No high range

[gryyde84]

Just got my tractor running and it runs great but it appears to have a problem going into high range. It kicks out of gear when I release the clutch. I hope that this is a easy fix.

 

[284 International]

Welcome to the forum. Does everything work fine in low range? When you say it "kicks out of gear" when you let the clutch out, is the gear shift going out of gear, or is it the high/low selector? What model tractor do you have?

 

[winston1]

If this is a 1700 here is a drawing of the range shifter. Could be worn, bent or broken parts here. Also attaching drawing of gears. I believe #4 is your hi/lo sliding gear. Going to have to trouble shoot some. Yanmar Tractor Parts: TRANSMISSION_INTERNAL Yanmar Tractor Parts: SHIFTER

 

[gryyde84]

It is the selector handle all gears work fine in low but the selector feels almost like it needs to travel further up to fully engage for high range I can feel it go in but kicks out soon as clutch is released. My tractor is the ym 1700 this is my first tractor and I have fallen in love with it's simplicity. I purchased this tractor with a cracked head which was off when I got it. I put everything back together just to see if I could in 45 mins with no manual or anything. I just installed another head and upon test drive no high gear.

I hope that whatever the fix maybe that I can go thru the shifter plate to repair.

 

[deepNdirt]

Welcome to TBN & the Yanmar Gang,
I too have the 1700, even though I have not experienced the jumping out of high rang gears while letting the clutch out, I have however noticed at time when putting into gear the tractor will not move, I then notice the H/L range shifter is in middle position.
I concluded that perhaps I'm hitting it with my foot while getting on or off the tractor, which I am not aware of at that time, or it has in fact jumped out while letting out the clutch just as you have stated,I do not actually hear it if it is in fact jumping out, I usually just put it back into gear and its good to go But now that you have mentioned this, it has me slightly concerned on a possible more severe issue in the future
Perhaps another member can give advice to this issue? and thanks winston1 for the link to the parts breakdown, I've saved this for future reference:thumbsup:

 

[284 International]

Gryyde84, I let my brother use my YM240 one day. He told me that something had broken in the transmission, leaving the tractor immobile. I pulled off the top cover where the gear shifter (not the range selector) mounts. I could see that the little bent piece of steel rod that engages the shifter fork (The L-shaped bit of part 22 here: Yanmar Tractor Parts: SHIFTER) had broken off.

It may be possible that yours has bent but not yet broken. (Hoye's description of the part says it's "the most common failure point.") That may keep the fork from sliding far enough to fully engage the gear set for high range. It's simple to pull the cover off, and take a peek. That's a lot safer than trying to cram the lever forward and maybe breaking something.

On mine, sometimes it's a bit easier to shift it between ranges when the tractor is in gear, and the clutch is slightly eased out, just enough to give the transmission parts some motion, then ease the shifter into place as you press the clutch pedal down fully. I'd say pull the cover and take a look-see, it won't take 5 minutes.

 

[gryyde84]

Thanks for all the replies I will take a look at that and see if it is bent. I really feel like that is what's going on cause i simulated putting it partially in low not all the way and it kicked out of low just like high range. So I guess the question now is can it be replaced easily once I remove the cover?

 

[284 International]

It depends on how the gear shafts are in your box. Someone will chime in here who knows vastly more than me (it's not difficult!) but you'll definitely be able to tell if it's a simple fix or a complicated one straight away.

Pull the cover off, it's 4 bolts. Put the shifter in neutral, and pull the shifter and cover off. Take a picture, mental or otherwise, of where the gears and their shift collars are, to correspond with the gear shifter in the neutral position. It will make your life easier.

Check on the condition of the lever. If needed, unscrew the shift lever that you grab. There's a small bolt that goes into a retaining plate. Pull the bolt out, and the plate from the groove on the body. Push/tap on it, and it will slide into the transmission. It's about 2 inches or so long, so be ready to catch it. It might hang up on a shaft before it comes all the way out; hopefully someone else will know. You can at least get it out enough to see if things are bent.

It will be a quick check, really. The job this far is easy; if it hits on a shaft, as my YM240 did, I personally can't help. I don't know how to get it out from there intact, or back in. Hopefully you're luckier than me! Give it a try, and let us know what you discover. Pictures are always good. :thumbsup:

 

[California]

I think two different owners recently posted photos looking straight down into YM2000 transmission, with the shift cover removed. Can somebody post links in this thread to display those photos right here?


284, what did you do after determining that part won't come out?

 

[284 International]

California, I'm embarrassed to say, because it isn't a proper fix. My tractor's lever had been booger welded on at some point, and even though I ground the weld down, I broke the lever off the body trying to unscrew it. I ground the protruding shifter lever smooth, then pushed the assembly back to where it would normally sit, then took a skinny cutoff wheel on an angle grinder and chopped off about 5/8 of an inch. Then I pushed it through and out of the housing. The shorter overall length allowed it to come out of the transmission housing.

I used a magnetic pickup stick to fish around and find the broken-off piece of the lever. I ground the body of the lever flat and square, then drilled a hold in the center of it, most of the way through. Then I welded an M8 nut over the hole, and ran a tap down the hole, and finished by welding the broken off angled rod back on, and got a little more weldment built up (It had fractured the weld).


I put the repaired assembly back in. It all lined up ok. Then, I found a cheap 13mm box end wrench in my loaner tools, and put it on the welded nut, then put a washer between that and the bolt head. When everything was tight, the wrench was clamped to the body of the shifting selector, and became the new handle. So now, instead of a proper lever to select high and low range, I have a cheap Chinese 13mm box end wrench.:confused2:

Like I said, not at all a proper fix!:laughing: I'm still assembling all the parts I need to properly resurrect this old heap into a (moderately) safe machine; these components are one more!

 

[California]

Very clever!

I think after 30 years, OEM parts are best but shop-made replacements are ok too if they are just as solid as original.

It sounds like you made a solid replacement. If that were mine, I would just put it in service and enjoy using it!

 

[284 International]

I actually prefer the height and angle of the wrench handle: it clears up a little bit of swing-through room for my feet. I'm suspicious I'm a smidgen larger than the Japanese farmers and engineers who originally designed these things. I'll take some pictures of my field-expedient repair if anybody cares, I just thought it was fairly horrifying, and the type of thing that would make me avoid purchasing a tractor.

Here are some pictures of the top of the transmission in another thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/113326-trans-shifting-problem-240d.html

 

[284 International]

Here's a picture of what I ended up doing as a temporary fix for mine. As I said, it's embarassing, but I remember specifically criticizing some other farm-expedient fixes in an earlier thread, so it's only fair to do the same to myself:

That's the wrong bolt in it; I've put a shorter one in since so it doesn't protrude as far. There's a nut welded onto the shaft that accepts the box end of the wrench. The bolt goes through the nut into a tapped hole in the shaft (It was tricky to get the threads to align on both those things when welding it) and then the washer and lock nut hold the wrench onto the nut. It's actually a good setup, aside from the aesthetics.

And before anybody says it: I've got a boot for the shifter on the way; it's parked in a shed with a tarp over it. I'm too much of a wimp to use it in the rain, so water leakage isn't an issue.

 

[silvertramp]

PRETTY SPORTY, PRETTY SHARP!

 

[winston1]

Ingenuity at its best.

 

[284 International]

I did it this way so that when/if the repair fails, I can easily access it again. I was nervous that there was some other problem too, that caused it to bind or something. So far that doesn't seem to be the case.

I wanted the OP to know that these are highly repairable machines, that take only a small bit of skill and time to get back operating, so long as it's not a major, deeply internal problem. Then you should at least have some directions or a diagram or something....:laughing:

 

[deepNdirt]

I did it this way so that when/if the repair fails, I can easily access it again. :

you shouldn't have any problem finding the wrench
I've done my share of improvising as well :thumbsup:

 

[284 International]

Gryyde84, have you made any headway yet?

 

[California]

I've done my share of improvising as well :thumbsup:

Me too. I have had this 'hack' on my YM240 so long I forgot about it. This bungee assists the weak detent spring/ball to stay in high range.

I took the bungee off when I bought the tractor to see what would happen. Nothing, until I was roading it fast down a rough dirt lane. When the driveline went slack lurching over a bump it slipped to Neutral a couple of times over a couple of months. That was scary going downhill. I put the bungee back on.

The hook slides down to the nut when the lever is forward (low range) so it has no effect there and doesn't tug the lever upward.

In seven years using this it hasn't jumped out of gear yet. Someday if I have to split the tractor I'll replace the detent spring/ball parts to get it right. Meanwhile - this simply works.

284 - I saw you were online and just remembered this, so I just now went out in the dark and took the picture.

 

[284 International]

That's a great treatment for that problem! I'd never get 7 years of life out of a rubber bungee like that around here. The ozone and heat in this area makes them crack and dry-rot. If it ever sees sunlight, it's even worse. Maybe if I didn't buy the cheapest Harbor Freight bungees I would have better luck.....