Nipping Dog

[ToadHill]

Well about a year ago my daughter got me a Bassett hound puppy to replace my 10 year old bassett that died. He's generally a good dog but within the last couple of months he has taken to counter surfing now & then and when he gets something off the counter and you try to get it back from him he's begun to nip at whoever tries to get the item back. So far he hasn't broken the skin, but I'm sure it will happen if I can't break him of this habit.

This is my third Bassett and I've never had one who is this possessive, any one have any ideas how I can cure him of this.

 

[tallyho8]

My method is probably not reccomended by your local humane society but it has worked for me in the past.

First you have to establish complete dominance over the dog so that he will know for sure who is boss. One way I do this is to immediately act when he nips. I throw the dog on his back and sit on his chest (do not put all your weight on him, just enough to hold him down). I put my hands around his throat applying light pressure and use my arms to hold his front legs back from moving. At no time do I do anything to injure the dog but they will usually fight back violently trying to escape this position and I just restrain them completely holding them perfectly immobile. After a while the dog ceases to fight to escape and gives up, sorta like when the tv cowboy breaks a horse, and I just remain there for a few more minutes before I let him up. The dog will usually go sheepishly on his way and you will usually not have to repeat this procedure.

If it's a large dog, you may want to keep his claws filed well so that you don't get scratched up when you start this encounter.

Don't try this with a dog that you are not able to physically restrain safely for your protection.

 

[jinjimbob]

I agree with tallyho, just not the throat thing.

You have to let the dog know who is the boss, he will actually like that too, he gets less worried about anything, like you are there to protect him.

When our German shepherd used to do that, or do anything very wrong like chase a cat, shout "NO!", I got her down on her side, held my hand over her eyes, she only struggles for a few seconds. After 30 seconds let her up and say good dog.

You have less than one and half seconds to correct your dog, otherwise it hasn't a clue why you are doing what you doing. You also have to do this every single time, yep, for 100 times in a row if that is what it takes. You don't bother one time, back to the beginning.

 

[DocHeb]

First you have to establish complete dominance over the dog so that he will know for sure who is boss. One way I do this is to immediately act when he nips. I throw the dog on his back and sit on his chest (do not put all your weight on him, just enough to hold him down). I put my hands around his throat applying light pressure and use my arms to hold his front legs back from moving. At no time do I do anything to injure the dog but they will usually fight back violently trying to escape this position and I just restrain them completely holding them perfectly immobile. After a while the dog ceases to fight to escape and gives up, sorta like when the tv cowboy breaks a horse, and I just remain there for a few more minutes before I let him up. The dog will usually go sheepishly on his way and you will usually not have to repeat this procedure. Don't try this with a dog that you are not able to physically restrain safely for your protection.

This also works with teenagers.

 

[czechsonofagun]

Airedales are master's of counter surfing and there is way to deal with it. Just get some mouse traps, those old style with the spring and leave them on the counter. When he triggers one he will sure be avoiding that spot. I never had to do this, but there are people owned by an airedale who were force to do this.

 

[pennwalk]

Tally,

There is a dog training book that I like by the Monks of New Skete called How to be your dogs best friend. I think they call that move a wolf roll. It is essential that you be the boss or no one will be happy. It totally amazes me how screwed up some people let their dogs get. I wasn't thinking about anyone here but we have a family member who has totally ruined 2 trainable dogs.

Chris

 

[pennwalk]

This also works with teenagers.

Yeah, but don't forget to growl and bare your teeth.

Chris

 

[davitk]

I like the "sitting on the dog" technique but fear it could be difficult to pull off, what happens if you lose the battle I have always trained my puppies from nipping by grabbing their muzzle tightly, shouting NO BITE! and squeezing until it hurts.

 

[rtimgray]

Sounds like good advice so far. Showing the dog who's boss immediately is probably the way to go.

I've always had an affection for Malamutes. We've had 4 over the course of several years. The first two disappeared during deer seasons (I assume they were shot by hunters), and my wife ran over another accidentally (that was very sad).

The most recent one came from a shelter in Illinois (all of them have come from shelters or pounds). I've noticed two common traits with all the malamute and malamute-mix dogs that we have had:

1. They talk to me (the kind of howl/whine/bark), usuallly when I get home or feed them, but sometimes just when they feel like it.
2. They like to nip and bite me. Seldom hard enough to hurt. They usually have either done this when I'm giving them affection, but sometimes they do it just to get my attention. I assume its a "love bite", so to speak.

Does anybody know of other types of dogs that share these traits, or other strange traits of dogs.

 

[Tig]

My dog once had a difference of opinion with me and I got bit. Didn't break the skin but it really hurt. This next part may seem odd but I had read it recently so I gave it a try. I told the dog to sit and stay! I then sat down in a chair looking over the dog and stared at her. Gave her the evil eye if you like. She would look at me and then look away quickly. After 20 mins I had her come over and sit next to me. I then spoke to her calmly. Typing this out almost makes me laugh because it sounds so silly but I have not had another problem with her.

 

[tallyho8]

I like the "sitting on the dog" technique but fear it could be difficult to pull off, what happens if you lose the battle

If you lose the battle then you get to use your tractor to dig a hole in the back so you can plant the dog where he belongs.

 

[shvl73]

We have a old (16-17yr old) Dalmation that will nip when made to do something or stop some bad behavior. Never is it enough to hurt or break skin, sometimes not even making contact, and I would immediately grab his muzzle firmly and tell him no. It always ended it, until the next time. He is the most stubborn dog I've ever met. Definitely a dominance/ownership thing. Now while he is feebly stumbling around, I just appreciate that he's got that much gusto. We have a younger (5yr old) Dalmation that will gently knaw on my wrist. He does this during play or when I've been gone for days, seemingly for comfort. He also likes to nibble on ears. When I picked him up years ago, I had to tie him in the back of my Explorer just so I could drive. He evidently was glad to be out of the previous home.

 

[pennwalk]

It is a weird concept. When you take on a dog you are setting up a pack and you are learning to talk to you dog in a way that they can understand clearly. The Monks train German Shepards. They have developed techniques like the top wolf uses on the rest of the pack. Makes the dog feel really comfortable because they were made to be in a pack. Makes you feel really happy cause they are good dogs. Waving your hands around and saying no doesn't work that well in my experience but I hope that anybody that I might know who uses that technique doesn't read this or I might end up in the dog house as a pack of one.

Chris

 

[4720 OWNER]

Counter surfing is one of the hardest behaviors to break. It is self rewarding and FUN (for the dog). The rule in our family is NO PEOPLE FOOD, EVER!! The dog does not know what it is missing so less chance of trying it out off the counter, fridge, whatever. The mouse traps work well, do not forget about the garbage can as well. Can put them upside down to lessen the chance of injury or cover them with a sheet of paper (makes a good scary sound). Start feeding the dog from its bowl at supper time. YOU decide when food can be had, just like in the pack. Avoid hitting the dog. It just makes them hand shy. Get them lots of exercise!!!

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Check here Got Puppy Nipping? Take the Clicker Approach | Karen Pryor Clickertraining

Teach "Open your mouth!"

• Prepare a dozen or more tiny treats用ea-sized bits of cheese or chicken, say. Or, for a very small breed of puppy (and sometimes they have very sharp little teeth) a dab of baby food meat on the end of a chopstick.
• Click and treat the puppy two or three times just for coming to you, so he knows that treats are available. Now offer the puppy something tempting to grabé*� toy or a piece of cloth. Click when he grabs it, and hold out the treat. If he lets go to eat the treat, click again. Do not click him if he grabs something you do not want him to grab!
• Repeat this several times, until the puppy quickly drops the object when he hears the click.
• Now start saying "Open" just before you click. Repeat several times. This begins the process of putting "open" on a verbal cue.
• Next, say "Open" and pause. Hold the object quietly (do not pull) until the puppy lets go on his own. At the moment the puppy releases the object, click and treat. Do NOT click until the puppy releases! Remember, click as he lets go, and give him a treat. Repeat.
• Repeat this little lesson later in the day or the next day, until he will drop the object eagerly when you say "Open."
• Keep dry treats and clickers handy whenever the puppy is loose in the room. If he grabs a hand or your clothing become still, then say "Open!" If he lets go, be ready to make a great fuss and give him a special treat. Everyone in the family can learn this cue and use it.

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

In response to those promoting the "dominance / wolf pack / put the dog on the ground" school of dog training" - while this may work - be prepared to be potentially seriously injured if the procedure goes badly.

The technique worked with my 125 Lb Schnauzer, however, it is my observation that in most cases if a dog really intends to bite he will get you and there is little defence. A dogs reaction time is so much faster than the average human you will be bitten before you can even move.

A few days ago, I thought a shake to the scruff of the neck would be an effective training lesson for my 13 week old Schnauzer pup. He decided he didn't want his neck grabbed. It might be surprising to some how much damage a pup with baby teeth can do in less than 1 or 2 seconds.

My suggestion for the OP - If you plan to physically take your dog on, as some have suggested, in an effort to teach him a lesson, unless you are 100% sure of his reaction - don't do it with bare hands / arms etc. Also, before you take him on physically - be aware, no matter what happens to you - the dog cannot be allowed to win the fight.

As with child rearing, the current methods for dog training have evolved past physical dominance practices.

 

[rtimgray]

As with child rearing, the current methods for dog training have evolved past physical dominance practices.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, and you see where that's gotten us

 

[pennwalk]

It has been years but I guess I bought into the Pack concept. Some of my fondest memories are of being out on dawn patrol with the pack. OK... walking in the woods behind the house. I'm not surprised to hear I'm out of date again.

Chris

 

[czechsonofagun]

+1 for clicker training; it is quite amazing what can be accomplished with that.

 

[dmccarty]

I will second the Monks of Skee books. Best dog training books I have seen. They go into the research of puppy socialization and development. Very good.

Dogs are pack animals. Dogs have to have a place in the pack. Dogs settle their pecking order with a bit of fighting/playing. When we brought my wife's goldens together with my GSD we figured my very Alpha female and her very Alpha female would have a go at each other. We watched them very carefully.

Then the younger golden attacked the older golden! Literally there was fur flying. We each grabbed a golden and put them on the ground by the scuff of the neck per the Monks. And then looked at each other with amazement. We did not see this happening. My dog was looking at the scene with this What The H... Was This All About? The dynamics of the pack had changed and the younger golden was making a move for the Alpha position.

The old golden did not have a good leg to stand on. All four legs had problems. She got to a point where if the other dogs got to near her she would growl and nipp at them as a defense. The just left her alone and would look at her like she was nuts. The young golden and my GSD settled who was boss in the backyard with some very physical play.

Putting the dog on the ground by the scuff of its neck is hardly violent and much less physical than what the two goldens were doing and going to do.

You do have to be physically able to put the dog on the ground and hold them there. But if you have them by the scuff of the neck they have a tough time getting up. My GSD only had to be corrected a few times. She learned real quick that if I grabed the scuff of her neck she just laid down. Very smart dog she is.

We adobted a new golden who likes to counter surf. I fnally caught her doing it and put her on the ground. We then had a talk. She has not surfed since. She is however getting into the trash after we leave the house...

I found the Dog Whisperer to really know what he was talking about. If you see his show on TV its informative.

Later,
Dan