Oil & Fuel Newbie with a '65 Ford 4000

[Tower]

Picked up a '65 Ford 4000 a few weeks back that I plan to use to routinely bush hog 20 or so acres of my land and pay back the neighbor for years of loaning his Ford 601 out for so long and help him this winter to gain back some land from mother nature.

Anyway, I'm looking first to get the cluster dash up and running (bad dash, so picked one up on eBay) as well as get the lights up and running since none currently work. Question is, other than these few easy items, ...and being sure to drain the gas tank and change the oil.....are there other items that I need to address? The tractor cranks up perfectly every time I touch it, so the motor is great. Just being new to this, wanted to ask around here to see if there are any pitfalls to avoid?

Other item on the beast is the pto brake being worn, but I can live with that. Thanks for all the help you can provide in advance.

 

[whodat526]

i would check the hyd oil and make sure has no water in it and probably change it anyways because the hyd pump for that tractor is a pain to change and is not cheap but they are a really good tractor to own and run

 

[jinman]

With winter on the way, I'd be sure and check the anti-freeze.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd make getting oil pressure lamp working a priority. even if you just have to run a wire from the switched hot side of the key, to a marker lamp, to the oil sender on the left side of the engine.. just to see the switch open /close.. etc.

soundguy

 

[MBDiagMan]

As Soundguy says, make that oil pressure indicator a priority.

Unless there is some sort of problem I wouldn't bother with draining the fuel tank. Just burn the stuff out of it. If you want to feel better, put some additive in it and then burn the fuel out of it.

When you change the oil, make sure you use an oil blended for diesels such as Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac or Chevron Delo (my favorite.) Get the engine at operating temperature before draining the oil and drain it at least an hour to make sure the gunk comes out. If it's really nasty, pour a few gallons of diesel fuel through the crankcase with the drain plug out to rinse out some more gunk. Then change it hot and regularly thereafter.

You might want to pull the grille and remove the air filter for cleaning. This is another item you don't know when it was last serviced. Check that antifreeze too.

I also think changing the hytrans oil would be a good step since you don't know when it was changed last. I think the manual specifies 1,000 hour change intervals, but I'm not sure.

With everything fixed and maintained, RUN THE CRAP OUT OF IT! She'll work hard for you and the harder you worker her, the happier she'll be.

 

[Soundguy]

for the crankcase and breather oil.. any c rated oil in a 15w40 should be good unless you live in an extreme climate.. then get an oil blended for that climate.. etc.

soundguy

 

[MBDiagMan]

I hate to take issue on the oil because I've seen oil threads get totally out of hand, but there are lots of oils that have a C rating that do NOT have the zinc additive in sufficient quantities for a flat tappet cam. In addition, they do not have the necessary amount of detergents necessary for good soot dispersal in diesel engines. The oils for diesels as I listed are readily available and inexpensive.

When I say C rated oils as opposed to CI-4 or CJ-4 I'm talking about some of the run of the mill motor oils that have an old CD rating or some such. The CI-4 and CJ-4 oils are the modern diesel blends. As Soundguy said, 15W40 will serve for most climates. Also if you are buying a 15W40 oil, then it most likely is a CI-4 or CJ-4. That may have been what Soundguy was driving at.

Also to the OP, I forgot to point out that the injection pump on your old tractor does NOT get it's oil from the engine as do later engines. The IP has a fill, level and drain plug. At the very least you should locate and remove the fill plug to determine that it is full of oil. It wouldn't be too much more trouble to remove the plugs, drain the oil, replace the drain plug and then fill with engine oil through the fill plug until it flows out the level hole. Then replace fill and level plugs.

 

[Soundguy]

I hate to take issue on the oil because I've seen oil threads get totally out of hand, but there are lots of oils that have a C rating that do NOT have the zinc additive in sufficient quantities for a flat tappet cam. .

his tractor is -45- years old.. just about any c-rated oil he can find in a jiffy store is -BETTER- than anything that it came with in it's crankcase when brand new... no need to reinvent the wheel here..

soundguy

 

[MBDiagMan]

Soundguy,

I understand your logic, but you might not realize that the ZDDP additive that was so common and taken for granted in the old oils and is so necessary for flat tappet health has had a drastic decrease in most common, modern oils, even the ones with an early C rating.

The CI-4 and CJ-4 OTOH still have adequate levels. This zinc additive acts as a sacrificial metal in the ultra high pressure of flat tappet to camshaft applications. In addition to and in proper balance with the ZDDP in CI-4 and CJ-4 oils is the proper level of detergents to prevent sludging that can occur in high zinc content oils.

The CI-4 and CJ-4 oils are so readily available and only slightly more expensive than common oils, it's a natural to use in these old girls. Using an oil blended especially for a diesel engine seems to be the right thing to use in a diesel engine.

Respectfully,

 

[Soundguy]

so.. do you see alot of 'cd' oils on the shelf? no? me either.. what i do see on the shelf is ci-4 or (+) or cj-4.

soundguy