NH 273 baler problem

[CTPhil]

Well I'm back with another baler problem, this time my new to me NH 273. When it rains it pours.

I got the 273 in August, I've made about 500 bales. The first time out it was pretty good, but have since had troubles tying to the point where it would only tie about 4 before puking a couple with only one side tied. I tried to feed a little too fast and broke a flywheel shear bolt. After replacing it, I turned it over by hand and it broke again. I looked further and the knotter bolt was sheared too, so I replaced that. Tried it again, and the flwheel bolt sheared immediately. Checked again, the needles were in the chamber and the plunger was stopped by the safety dog and running it backwards wouldn't move the needles.

I bagged it and went home. I tried to swing the knotters up but I had to drive the pins out, everything was bound tight. The knotters wouldn't swing up. I turned the flywheel and the knotters came up, and the needles moved in lock step. It was then I noticed one of the bill hooks was way out of position, see photo. The whole knotter assy. is locked up tight.

Does anyone know what may be going on here? Thank you.

 

[RickB]

Too much knotter stack endplay; billhook drive pinion jumped time. Repair as follows; loosen bolt at RH end of knotter stack and pinch bolt on needle bail crank arm. Move needle crank arm to the right on knotter shaft to INCREASE knotter stack endplay. Retime the offending billhook & pinion. Replace billhook pinions if the flat side is worn rounded or teeth broken. Adjust knotter stack endplay as described in your owner's manual. Set knotter in the 'home' position, replace knotter shearbolt. Replace flywheel shearbolt. Call 518-398-7154 and ask for Rick in parts, I should have anything you need on the shelf and ship parts out daily.

 

[CTPhil]

Thanks Rick, I didn't know you worked at PPFT! I don't have an owner's manual, I've been watching eBay, I did find a parts manual on there. I may just break down and order a .pdf version, I understand the real thing is quite expensive.

Could the endplay have been causing the failure to tie? I've also been told to watch the roller on the twine arm, mine does seem to have flat spots.

 

[pavol]

Note the position of the knife arm on the left knotter and knife arm on the right knotter. Left knotter makes node. Right knotter finished knot. They are both cam in the same position? If not, can be torn woodruf key. Rotate the left cam? Not broken or twisted shaft knotters? Take a photo of both the position of the cam knotters below.
Sorry, I do not know English very well, but I hope you understand.

 

[CTPhil]

Unfortunately I can't tell much at this point as both knotters are raised and nothing is moving freely.

 

[RickB]

Thanks Rick, I didn't know you worked at PPFT! I don't have an owner's manual, I've been watching eBay, I did find a parts manual on there. I may just break down and order a .pdf version, I understand the real thing is quite expensive.

Could the endplay have been causing the failure to tie? I've also been told to watch the roller on the twine arm, mine does seem to have flat spots.

About 16 years here @PPFT. PDF download of the 273 op manual is $17.30 and is publication # 42027315. Hard copy is under $20.

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Don't worry about the relative position of the knife arms until you get the billhook freed up and timed. Excessive knotter stack endplay can cause random misties, and flat spots on the knifearm rollers and billhooks will, too.

 

[CTPhil]

I did end up downloading the .pdf. There are flat spots on the bronze balls on the knife arms, and a major one on the out of position billhook. Can the billhook balls be upgraded to a steel bearing?

 

[RickB]

I did end up downloading the .pdf. There are flat spots on the bronze balls on the knife arms, and a major one on the out of position billhook. Can the billhook balls be upgraded to a steel bearing?

You can put a billhook with a steel roller in it, but you don't want to. Steel-roller billhooks are made to work against a hardened replaceable cam bolted to the knotter frame (later balers). Your 273 (probably) has the billhook cam cast as part of the frame. A steel roller on the billhook will wear the cast cam area faster than you want.
Knife arm rollers can be changed without too much trouble if the arm isn't worn out and the knife is still sharp or can be made so. But if the billhook roller has flat spots, do yourself a favor & replace the whole thing.

 

[CTPhil]

Thanks for the advice. Apparently the billhook roller is not replaceable?

 

[RickB]

Thanks for the advice. Apparently the billhook roller is not replaceable?

Yes, you can replace the tongue & roller. A complete billhook for sisal twine with a brass roller is $80. The tongue & roller and pivot pin for that style billhook total just under $38 and a package quantity of the pin probably drives that price up. At $75 per hour, nobody wants to pay a tech to change the tongue, and I can't remember the last time anybody bought parts to do it themselves.

 

[CTPhil]

That makes sense, thanks. You'll probably be seeing me one of these days.

 

[CTPhil]

Well, Greg Smith came and repaired the baler, but I'll have to wait for it to stop raining to test. Rick, your parts recommendations were right on the money. The one unforseen thing was a bent knife arm, but Greg got it worked out. He noticed that the new knife arm bearings were take offs and was impressed by your dedication to customer service, as am I! Thanks again.

 

[RickB]

From Greg's reputation as a baler mechanic, I'll bet it will go to working just fine. I know I spent a lot more time fixing balers in Litchfield County after he "retired" than when he was still at Grunder's (back when I did road service full time). An experienced and thorough knotter guy can repair and adjust a baler and not have to do any field adjustments probably 95% of the time or more.

Keep us in mind for parts for that new 3550. We do OEM as well as aftermarket parts from a variety of sources.

 

[CTPhil]

Keep us in mind for parts for that new 3550. We do OEM as well as aftermarket parts from a variety of sources.

Good to know. I'm definitely going to address the kingpins right away.

 

[CTPhil]

Just tested the baler, it tied every knot. :thumbsup:

 

[Richard Carrier]

Moved to North Carolina from Eastern Ct a few years ago, brought my 273 w/ 54A thrower with me. Couldn't afford to bring my most trusted baler mechanic from Kahn Tractor in Ct. By now, all the 273's have some years on them and mine is no exception. I bought new twine discs, holders and cleaners because mine were visibly worn to the point that the twine was slipping inbetween the disc and the holder which I suspect is the cause of the frayed area on the twine a few inches from the knot. The fraying wasn't a problem until the bale got to the thrower, then the twine would burst (in mid air) and hay was everywhere but in the wagon. ) Finally mustered the courage to try to replace the discs, holders and cleaners but haven' t been able to remove the pivot/anchor pin (P/N 67006) for the holder. My desperation has reached the point of considering cutting a slot in one of my wood chisels to make a miniture 'ball joint" fork. Surely there must be a better way. Any suggestions?
Richard Carrier