Newbie

[mahindraweary]

My schematic says 40amp. I found a 30 but no 40. The diesel start module with the corroded hot is a circuit board. There was no corrosion under the washer so I doubt that was a problem. I cleaned it up and put it back together. Now I have lights. No start. Going to PTO switch next. How do you test these kinds of switches with bat disconnected? Do you look for continuity or what?

 

[k0ua]

My schematic says 40amp. I found a 30 but no 40. The diesel start module with the corroded hot is a circuit board. There was no corrosion under the washer so I doubt that was a problem. I cleaned it up and put it back together. Now I have lights. No start. Going to PTO switch next. How do you test these kinds of switches with bat disconnected? Do you look for continuity or what?

I would test them by measuring for a voltage, which would test the wire feeding them too. try to follow the schematic if you can. Any way you can scan and post the schematic. Or a good cell phone photo of it?

 

[mahindraweary]

I have a picture on my phone but I don't know how to post it.

 

[k0ua]

I have a picture on my phone but I don't know how to post it.

If I gave you an email can you share it to an email?

 

[mahindraweary]

Nowhere on this schematic is there referenced a 30amp fuse so that must be the 40 they refer to. The 30 was good.

 

[mahindraweary]

Sure. Or text, whatever

 

[k0ua]

Sure. Or text, whatever

check your private messages I sent you my email

 

[mahindraweary]

It's on the way.

 

[k0ua]

Nowhere on this schematic is there referenced a 30amp fuse so that must be the 40 they refer to. The 30 was good.

agree, if the lights work the inline main fuse is good.

 

[k0ua]

Well i got the email, but the resolution is not good enough to make out anything but the battery at the top and a ground symbol. try texting it, I will send my cell number in a reply to your email