No oil pressure in 224 (under 5 hrs.)

[RonMar]

Unfortunatly Greg, what I missed in my initial suggestion a few months back is that the 200 series uses a different oil sump(pan) than in the tech manual. It has thicker re-enforced sidewalls and a cover plate that covers the entire bottom. It is used as a structural member to join the main frame rails and the front of the tractor to the rest of the tractor. In my forays under my tractor, I thought they were bolted to the block and not the sump. Unfortunatly, unless there is some trick to get the mounting tab on the oil pump to clear the thicker sump sidewall, I think this is now a major operation to get the oil sump out of the way far enough to get the oil pump out.

 

[greg_g]

Hmm...the two JM254s I owned didn't have a conventional oil pan either. The sides of the sump were part of the block, but the bottom was a flat removeable plate with cooling fins. I could actually remove that plate with the driveshaft in place. But I don't remember where the pump was in relation to the driveshaft, hence my suggestion that the shaft housing might need to be dropped. Either my memories are fading (the Jinmas are long gone) or there's been an engine mod that I didn't keep current with.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

He can get the cover off OK, it is the mounting tab that holds the oil pump in place that is the problem. It points toward the right side of the engine when installed and has a bolt up through it into the block. With the re-enforced sidewalls of the sump turned structural member, that tab protrudes well back into a notch in the sidewall(3/4"?) of the sump. I am guessing that notch was just cut big enough to clear the oil pump mounting bolt head. He can only lower the pump a little ways and since it sticks up into a hole, he can't shift the lower pump inboard or twist it enough to get that tab to clear.

 

[greg_g]

Thanks for clarifying. I was reading the situation wrong I guess.

//greg//

 

[Momboy007]

Hello All,
With only having 5 Hours on this machine, Wouldn't it be covered under some type of warranty??
This just seems plain wrong not to be covered
Thanks,
Rick

 

[jinmaman]

Unfortunately, a bunch of neighbors got together and we ordered a container of tractors and loaders direct for our small farms since no one was in our area. Therefore we are the warranty providers. Overall the tractors and loaders have been good with only minor issues that we could solve our self. This has been the only unit that caused us a problem and we need to fix it. I am going to have another look tonight and hopefully I have missed something that will allow the pump to be removed without a complete disassembly.

 

[jinmaman]

Success!!!

With some persuasion the oil pump is out. In the end with some jiggling of the assembly it was some thicker than needed castings on the block and the pump that were creating the problem. Once this material was removed it slid out.
But, the pump is completely shot. When the washer jammed, the impeller locked the pump shaft and the pump housing torqued and cracked at the top, twisted the internal shaft and broke the pump gear. The cam continued to spin on the gear resulting in metal particles being distributed through the engine.
I now have to check everything as the cam looks overheated and there may be some scratches in the cylinders.

In short this is what may now need doing :
1. Disassembly of top end to replace cam
2. Replace pistons, rings and sleeves
3. Replace connecting rod bearings


What are your thoughts.

 

[Soundguy]

Send a thankyou note to the kind workers that gave you that nifty extra washer? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Yikes... how much is a new engine vs the rebuild?

Soundguy

 

[MrFixit]

I think you mentioned a bunch of guys got together and purchases a bunch of stuff. How many 224s did you get?

Would it be worth it to buy a new tractor off one of the good dealers found on this site and keep the damaged one for parts. The engine sounds toasted. This way you and your buddies will be stocked for many years to come.

Just my thoughts on this tragic situation.

Tim

 

[JohnS]

Assuming this is still under mfg warrenty, weigh the cost of shipping a new engine vs the cost of rebuilding. The engine can be sent in a single crate, via loose frieght, and not required to order a half or full container. Based on my loose frieght bill for 5 crates (tractor, hoe, fel, cultivator, chipper) a few years ago, I would expect it to be around $200-$400. Yes, you have to go through the hassle and wait again. And since it is an engine, there is probably new epa form to do, but you should be familiar with that from your initial order. Typically a dealer/importer would be placing an additional order which the warrenty engine shipped on.

Even if you have to go ahead and do the rebuild based on customer/neighbor needs this ASAP, I would explore getting the warrenty engine. If for anything else, but to help compensate for all this lost time.