No idea what year this Backhoe is

herringchoker · Mar 27, 2011

gammer....I have the manual for the 4-speed power reversing transmission.

The troubleshooting guide for "No drive in any gear" is:
a. Hydraulic clutch not applying.
b. Broken shifter forks.
c. Broken front or rear input shaft, output shaft or traction coupler.

Do you have no drive in both forward and reverse? I'm wondering if you got some crud in the oil distributor or in one or both of the hydraulic clutches.

P.M. me and we'll figure out how to get a copy of the manual to you.

gammer · Mar 27, 2011

Tks, herringchoker, :drink:

I went out and started it figured try it with the tranny cold, The shuttle shift is jammed in neutral now to. doh!

Gale Hawkins · Mar 27, 2011

gammer said:
Tks, herringchoker, :drink:

I went out and started it figured try it with the tranny cold, The shuttle shift is jammed in neutral now to. doh!

That could be positive. If it can not shift to R or F there is no reason to think it more major than the shifting fork or some other linkage issue.

Let us know what you find after you get the fluild back up to the FULL mark. Nothing will be meaningful in trouble shooting a hydralic based system until it is full of fluid.

herringchoker · Mar 27, 2011

So it's the F-N-R lever on the left of the steering wheel that is stuck in neutral? Is this with the motor idling? If so, check to see that the linkage between it and the transmission is not bound up. If it is OK, there may be a problem with the blocker valves. The blocker valves are on the F-N-R control valve inside the transmission and prevent engaging F or R when the motor is revved up above 1200 - 1500 RPM.
I tried to scan the relevant pages out of the manual, but my scanner won't co-operate. Sorry.

p.s. Check your P.M.

gammer · Mar 28, 2011

Awesome tks :thumbsup: herringchoker,
looks like the block valve is on my agenda.

gammer · Mar 31, 2011

Tks herringchoker,

That was awesome pics, it help alot. I just moved it today now I have a leak around the bell housing. It's going to be a big job no matter. The cab needs to come off I can't get the fuel tank or the cover off until I do. It seems to me there is a blockage in the tranny some where to have a leak like this, usually a seal leak drips over a period of time this just started out of the blue, and it's a steady leak. hard to find a good manual online wondering if there is revision of the manual . need to find a hoe and loader manual as well for removal. buy some extra Tylenol lol...

:thumbsup:

Gale Hawkins · Mar 31, 2011

gammer did you just add fluid to get it to move.

If it was mine and I thought it was a blockage I would personally dump in .5 gallons of Sea Foam.

I put a in a quart twice and it cleared out the milky look after the second quart. When hot the forward hydralic clutch was very slow start pulling. It had improved with use so before the Sea Foam use because I had to back it home the first day I tried to use. It would just slip in first gear going forward.

It got to where it was usable forward in low range before the Sea Foam use but the last time I used it after it was hot it would kill the motor in high gear shifting forward in high range if the motor was not rev'ed enough.

That is a reverser test in the JD 310 factory manual where it is to kill the engine in like four seconds when engaged in high range (5-8th).

Note: I buy Sea Foam by gallon and add it to most any fluid in any vehicle.

gammer · Apr 1, 2011

I didn't put any fluid in it yet, I moved it using the hoe. I purchased 2 bottles of sea foam today, 475 ml you can't buy the large bottles, if it is blocked somewhere it would be on the high pressure side, I hope this works. Would anyone know the weight of the cab for removal, trying to figure out the best way if it does need to come off. Would a pressure test on the tranny be any benefit to me at this time.

tks Gale for the info :thumbsup:

gammer · Apr 6, 2011

Bought four bottles of sea foam the other day put it in and let it idle for awhile with no success, doh! worth it though took that milky look out of it. I removed the fuel tank and shroud and steering column, removed the block valve and took a magnet and popped out the blocker valves and voila shaft moves freely...
now what does this mean I took the block apart and cleaned it blew air threw all the ports on the tranny has well. got pics of the blocker valve. ? I put the valves back in the holes and the shaft would not move until I removed them, shouldn't the shaft move when the motor is shut off. I'm stumped Any suggestions

tks for all the help:drink:

Gale Hawkins · Apr 7, 2011

Thanks for the update and photos. Glad the Sea Foam addressed your moisture problem. I would not expect Sea Foam to help with any sticking valves until after working the BH 20-40 clock hours which is not possible since yours will not move.

Did you pull PSI readings at all of the test points to see if any were out of spec? It sounds like you may have something preventing fluid from reaching the block. What kind of flow will the open lines produce on a quick start up and shut down?

You really are going to determine where you have/do not have the correct PSI readings at all of the test ports. Our JD shop manual has them labeled and min PSI readings.

If you had a helper you could just open test ports one at a time with the engine off and then start it up with a hose on the test port to check for flow. I would not advice this but to purchase a gauge set that can read upto 3000 PSI and test it right.