No more plastic drain valve for me!

[JTKub]

How did you ever get that elbow in there ?

It's all in the first post of this thread (unbolt and lift the engine). I was able to lift my engine JUST enough to install the short nipple and elbow into the engine block & still clear the frame. The driveshaft was hitting the top of the tunnel. It's an easy mod and only a few dollars of pipe fittings. Add another $20 or so if you want a fumoto drain valve on the end. I don't see how using copper would make the job any easier. You still have to lift the engine to get the 'factory' quick drain out of the block.

Joel

 

[LBrown59]

That's similar to what my 1864 has from the factory.

Nice job!

Make a kit. Sell it

Bandaid's included!

-Larry

It would have been simpler to install it before the motor was installed on the tractor.

 

[LBrown59]

It's all in the first post of this thread (unbolt and lift the engine). I was able to lift my engine JUST enough to install the short nipple and elbow into the engine block & still clear the frame. The driveshaft was hitting the top of the tunnel. It's an easy mod and only a few dollars of pipe fittings. Add another $20 or so if you want a fumoto drain valve on the end. I don't see how using copper would make the job any easier. You still have to lift the engine to get the 'factory' quick drain out of the block.

Joel

I was thinking with sweated copper fittings you wouldn't have to rotate the elbow;but you're rite removal of the quick drain still presents a problem.

 

[JSharp]

My 2554 has a similar setup from the factory. They use a shorter nipple from the elbow to the drain valve and still use the plastic drain valve.

JT's setup is nicer. Higher quality parts and even easier access.