Newbie

   / Newbie #21  
One simple way to help determine if it is likely safety switch or start relay problems is turn on the tractors headlights. Now observe these lights carefully as the assistant attempts to start the tractor. If the lights dim a bunch or even go out, then the corroded cable, corroded connections or just defective battery are likely culprits. If the lights stay near full brightness as the tractor is attempted to crank, then it is not likely a battery/cable/connector problem and much more likely is the key switch or one of the many safety switches in series with the coil of the start relay or the start relay itself being defective.

Exactly. Couldn't have said it better.
 
   / Newbie #22  
Its one of the switches. I don't remember any that havnt at least ticked when its just a low battery and yes the lights are a good tool also
 
   / Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#23  
I'm not able to get back to the tractor problem until Friday but I am reading everything after dinner. I appreciate all the help and I can assure you that I'm going to check everything indicated here. As for a schematic, I have one. If I scan it in and save it to a jpg file, is there a way to just embed it into a post here. I've not done much instructional review yet. Never mind, I see the little "insert image" button up there. I'll try to get to that this evening. If not, Friday at least.

Thanks
JC
 
   / Newbie #24  
I have the same tractor, and it's a gear drive, not shuttle. I believe there's only two lockouts, one on the PTO that he's found, and the other on the high/low range lever, must be in neutral. I think I've started mine with only the PTO disengaged and the range lever in neutral from standing on the ground, so I'm thinking that's it. I'll check for sure tonight and correct this if I'm wrong.
 
   / Newbie #25  
I have the same tractor, and it's a gear drive, not shuttle. I believe there's only two lockouts, one on the PTO that he's found, and the other on the high/low range lever, must be in neutral. I think I've started mine with only the PTO disengaged and the range lever in neutral from standing on the ground, so I'm thinking that's it. I'll check for sure tonight and correct this if I'm wrong.

I bet you have a seat switch too. I think in the later models gear and shuttle pretty much mean the same thing.
 
   / Newbie #26  
I bet you have a seat switch too. I think in the later models gear and shuttle pretty much mean the same thing.

Not all of the larger tractors have seat switches. In fact for years and years, none of the Mahindras had seat switches....so you might lose that bet. :)
 
   / Newbie #27  
1) Dave's right (of course). My 2555 has no seat switch. Brake pedal has to be depressed to start though.

2) I was going to suggest the headlight test, but I assumed modern circuitry would automatically disable the headlights during startup.
 
   / Newbie #28  
Not all of the larger tractors have seat switches. In fact for years and years, none of the Mahindras had seat switches....so you might lose that bet. :)

So that's how you get rid of the seat switch, just buy a bigger tractor.
 
   / Newbie #29  
1) Dave's right (of course). My 2555 has no seat switch. Brake pedal has to be depressed to start though.

2) I was going to suggest the headlight test, but I assumed modern circuitry would automatically disable the headlights during startup.

That might be as bad or even worse than a seat switch.
 
   / Newbie #30  
1) Dave's right (of course). My 2555 has no seat switch. Brake pedal has to be depressed to start though.

2) I was going to suggest the headlight test, but I assumed modern circuitry would automatically disable the headlights during startup.

That might be as bad or even worse than a seat switch.

Don't some of them with mid PTOs have additional safety switches?
 
   / Newbie #31  
I've never figured out why some tractors have seat switches, some don't. A few tractors require the brake pedal to be depressed. Most tractors require the clutch to be depressed, but a few do not. Some require the sub-range to be in neutral...etc. There must be certain standards to reach, but compliance can come in different forms.

Yes dickfoster, there is no way around the seat switch, it's impossible short of buying another tractor. :)
 
   / Newbie #32  
That might be as bad or even worse than a seat switch.

Don't some of them with mid PTOs have additional safety switches?

Actually dick, it's a conspiracy. We look at the customer and start adding switches. We make a judgment about how savvy they are. If you got the seat switch, you didn't do so well on the test! Ha! :D
 
   / Newbie #33  
My tractor does not have a seat switch.. "you have done well grasshopper":laughing:
 
   / Newbie #34  
My tractor does not have a seat switch.. "you have done well grasshopper":laughing:

I've read a lot of your posts, I knew you weren't a "seat switch" type of guy.

I sure hope dickfoster is in a good mood today...this could get ugly!
 
   / Newbie #35  
Verified what I was pretty sure of. The 4025 4wd has two lockouts. One below the PTO and one that is held on the range selector by two bolts located on the left side. No seat, brake, clutch, hat, belt, suspenders lockouts, LOL. Put the PTO in the out position, the range in neutral and you turn the key. Bobs your uncle.
 
   / Newbie #37  
my 3016 doesn't have a seat switch.
 
   / Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#38  
That might be as bad or even worse than a seat switch.

Don't some of them with mid PTOs have additional safety switches?

OK, I'm back at the farm and after I eat lunch I'm going to tackle this again. I don't remember if I said this or not but the lights do not come on at all. That's what made me remove the thousand pound battery and charge it. Still no lights. So, I'm going to do the volt/ohm meter thing but I am not sure what I am looking for. Is it voltage drop or continuity? And, do I put the probes one on the hot wire and one on a good round or just across the hot and ground on the unit I'm testing, i.e. starter, solenoid, etc.
 
   / Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#39  
I don't understand this from page 38 of the operator's manual:

"A separate fuse is provided for Rotary pump starting solenoid. The blown fuse will not let the tractor to start."

OK. So what is a Rotary pump starting solenoid and where is it located? Better yet, where is the dang fuse?
 
   / Newbie #40  
I don't understand this from page 38 of the operator's manual:

"A separate fuse is provided for Rotary pump starting solenoid. The blown fuse will not let the tractor to start."

OK. So what is a Rotary pump starting solenoid and where is it located? Better yet, where is the dang fuse?

Man, I wish I had some knowledge of a Mahindra. However most of the later tractors have a Main fuse usually of 60 to 80 amps it is usually inline, wrapped up in tape and near the either the starter or alternator. Look for a lump in the wire bundle. Measure it for continuetity when you get it out of the fuseholder. It should look the same as shorting your meter probes together. A fuse is nearly a "dead short" zero ohms of resistance.

In answer to above questions. on how to measure battery voltages start by placing black negative lead directly on negative battery post and place red positive lead on positive battery post, and then move outward to measure voltage on battery clamps and ground/chassis of tractor and of course the large cable going to the starter stud.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2024 MACK GRANITE GR46F DUMP TRUCK (A59823)
2024 MACK GRANITE...
2-Row Peanut Inverter (Chain Drive, PTO, 3-Point Hitch) (A56438)
2-Row Peanut...
2 - WEATHER GUARD TOOLBOXES (A55745)
2 - WEATHER GUARD...
2019 DRAGON ESP 150BBL ALUMINUM (A58214)
2019 DRAGON ESP...
2004 JOHN DEERE 160C LC EXCAVATOR (A52709)
2004 JOHN DEERE...
2001 BOBCAT 773 SKID STEER (A60429)
2001 BOBCAT 773...
 
Top