response. I didn't circulate the water as long as you suggest nor did let it sit in the well as long as you suggest. I have the luxury of being able to let the water sit for four or five days without disturbing our lifestyle; so I plan to reshock the well tomorrow, recirculating the water through the holding tank and back into the well for two or three hours, and then let it sit for four days. I also plan to use a slightly heavier dose of chlorine.

Thanks again for the help guys.

Paul

 

[Egon]

If the well is at about the same depth as the neighbours and tests out to the same mineral content and thier wells are coliform free you may just be in luck.

Just remember coliforms are serious medical items so maintain a testing schedule.

Egon

 

[Junkman]

Coliform bacteria is introduced into the well in many ways. One of the most common is by dragging the drop pipe over the ground while installing the submersible pump. When I installed our well system, this is what I had done and the bacteria count was off the wall. It took 3 treatments to clear it totally, but that was 20 years ago and no problems ever since. Now, I know to be more carefull.... I shock heavily after any service that requires removing the drop pipe.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Junkman's right about getting topside material into your well being a problem.

Runoff water going into a well, or close enough to get into it is a common source of contamination, too. Especially when livestock is nearby. Animal waste is a major source of contamination.

BTW, pool chlorine is a good, cheap source for shocking wells. Just be careful with it, it's strong.

CAUTION: NEVER STORE CHLORINE NEAR PETROLEUMS. Oils, gasoline, brake fluid, etc into chlorine makes fires. They usually smolder for a while, then burst into flames. Burns down stores when the oil was stored above pool chlorine and one of the cans was damaged...

-JC

 

[SPIKER]

diskdoc:

I have used the pool tablets to drop one or two into the well when we get heavy rains. I do this 2 or 3 times a year or more rians depending. reason being is I have a trench I dug for outside farm type frost free spigot for hose this also attached to my barn for water in there. there was/is about 150' of trench which was dug all of them go back to within a few feet of the well pipe/casing. The trench does not go dirrectly TO the well casing but close enough, and you never know what can seep down. the trench I fear will or can make an artificial stream chanell down to the casing. We don't drink our well water anyway but wash dishes ect with it.

anyhow I wanted to say what I've been doing, it also helps out on the RUST that happens in the water too, one or two when the water yellows up will helps to keep it down. for a day or two aferwards we don't weash any dark colors just in case but you really do not SMELL any clorine. note well is 75' deep with pump set down I think about 50 soemthign. water height is about 12~25' and is cased to 28'. rust comes more from setting in the casing than from the water it's self... it does not color up if it is kept running though the system, if it sets for a week or more with out using the water out of the casing it will discolor. I'm not sure how to prevent this without pull ing & replaceing the casing with plastic??? anythoughts/?

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif