Newbie here!

   / Newbie here! #31  
ddonnell said:
Re: Wheel offset
In the pictures I've seen, it looks like the offset off the rims is way toward the inside or tractor side. You're saying that this is a photo illusion and actually the rim offset is more to the outside of the wheel/tractor from the factory?

What I was trying to say is that from the factory the offset is toward the inside (tractor side) -- by swapping the wheels to the opposite side, you move this offset to the outside, widening the stance.

Note how far the tires are from the frame on my PT-425 above...
 
   / Newbie here! #32  
ddonnell said:
Re: Wheel offset
In the pictures I've seen, it looks like the offset off the rims is way toward the inside or tractor side. You're saying that this is a photo illusion and actually the rim offset is more to the outside of the wheel/tractor from the factory?

Yes. That is correct. If you take the left side tires and mount them on the right side and vice versa, without turning them 180 degrees when you walk around the tractor, you will get a wider wheel stance.
 
   / Newbie here! #33  
KentT said:
What I was trying to say is that from the factory the offset is toward the inside (tractor side) -- by swapping the wheels to the opposite side, you move this offset to the outside, widening the stance.

Note how far the tires are from the frame on my PT-425 above...


I believe that the tires come from the factory with the offset to the outside. Which means that the tire is about 1 in. from the frame. When you reverse, them, unbolt each tire and spin it around 180 and re-bolt. this now places the offset to the inside and therefore gives more clearance between the frame and the tire. If you have the lug tires, and you reverse them, you have to dismount them and spin the tires 180 so that the lugs are pointing in the right direction.
 
   / Newbie here! #34  
JJ -- I don't know if I'm using the term offset correctly then...

So, I'll just say that swapped the side of the tractor that the wheels were originally mounted on, and it widened the stance...

I didn't remove the tires from the wheels, nor did I change the direction of rotation of the tires (the lugs still point in the same direction) -- I just moved them one side to the other and bolted them back on.... The deeper part of the wheels were originally toward the tractor, now the deeper part is pointed outside.

You guys are making this far more complicated than it really is... :D
 
   / Newbie here! #35  
KentT said:
JJ -- I don't know if I'm using the term offset correctly then...

So, I'll just say that swapped the side of the tractor that the wheels were originally mounted on, and it widened the stance...

I didn't remove the tires from the wheels, nor did I change the direction of rotation of the tires (the lugs still point in the same direction) -- I just moved them one side to the other and bolted them back on.... The deeper part of the wheels were originally toward the tractor, now the deeper part is pointed outside.

You guys are making this far more complicated than it really is... :D

The offset is the distance from the center line. The shallow side will give you the smallest width of the tractor. Deep side to the outside will give you the widest stance. Some people say that is the only to go, but most don't
reverse. Basic physics dictates that the wide stance will give better stability, but you have to accept the consequence. Wide does look better.

On the PT's that come from the factory with lug/bar tires, they are mounted with lugs pointed forward, and shallow rim to the outside. If you just turn them 180, the lugs will be pointed to the rear. Also, they figured that someone would be reversing the tires and rims, and provided two valve stem per wheel. If you only have one valve stem and you reverse the rims, it is difficult to put air in the tires, because the valve stem is on the inside.
 
   / Newbie here! #36  
ddonnell said:
Everyone, thanks so much for all the input! You've made me feel like part of the group, and I don't even own a PT - yet!


6. It has been suggested that I get a thumb for the mini-hoe. Sounds like a good plan but PT doesn't offer this, correct? Is this something you guys could hook me up with when the time comes?


Dave

I had a thumb made for my mini hoe - attached are pictures. If you want any information on it when you are ready I will provide measurements etc. I designed it to be bolted on as I did not want to weld as there are times I want to remove the thumb but it does fold to store when not in use.


Bob
 

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   / Newbie here! #37  
BTW, if there is only a single valve stem, and it is on the inside, it is more difficult to inflate the tire -- but the valve stem is MUCH more protected and less susceptible to possible damage by catching on something...

This is a common problem with using PTs in the woods. I've broken one valve stem, on the outside of the wheel, working in the underbrush. My PT has two valve stems per wheel -- they're the only garden tractor wheels I've ever seen with two valve stems. From discussions here, I think all the 422s and 425s have two, but I'm not certain.

All my Simplicities came from the factory with a single valve stem on the inside for this reason... to protect the valve stem. It also allows you to put nice, shiny hubcaps on them and still inflate the tires! :p
 
   / Newbie here! #38  
Altlhough I haven't measured exactly, I think that if you reverse the wheels on a PT, it won't fit between the wheel wells in a standard pickup bed. That's the ONLY reason I haven't done this myself: I take my PT other places sometimes.

And if my PT ever sees those photos of the PT on Virginia Beach, I'll catch h*ll for taking mine to do work when others take theirs to play on the beach.

Phil
 
   / Newbie here!
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Another question,

Have any of you found Power Trac to be, shall we say, very reluctant to deviate from their standard offerings? Specifically, I am (and now maybe was) interested in their 425 trailer without all the attachment weld-ons (just the flat bed and ramps) so that I could pick it up, bring it home, and then have a sweet utility trailer for mulch, top soil, etc.. Since I am not in a landscaping business, I don't need to trailer the 425 plus attachment all over and all the tie-down brackets welded all over the bed would defeat the "utility" value of the trailer. I got the "no-can-do" answer from them. Don't quite understand why they wouldn't sell one of the pre-PT'd trailers which they get from an outside source to accomodate my ultimate goal. Seems like it wouldn't cost them a dime to do this unless they are trying to make a heafty markup on their trailer modifications. Any comments?
 
   / Newbie here! #40  
I am just guessing, but I doubt they make or modify the trailer at there shop. Also, looking around there are tons of trailers out there that cost less and do more for your application (not needing all the compartments). Ones that tip, have removeable wall and rails...

PT modified one guys 425 allowing 1430 wheel system, so they will do some things not stock.

Carl
 

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