Newbie

   / Newbie #31  
I've never figured out why some tractors have seat switches, some don't. A few tractors require the brake pedal to be depressed. Most tractors require the clutch to be depressed, but a few do not. Some require the sub-range to be in neutral...etc. There must be certain standards to reach, but compliance can come in different forms.

Yes dickfoster, there is no way around the seat switch, it's impossible short of buying another tractor. :)
 
   / Newbie #32  
That might be as bad or even worse than a seat switch.

Don't some of them with mid PTOs have additional safety switches?

Actually dick, it's a conspiracy. We look at the customer and start adding switches. We make a judgment about how savvy they are. If you got the seat switch, you didn't do so well on the test! Ha! :D
 
   / Newbie #33  
My tractor does not have a seat switch.. "you have done well grasshopper":laughing:
 
   / Newbie #34  
My tractor does not have a seat switch.. "you have done well grasshopper":laughing:

I've read a lot of your posts, I knew you weren't a "seat switch" type of guy.

I sure hope dickfoster is in a good mood today...this could get ugly!
 
   / Newbie #35  
Verified what I was pretty sure of. The 4025 4wd has two lockouts. One below the PTO and one that is held on the range selector by two bolts located on the left side. No seat, brake, clutch, hat, belt, suspenders lockouts, LOL. Put the PTO in the out position, the range in neutral and you turn the key. Bobs your uncle.
 
   / Newbie #37  
my 3016 doesn't have a seat switch.
 
   / Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#38  
That might be as bad or even worse than a seat switch.

Don't some of them with mid PTOs have additional safety switches?

OK, I'm back at the farm and after I eat lunch I'm going to tackle this again. I don't remember if I said this or not but the lights do not come on at all. That's what made me remove the thousand pound battery and charge it. Still no lights. So, I'm going to do the volt/ohm meter thing but I am not sure what I am looking for. Is it voltage drop or continuity? And, do I put the probes one on the hot wire and one on a good round or just across the hot and ground on the unit I'm testing, i.e. starter, solenoid, etc.
 
   / Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#39  
I don't understand this from page 38 of the operator's manual:

"A separate fuse is provided for Rotary pump starting solenoid. The blown fuse will not let the tractor to start."

OK. So what is a Rotary pump starting solenoid and where is it located? Better yet, where is the dang fuse?
 
   / Newbie #40  
I don't understand this from page 38 of the operator's manual:

"A separate fuse is provided for Rotary pump starting solenoid. The blown fuse will not let the tractor to start."

OK. So what is a Rotary pump starting solenoid and where is it located? Better yet, where is the dang fuse?

Man, I wish I had some knowledge of a Mahindra. However most of the later tractors have a Main fuse usually of 60 to 80 amps it is usually inline, wrapped up in tape and near the either the starter or alternator. Look for a lump in the wire bundle. Measure it for continuetity when you get it out of the fuseholder. It should look the same as shorting your meter probes together. A fuse is nearly a "dead short" zero ohms of resistance.

In answer to above questions. on how to measure battery voltages start by placing black negative lead directly on negative battery post and place red positive lead on positive battery post, and then move outward to measure voltage on battery clamps and ground/chassis of tractor and of course the large cable going to the starter stud.
 

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