Newbe with several questions

   / Newbe with several questions #11  
MMM are tractor specific, with some very very rare exceptions (usually limited to old tractractors) you cannot buy an aftermarket MMM and used one are next to impossible to find except on popular tractors. With tractors like the CK20 or the more popular Mahindra 2015, which have very low sales nationally, finding a used MMM would likely be an impossible quest. If you were to find a more popular tractor like a small Kubota, Deere or New Holland you could find a used MMM, but even then, the search would be a tough one as they rarely are sold separately.

As for Box Blades, you can typically find used box blades. Make sure they are square and not bent. A bent, or sprung, box blade is absolutely worthless, or at least not worth any more than the price paid for recycled steel. You can find good used box blades. The heavier the better. For a 20/21hp tractor you should look at a 48" box blade. Make sure the scarifiers are adjustable without needing tools and make sure none are missing. You may want to look here for some information: Box Blade Photo Comparison

Digging a foundation properly & efficiently requires a backhoe. You will find digging with a FEL to be difficult. FELs are simply not made to dig. Going into the side of a hill and digging a 25' by 30' foundation will be a verly long hard task with a tractor. For under $200 you could rent a mini-excavator and dig that out in one afternoon.

As for a Flail Mower, that is a rough cut mower that uses sharpened chain that spin around a rotating tube to cut grass. They will cut grass and brush. They do not provide a great finished cut and they are a high maintanence and expensive implement. They are good for some applications but I can't see you using one. A Flail Mower is NOT a Rotary Cutter/Bush Hog. Both are used for similar cutting but they work totally differently. Neither will give your lawn a finished cut.

As for a RFM, they cost less than MMM but for mowing a small lawn I can see no advantage other than cost. They do come off a bit easier than a MMM but I think they are more difficult in a yard type enviornment where you have flower beds and trees to mow around. I've used 2 different RFMs, the good brands are very good, the lower priced brands (IMHO) are junk. You can find RFMs used so that may be a good option, but be careful that you carefully inspect the oil in the gearbox for water, the spindles, belts, etc. I like RFMs for mowing open areas, they are also nice to back down along creek banks and under thorn trees, but for yard style mowing I'll take a MMM over a RFM every time because in my experience they get the job done faster. For most work, they can be left on the tractor, but if you get into heavy FEL work, it is best to remove them. Others prefer RFMs, there is probalby no correct answer, just a matter of preference.

Be careful about buying across state lines (you mentioned Ohio) in hopes of saving sales tax. You would still be liable for the sales tax in your home state. Many dealers will tell you that you can buy TAX FREE if they ship the tractor into your state. That is a 1/2 truth, you don't have to pay THEIR state tax, but you still owe YOUR state tax. If you finance the tractor it is very likely that you'd be getting an unexpected tax bill about a year or two after you take delivery of your tractor. If you don't finance, then you might get lucky. But in any case you'd be breaking the law. DISCLAIMER: I am not an accountant, financial planner or tax planner, however am regularly called as an expert witness in the midwest states to tesitfy on excise taxes, cross border tax evasion and similar topics. I've testified in several states on behalf of various organizations, and at the request of legistators. I've also been deposed as an expert witness in federal court trials for multinational corporations on related topics.
 
   / Newbe with several questions
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Wow, thanks for all the great info! The Flail mower does not sound useful, a 48"brush hog would be more than enought. My main idea of looking in Oh (maybe even PA when I am up there) was about price. I am not really concerned about paying the sales tax, that is fine and plan on paying it no matter where I buy it but I do thank you for bringing that up, that is a VERY good point.
It does sound like renting something to dig the foundation would be a better idea and not even to $$.
I am now also looking at the Kubota B7510 with and FEL/ 60" MMM (you sold me on spending the extra so it is easier to cut with). Do you all think it is possible to get this out the door (with 6% tax) for around 15K and is this a good machine? From what I read it sounds like a nice tractor for a small piece of ground. I was also thinking I may do well with a small blade for the rear to move some snow around.
thanks again!
 
   / Newbe with several questions #13  
<font color="red"> I am now also looking at the Kubota B7510 with and FEL/ 60" MMM </font>


You asked if this is a good tractor. Yes. And you also looked at the Mahindra and that is also a good tractor. The question is what is more suitable for what you want to do? It seems like you eliminated the JD2210, which is a different/smaller tractor class so I won't address that.

The Mahindra 2015 is a small very heavy tractor.
The Kubtoa B7510 is a small very light tractor.

Heavy tractors are good for some things. Light tractors are good for different things. Any tractor will do most any reasonable task, but some do some better than others.

Just MY opinion, but here are some things you can do with a tractor and the OPTIMUM weight & transmission for each task:

Mow the lawn = Light tractor + HST transmission
Brush cut a field = weight neutral + HST transmission
Till a garden = Light tractor + HST transmission
Post Hole Digger = weight neutral, transmission neutral
Box Blade = Heavy tractor + Gear
Grader Blade = Heavy tractor + Gear
Landscape Rake = weight neutral favoring light, transmission depends on task
Front Loader Work = weight neutral + HST
Snow Blower = weight neutral + HST
One thing to remember is you can always add weights or ballast to a light tractor but you can't remove weight from a heavy one.

Of course you can mow with a heavy tractor and box blade with a light tractor. I generally would say that you should rank your tasks to determine what TYPE of tractor is best for your TASKS. If you have mostly mowing and minimal box blade work, I would favor a light tractor so I didn't rut my yard. If I had a 1/2 mile gravel drive that was badly rutted and lived in the woods with a small yard, I'd pick a heavy tractor and get a push mower to mow around the house.

I don't really know what your needs/tasks are, so you will need to decide what is the best fit for you.

Don't get hung up on all the specs of one brand versus the next unless you absolutely need a specific capacity for a regular job. But if you want really worry about it, you would need to understand that Kubota and Mahindra post their specs differently. Kubota usually gives its capacities at the 'bucket center' while Mahindra usually gives their specs at the pivot point for the Front End Loaders. For the 3pt hitch, Kubota usually gives their specs at 24" behind the ball eyes, Mahindra usually gives their specs at the ball eyes. You will need to take out your calculator to equalize the specs if they are not measured at the same points. See this thread for more information, it starts out on one topic but eventually gets into a great discussion about how to compare specs on tractors: Bucket size VS bucket capacity
 
   / Newbe with several questions #14  
Hello code, any of the three brands you are looking at would suit you well.. Go test drive each , make sure the dealers answer all questions to your satisfaction, and when you figure out which brands you want more specific information about ,go to their perspective chat rooms and ask those who own the model you are looking at and you will get alot of very friendly advice to help you in your search. good luck...
 
   / Newbe with several questions #15  
well after reading BOB'S A LAST POST i can add nothing more only to ReRead his ans. he as usual gave excellent advice.
 
   / Newbe with several questions
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Thank you to everyone once again. The reason the Kubota is of interest is it is light and there are several local dealers within 35 miles or so. I like having the choice and I figure if one dealer does not have a part I need or want maybe the other would. I don't think I will be using a box blade all that much, maybe here and there to tear up the high spots in the yard and start to level it out and to clean up the driveway (it is in very good shape and I bet I really could clean it up with my ATV and a drag - it is a LIGHT duty job). I figure I will use the mower the most, followed by the FEL, and maybe a little brush hogging (I could do it with a 36" for a little I think I will need - it will mainly be to open up some ATV paths and cut around the little pond). I even looked at the BX23 (Kubota) but it just seems so darn small and looks like a BH would really tax it (I do love that backhoe however). Anyone have a guess at what i would have to pay to get one for a 7510 - I am thinking a LOT.
Anyway - thank you to everyone once again
 
   / Newbe with several questions #17  
<font color="red"> 1*I even looked at the BX23 (Kubota) but it just seems so darn small and looks like a BH would really tax it (I do love that backhoe however).
2* Anyone have a guess at what I would have to pay to get one for a 7510 - I am thinking a LOT. </font>
Code54
--------------------
<font color="purple"> 1* don't let that fool you. Looks can be deceiving. The bh don't tax mine.
There are a lot of BX23 owners on here.
They're going by experience you're going by looks. Who do you think knows the BX23 best?
2*A b7510 with a BH will be a bunch more than the BX23.
If I was going bigger then a BX 23 I would skip the 7510 and move on up to a b7610 or b 2410 </font>

As far as I'm concerned the 7510 is to little more than a bx and to much less than the 7610.
 
   / Newbe with several questions #18  
Greetings,

There's been a lot of good info here but one point that's been missed (in my humble opinion) is that ...

Once a MMM is on your tractor, its a pretty big job to take it off -- so they tend to stay on all the time. And they tend to be in the way when you're doing some other tasks. If you're clearing some rough ground or working around rocks or stumps, they have a way of scraping or snagging things on the ground.

One other comment on flail mowers. They do take more horsepower and do take more maintenance (and I never found a dealer who stocked one). But they offer a level of safety over rotary mowers. Everything that comes out of them is thrown straight to the ground -- nothing flies out of them. That's why you see them used along roadsides and in public parks. I have one for my ATV and it actually does a really nice job on the lawn. It doesn't use the PTO -- has its own engine -- and is smaller and simpler to maintain than a tractor-type / PTO unit.

Thanks,

Rod
 
   / Newbe with several questions
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I do think the BX 23 is a nice tractor and after driving one I was impressed but the small tires and low G.C. seems like it would be a large issue for me. We have a lot of wood property and I know the tractor is headed to the woods for some work. I also think the bucket maybe a weak for lifting logs and such. It seems the 7510 or 7610 with the tires filled and the larger loader may make a safer and stonger package for my uses. I would like to add a small grapple in the future and figure the 75's would handle that also a bit better. Dont get me the BX is nice and I love the BH but it does not appear to have all the qualities I desire. Thanks again for the info and help. The is and several other topics has help make the decessions a LOT easier!
 
   / Newbe with several questions #20  
<font color="blue"> It seems the 7510 or 7610 with the tires filled and the larger loader may make a safer and stronger package for my uses.

============== </font>
If I were passing over the BX23 I would skip over the B7510 and go for the B 7610 or B 2410.
When I was shopping for a tractor I wanted the B2410 and was getting quotes on it.
Didn't know there was a BX23 until I saw it on the dealers lot when I went in to get a quote on a B 2410 so I got prices on both the BX23 and the B 2410.
I debated for some time over which one I wanted finally deciding on the BX23 - No regrets on that decision, but I wouldn't mind owning a b 2410 too.
Can't help but wonder what the B 24110 would be like to own.
Had I bought the B2410 I'd probably be wondering what the BX23 would be like to own.
I'd love to get a B7610 or B 2410 on my place and operate it for a day or 2.
 

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