New wiring for Lights on an old Tractor

BayouMan · Feb 2, 2011

Had a good day in the shop today working on the lighting project. I was able to remove all of the old wiring. I even got the flex conduit from the battery area to the front lights run this evening.

Next step is to start figuring out how to mount my console. I want to be able to let it hinge down and the issue I am struggling with is how to get the wiring to the enclosure and still be able to let it hinge down. I had thought about drilling some 1" holes in the 2" x 2" box angle and try to feed the wire around from the rear most light and come out about 2' further toward the front. This would make for a clean installation, but I will look at it harder tomorrow. Getting a 1/2" drill with a 1" hole saw positioned reasonably perpendicular to the box angle is my biggest concern. If I think I can go this route, I have some rubber grommets to put in the holes. Will let you know how that went.

BayouMan · Feb 4, 2011

Well, I was able to drill the 1" holes in the box angle supporting my canopy tonite. I only broke 3 pilot bits in the process

I now have to figure out the best routing for the wiring to my lights in the canopy and how to mount the console, I have some heavy duty hinges that I think will work. I thought the canopy support was made out of 2" box angle, but now I realize that it is 1 1/2". I will probably weld a 1/4" x 2' strip under the box angle to make the console fit flush against the roof. I will take pictures of this to make it more clear. I just have to mount a junction box on either side on the top side of the ROPS, to be able to route the wiring for the lights under the canopy.

Getting close to seeing this project becoming a reality!

Tomorrow, I will focus on mounting the relays, fuse panel and terminal strips in the console. Then I will work on how to mount the panel and how to keep it secured in the closed position.

As usual, I welcome any comments.

Mike

Roonabeck · Feb 5, 2011

How many amps does the alternator on your 2640 put out? Reason I ask is, you can drain your battery while the tractor's running if the number of lights you turn on exceeds the amperage your alternator puts out.

BayouMan · Feb 5, 2011

Hey Roonabeck,
I'm not sure what amperage my alternator puts out. I had to replace it about 7-8 years ago and the guy modified one that came out of a truck.

I have used these lights for several years and have never had a problem pulling the batteries down.

Thanks for asking,

Mike

BayouMan · Feb 5, 2011

I think I am now ready to start pulling wire. Got the routing worked out in the canopy area this evening. The next several pictures show where I have run flex conduit, welded on some junction boxes and other misc items.

BayouMan · Feb 5, 2011

A couple more pictures.

Once I get to the junction boxes, I will use split loaming to go to the canopy lights. My next big project involves figuring out a suitable layout of the components going in the overhead box. I intend for this box to hinge down to allow for inspecting wiring or changing a fuse or a future project. I also plan to install 3 switches here.

Roonabeck · Feb 6, 2011

If the alternator came out of a truck it's probably stronger than your average old-tractor-alternator. When I added more lights to my old tractor, I used LEDs (as some others have done) to reduce the amp draw.

Your mods look great. You appear to be trying to follow the principle that the fuse should be the weakest conductor in each of your circuits, so that should fix the (scary!) problem you had before.

BayouMan · Feb 7, 2011

My intention is that the fuses will be the weakest link. Thanks for the comments.

I did get to start pulling wire last night. Hope to pull some more today. Laying out the components in the console is my next challenge, along with getting it mounted and coming up with a suitable method to keep the console closed.

I was thinking of using a thin piece of aluminum sheet metal to mount the components on and then use some spacers to mount this inside the console. This would eliminate so many penetrations and bolt heads from showing. Not sure if that is really an issue or not.

I hope to eventually start replacing these older style lights with LED's some day, but they will have to get a little cheaper for me to justify springing for them.

Mike

Scrambler82 · Feb 10, 2011

I didn’t read all of the posts so own me if you want but here is my 2 cents.

Relays and fuses for main power should be under the hood and as close to the battery as possible; at least the fused part of the main power.

Each relay should run no more than two lights, yes a 30 amp relay can control more amperage than two lights will draw but it is more common practice. You plan on three relays so that is good.
One Switch per Relay per two lights allows for more control of the lighting and if one set goes out the other set(s) will be on so you can finish what you started or just get back to the shop.

6-55w lights draw just under 30 amps @ 12V, not a really big load but for the control box to handle this lighting safely, in the existing configuration, you will need to run an 8-ga wire to the box or one 12-ga wire for each set of lights. OverKill, yes but I always say safety first.
Each pair of lights will need a 12-ga wire running to the lights from pin 87 on the relay.
ALSO… GROUNDING, very important to get the lighting to work but also to improve the overall install and not worry about the lighting down the field a ways, you should run the grounds back to the battery AND the ground HAS to be the same size as the power wire for each set or the equivalent.

I can go on about this but that is that because I am running on…

Good Luck on the project, I like the box idea, keeps it all together but please consider rerouting the relays.

BayouMan · Feb 10, 2011

Scrambler,
I have a 100 amp circuit breaker next to the batteries. From there I am running 6 gauge marine wire to the fuse panel for both the hot and the ground. From each relay, I am running 16 gauge marine wire. Per the charts that I am looking at, this is more than adequate.

Non the less, what I am running now has got to be better than what I had done before. At the time that I first put the 6 lights on the tractor, I had them all on one switch with a 20 amp fuse. Did catch the switch on fire. Went to two switches and still had issues. Hoping this will improve things. As far as putting the relays under the hood, a 1978 tractor didn't even have that in the equation. It is going to be challenging enough to get all of the wiring bundled up good in the battery box.

I appreciate your comments and hope that I am following your suggestions more or less.

Mike