NH Class II Warranty Issues (Fast Help Needed)

[JerryG]

Filling the filter is always a good idea, if you can. A lot of filter locations are not conducive to the filter being filled. An time you can fill a filter it cut down on the time to refill the system.
What I don't understand is the "disks". Class II tractors have a gear pump, do they not?

 

[Spencer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What I don't understand is the "disks". Class II tractors have a gear pump, do they not? )</font>

My brother-in-law was refering to the disks inside the tractor. He said that the way the hydrostatic drive works is that there are two series of disks with fluid in between them. The disks are quite close together but they don't touch. He said that the hydraulic fluid transfers the energy from one series of disks to the other. He said that if you don't fill the hydro filters that some air can get it the system and cause an air lock. Somehow this can "gall" the disks. I don't know squat about the hydro system or any other type of transmission so he was explaining this in terms that he thought I could understand.

 

[snowbound]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( He said that the way the hydrostatic drive works is that there are two series of disks with fluid in between them. The disks are quite close together but they don't touch. He said that the hydraulic fluid transfers the energy from one series of disks to the other. Somehow this can "gall" the disks. )</font>

Galling would happen if two surfaces of the same material rub together that are not supposed to rub together. So if there isn't enough oil to coat them, then galling could happen.

But if this was going to usually happen from not filling the oil filter when changing it then I would think the manual would tell people to fill the oil filter when changing it.

 

[PineRidge]

I agree, while pre-filling the hydro filters may or may not be a good idea in our eyes evidentially New Holland must not think that its a priority as they don’t mention it that I can see.

 

[JerryG]

I must have misread, I thought that the disk were meant to be in the pump. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[Mosey]

My rear PTO is hard to engage and disengage. As you stated, mine works fine. Sometimes I have to double clutch it, but it always goes in and out easy.

My 3-point lever is too stiff. Mine was like that also. I did the adjustment described in the thread Boomer - 3 pt lever sticking.

The 540 RPM light does not work. Never had this problem.

The dash gets condensation behind it. I've had a minor problem with this after I wash the tractor, but otherwise no problem.

My battery leaked. I also had a minor problem with this, so but it didn't damage the radiator or anything, just corroded the terminals and ate some of the paint on the tray. I had to replace one of the terminals. I sprayed the terminals with CRC Battery Terminal Protector. Shortly after my 2 year warranty expired, the battery also "expired" and I put in a new one (from TSC).

My parking brake warning light stays on. Never had this problem.

A slight but noticeable shimmy when I am driving. What do you mean by "shimmy"? If you mean the front wheels shaking, I've never had that problem. I've never noticed anything but a kind of "bouncing" sometimes when I drive on the road at high speed, which I rarely do.

"the momentum from the cutter seemed to propel my tractor forward after I removed my foot from the hydro pedal" Very weird! Hopefully the new pump will take care of this.

I don't know much about the "galling" issue, but I find it hard to believe that not filling the filters with oil before installing them would cause any damage. It's a good thing to do, but the manual doesn't say anything about it so it's not necessary.

Other warranty issues I've had are:

Rear PTO lever moved when PTO was under load. The dealer adjusted the spring tension on the detent. See TC29D rear PTO lever moves.

Hydrostatic pedal sticking. See Hydrostatic drive sticking. When the tractor is not warmed up, I still have a little trouble with it wanting to continue to creep forward after I let up on the pedal, but a slight tap on the back of the pedal takes care of it. I tried adjusting the "shock" as described in the thread HST pedal not returning to neutral, but it didn't help in my case.

Steering wheel shock gave out. See Steering wheel shock gave out. It's OK now.

 

[techinNY]

From what you are describing I think your brother in law is thinking of an automatic trans. in a car, they do have what they call clutch packs which have disks within them. A hydrostatic trans. is different. It would take forever to explain in words so someone could under stand it, so I will not bore you. There are two rotating groups that have small hyd pistons within them. One group is rotated by the input shaft that is driven by the engine, this is called the "pump". When the hydro pedal is in the neutral position the pistons are not pumping any fluid. When you step on the hydro pedal ( forward or reverse ) you change the angle of the swash plate which makes the pistons move up and down and pump oil. The oil is sent to the other rotating group known as the "motor". The swash plate for the motor is at a fixed angle, (unless you have a classIII, then it changes when you use the hi/lo switch) so the oil makes the pistons move up and down and rotate the output shaft. The more you push on the hydro pedal, the greater the angle on the swash plate for the pump, which makes the pistons move further and pump more oil, which makes the motor turn faster. Well, how'd I do? There are more intricate details but this is just an overview to give you some idea. As far as filling filters before installing goes, it does not hurt but is not necesary, the pumps, (hyd. and hydro.) would have enough oil in them to keep them lubed until the filters were filled as long as you do not run the engine much above an idle until they are filled.

 

[Spencer]

I picked up my tractor at the dealership yesterday and brought it home. I haven't had time to fully test the tractor but I am confident that they addressed my problems as best as they could. There was a younger mechanic in the shop who I believe did the majority of work on my tractor. He was helped along and guided by the service manager. They both spent quite a bit of time with me explaining what they had done and answering my multitude of questions.

My rear PTO is hard to engage and disengage
The adjusted something to try and correct this. I engaged and disengaged the rear PTO three different times last night and each time it went in and out fairly well. It seems to work a lot better than before.

My 3-point lever is too stiff
They made an adjustment and the lever works great now.

The 540 RPM light does not work.
The dash gets condensation behind it.
They replaced the light bulb for the 540 RPM and then they resealed the dash to try and prevent the condensation. A few days later the condensation came back so they ordered me a whole new instrument cluster. The new instrument cluster is sealed from the factory and so far so good. My hour meter now shows less than one hour on it. I would prefer that it showed the actual 414.7 hours that it had on it but I guess I can deal with it. They said that they could have taken the instrument cluster apart and rolled the hours forward but then I would probably get the condensation problem again.

My battery leaked.
They cleaned up the battery and surrounding area but they did not repaint anything. I was disappointed in them not doing more to correct this. There is a Dealer Asist (#454) known issue with these batteries leaking. Their solution is to drain the electrolye level so that it is 1/8" to 1/4" below the fill ring.

My parking brake warning light stays on.
They replaced the whole parking brake light switch.

A slight but noticeable shimmy when I am driving.
They replaced my hydraulic pump and they said that the replacment pump should correct a lot of the problems that I was having with the tractor. I haven't had a chance to check to see whether the shimmy is gone or not but the younger mechanic said that he is confident that it is gone. I was having some other hydraulic problems that I didn't remember to list here but that I let the dealer know about. They did a test on my flow rate by hooking up their meter to my rear remote. The first test was without the tractor being under load and it did ok during those tests. The next set of tests were with the restrictor turned in on my hydraulic block which simulates the tractor being under load. My tractor failed 5 out of 6 of those tests. They said that they could have just rebuilt my hydraulic pump but since it was under warranty they went ahead and ordered a completly new pump. The other hydraulic problems that I was having were with the 3-point lift not always working, the 3-point seemed to not be able to lift as much weight as it use to, and my loader having considerable leakdown. They didn't test any of these other problems until after they replaced the pump so they didn't get to witness them for themselves. They told me that after they replaced the pump they went out and filled my bucket up with gravel and then turned off the tractor. After one hour the bucket dropped less than one inch so they were wondering what I was complaining about. If they would have done that test before they replaced the pump they would have known. I had considerable leakdown even while the tractor was running. They said that they guess the bad pump could have been causing that but they are not sure. As for my 3-point lift not being as strong as it use to be, they took it out and lifted up the heavy end of a skid steer with my 3-point arms. They said that they didn't get very far but that the tractor almost stalled before the 3-point stopped lifting so they are confident that it is working properly now.

I didn't get much time of the tractor last night but I was happy with what I've noticed so far. The hydraulic reponse from both the loader and the 3-point is so much better than it has been lately. Its been two years since I took delivery of the tractor so I can't say for sure, but it sure does seem like the loader works better that it did when it was brand new. The operation is so smooth and quick, and it seems much quieter now as well.

They also worked on my hydro pedal for me. They performed a HST Nuetralizer to try and get the pedal to return back to neutral when the foot is released from the pedal. I didn't really notice any difference last night but I appreciate them trying.

When I installed my rear remote kit I had to take the "POD" off the right fender. The pod is the plastic part that the levers stick up through. In the process one of the plastic studs broke off. They were nice enough to replace the whole pod for me.


This last issue is kind of strange.
In regards to my Bush Hog rotary cutter pushing my tractor forward. My dealer initially told me what most of you said, and that is that there is no way that this could be happening on a hydrostatic tractor. It turns out that there is a New Holland Asist Bulletin (#443) that refers to exactly the problem I was experiencing. This problem can cause a failure of the PTO drive countershaft (Part #SBA322570701) and PTO gear (Part #SBA322341330). There solution was for me to purchase a overrunning clutch from them. They say that I haven't done any harm to my tractor. I wish I was as confident as they are that everything is OK. I will install the overrunning clutch and I would strongly suggest that all you class II TC owners do the same as soon as possible. If Spencer200 or some other New Holland dealers or mechanics want to read this bulletin and give us their experience or opinions that would be great.

So if the hydraulic pump took care of the shimmy then I am quite satisfied with the way that the dealership handled these issues. There is certainly no comparison between this tractor dealership and my two automobile dealerships when it comes to warranty work, the tractor dealership wins by far.

 

[Mosey]

"This problem can cause a failure of the PTO drive countershaft (Part #SBA322570701) and PTO gear (Part #SBA322341330). There solution was for me to purchase a overrunning clutch from them."

This really bothers me! Their solution is to just let it go and install an overrunning clutch and make you pay for it!? I would push back on this one Spencer, they need to fix the problem, not just find a work around.

 

[thcri]

On your battery issue I think I would also maybe put my foot down. The batteries that come with them tractors leak out in part to overcharging and even if you battery is low on fluid it will still leak. I would get some bakeing soda on the areas of the battery to prevent the acid from eating up your radiator and everything else around it. My dealer told me there is nothing less than replacing the battery here to make it work right. He told me he even will say the battery is dead to get a new one. Just my opinion.

murph