No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP!

   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I now see your point about the battery...The RPM to generate spark. But like I said, it spins fast and even faster without spark plugs.
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#12  
:welcome: to TBN from Ohio.sounds like a bad coil

Hello Murph,
I agree but like I said, its brand new. Are those readings across the two secondary wires up to snuff ? (14.52 on 20K scale)
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP! #13  
You said "One Coil" was replaced. A twin cylinder has two coil packs. Each has a wire coming from it the attaches to the spark plug. The air gap between each and the flywheel is .10 thousands. You are correct in the white wire is usually the kill wire on a Kohler. I would suggest removing the sparks plugs attach one of the ignition wires for one of the plugs, clamp the plug to a metal surface with vise grips and spin the engine over with the starter. If you don't get a good spark the coils are bad or grounded. It is a very simple electronic circuit, the magnet in the flywheel moving across the two post on the coil generates a spark. Another thing to consider. When you replaced the flywheel did you get the key back in the keyway. If not the unit is out of time and will spark incorrectly at the spark plug.
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP! #14  
If no spark when cranking with kill wire off and plugs out and .010 gap, than coil is bad. In 25 years of service I have never checked an electronic coil with an ohm meter. if the above is done that was the test. Only difference I have seen is when someone would install the coil upside down (usually on a Briggs).
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#15  
You said "One Coil" was replaced. A twin cylinder has two coil packs. Each has a wire coming from it the attaches to the spark plug. The air gap between each and the flywheel is .10 thousands. You are correct in the white wire is usually the kill wire on a Kohler. I would suggest removing the sparks plugs attach one of the ignition wires for one of the plugs, clamp the plug to a metal surface with vise grips and spin the engine over with the starter. If you don't get a good spark the coils are bad or grounded. It is a very simple electronic circuit, the magnet in the flywheel moving across the two post on the coil generates a spark. Another thing to consider. When you replaced the flywheel did you get the key back in the keyway. If not the unit is out of time and will spark incorrectly at the spark plug.

This motor has one coil/ power pack that has dual magnetic pick ups. The air gap is correct and the key is in possion (this would throw the timing off but would still generate a spark out of time)
I'm annoyed because I am back to square one...Is it the coil or do I have another weak flywheel magnet. The new magnet feels just like the old one.
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP! #16  
What is the model of mower you have and serial #. Scag's website has a really good electrial schematics. It dont show nothing on the motor, with will at least let us see the mower side of the wiring...
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#17  
If no spark when cranking with kill wire off and plugs out and .010 gap, than coil is bad. In 25 years of service I have never checked an electronic coil with an ohm meter. if the above is done that was the test. Only difference I have seen is when someone would install the coil upside down (usually on a Briggs).

Thanks, That was was my thinking as a bad magnet would seem pretty odd, much less twice. Now I have to try for a refund on an electrical part - an impossible task!
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP! #18  
This motor has one coil/ power pack that has dual magnetic pick ups. The air gap is correct and the key is in possion (this would throw the timing off but would still generate a spark out of time)
I'm annoyed because I am back to square one...Is it the coil or do I have another weak flywheel magnet. The new magnet feels just like the old one.

I think the magnet is probably fine.
One trick I use sometimes, I set the test up just before dark, and I do the actual test in the dark so I can see any stray sparks. Usually I don't have to resort to such measures, but I will routinely do this on a vehicle to assess the state of the wires and wire routing.

I started that as a kid...and dad's cars would put on a heck of a light show sometimes.
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#19  
What is the model of mower you have and serial #. Scag's website has a really good electrial schematics. It dont show nothing on the motor, with will at least let us see the mower side of the wiring...

Its a Scag Super Z - Model SSZ 18KH - Ser #30282
 
   / No Kohler spark...EVERYTHING replaced - HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#20  
I think the magnet is probably fine.
One trick I use sometimes, I set the test up just before dark, and I do the actual test in the dark so I can see any stray sparks. Usually I don't have to resort to such measures, but I will routinely do this on a vehicle to assess the state of the wires and wire routing.

I started that as a kid...and dad's cars would put on a heck of a light show sometimes.

Yup...Been there done that. The wires are part of the new coil and have not been routed anywhere yet so I'm sure they are fine.
 

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