Newbie with a couple questions.

RedFirstGen · Mar 23, 2015

I just purchased a 2011 4035 with 700hrs on it. I haven't even picked it up yet but figured I would get a head start on a couple questions i had. This is my first "real" tractor....other than my current John Deere X485 mower. Like I said its 4 years old with 700hrs. Let's pretend I know almost nothing about its service history. (Not 100% sure on that yet). For those of you who know these tractors, what would be your recommendation once I get it? Check the oils,put diesel in it and have at it? Or are there things I should do right away from a TLC standpoint. Specific areas/items I should look at? Etc... Just some general advice to make sure I start off on the right foot I guess. Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks

j wilson · Mar 23, 2015

i'd change all the fluids....start out fresh. and all the filters.

ktoom · Mar 23, 2015

I own a new 4035HST with about 30hrs on it, so I'm not much help with certain thing to look for on this particular tractor. In your case, I would look at all the filter to see if they might be dated or old(not new looking). Also check the quality of the oils and check the air filter. I would even get out the wrench and check for loose hardware.

If your buying this tractor from a dealer, you would hope that they replaced all the fluids and filters.

RedFirstGen · Mar 23, 2015

Thanks guys. I didn't buy it from a dealer. I bought it from a huge equipment seller in PA. They wheel and deal a ton of tractors/equipt by the looks of it. Including frequent auctions. It's a nice tractor and i didn't get caught up to much with whether or not they changed fluids etc as I got what I considered to be a **** good deal on it. So I figured if I had to do some stuff when I got her home I was still way ahead.

boblibido · Mar 23, 2015

I agree with what has been said before. Anytime I buy used, all of the fluids and filters get changed.

k0ua · Mar 23, 2015

Pretty much what everyone else has said, I would change out the fluids and filters Including front axle, unless it was marked with an hour reading. In other words if you don't know, then change it all. Now you will know. I would check every nut and bolt on it, especially loader mounting bolts and wheel bolts/nuts. Grease every Zerk you can find, and when you get the manual find the rest of them.

Fuel filter, Air filter, and of course the oil filter when you changed out the engine oil. I would probably change out the anti freeze unless you know. 2 years is plenty long enough on these tractors that use conventional anti freeze. Check for leaks and fix or replace what ever is leaking. Look over all hydraulic/power steering hoses.. With 700 hours you may need to adjust the front axle bolt (see manual) maybe clutch free play (see manual) Check air pressure of course.

Again I don't know anything about your specific tractor, but in general I would do these things to any tractor I just traded for.

As Bubba on Forest Gump said: "that's about it"

oldpilgrim · Mar 24, 2015

replace any engine belts as well.

RedFirstGen · Mar 24, 2015

Great advice. Thanks all.

Dr_Zinj · Mar 25, 2015

What Wilson and oldpilgrim said, in spades.

The Suburban Farmer · Mar 25, 2015

Excellent comments so far, and I don't have much to add EXCEPT that it may be worthwhile to run some Sea Foam through your crank case before you change the oil. 1 ounce of SF per quart of oil, run the engine for 30 minutes, drain and refill with a good quality oil.

I did this to an old engine last fall and I was SHOCKED at how much crud came out with the oil change. I had already changed the oil, but then decided to try the Sea Foam thing based on my uncle's suggestion. The "new" oil came out black as tar, with noticeable specks of congealed crud. May not be necessary, but it's one way to help make sure you "get the gunk out of the crevices" so your new fluids start off fresh.

I would buy a few extra grease zerks, too, and replace any of the ones that don't easily take new grease. If they look really bad, maybe even take a propane torch and heat up the joint to liquify the "crud" before you re-grease them. I've had to do that a couple of times just from working in really dusty environments.