No Spark to plugs...please read and help
- Thread starter nj82tj
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Yes, it has ran with its current set up (to include the new coil). The last time it ran was about 2 weeks ago. It fired up with no hesitation at all and I let it run for about 45 minutes. I think I stalled it out when I was working the throttle though and since then it has not run.
Soundguy
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Sorry.. but that's simply incorrect here in this application.
a napa ic14 / SB coil is a native 12v coil. requires no resistor.
you are evidently thinking of a later 65+ 3 cyl design that used a 6v coil, 12v system, and a resistor wire. during starting, the coil got full voltage int he start position.. once started, in the run position, the coil rcvd power thru the resistor wire.
this system is NOT like that... 4 cyl fords 53-64 are my specialty... got dozens of them in the barn. they were all 6v gas, or 12v if diesel, ( 1959 ) from the factory.. no 12v start / 6v run jobs oem...
soundguy
Soundguy
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I agree with DR dave. when you see a system that tries to start the moment you let off the starter.. it usually menas low power to the coil.
wow.. 8.5-9v atr the coil.. that's pretty low!! I would think it should be more like 10v.
double check your wireing to make sur ethere are no hidden resistor or resistor wire feeding it.
here another test you can do.
got a spare battery? hotwire the coil from a spare car battery.. or lawnmower battery.. ie.. ground the battery to chassie, and run hot wire to coil primary.. now crankt he tractor over.. see if spark is hotter and she starts. post back
crlytlfrm
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Have you double checked your point gap?
Jerry/MT
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Look, the OP said he had the requisite FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK at the coil high tension lead indicating that the primary ignition circuit IS NOT THE PROBLEM! Generally the starter will pull a 12V battery voltage down to 10V+/_ during a start so that's not anything abnormal.
IF, with the points closed and the key on, the the primary voltage at the coil terminal is less than the battery voltage OP should not be seeing the FAT, BLUISH -WHITE SPARK that he claims to be seeing due to an abnormally high resisitance in the primary circuit. So either he has the the requisite spark and the problem is in the high tension system downstream of the coil, OR he doesn't have the requisite spark at the high tension lead and his problem is in the primary circuit.
Can't have it both ways.
You can eliminate part of the primary circuit by jumping the coil to battery directly and then checking the spark or trying a start. Or, if you have a spare battery or a vehichle with a 12v system as Sounder suggests, you can jump from it directly to the coil and eliminate the starter drawdown and the primary ignition circuit to the coil.
IF, with the points closed and the key on, the the primary voltage at the coil terminal is less than the battery voltage OP should not be seeing the FAT, BLUISH -WHITE SPARK that he claims to be seeing due to an abnormally high resisitance in the primary circuit. So either he has the the requisite spark and the problem is in the high tension system downstream of the coil, OR he doesn't have the requisite spark at the high tension lead and his problem is in the primary circuit.
Can't have it both ways.
You can eliminate part of the primary circuit by jumping the coil to battery directly and then checking the spark or trying a start. Or, if you have a spare battery or a vehichle with a 12v system as Sounder suggests, you can jump from it directly to the coil and eliminate the starter drawdown and the primary ignition circuit to the coil.
Soundguy
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dizzy wasn't snatched out of this machine was it?
with #1 on tdc comp stroke.. is the rotor pointing at the tower going to that plug?
has dizzy been repalced.. or parted together.. perhaps another advance? advance from the 00 to the naa are IIRC not compatible..
with #1 on tdc comp stroke.. is the rotor pointing at the tower going to that plug?
has dizzy been repalced.. or parted together.. perhaps another advance? advance from the 00 to the naa are IIRC not compatible..
Dr Dave
Platinum Member
Good ideas, to try another battery, hooked up to coil and engine ground.
If this does not work, maybe new coil has an issue. I am not familiar with this coil. How can it provide enough voltage at normal crank voltage of 10.5 to 12V, and operate at run voltage of 13.5 to 14V and not overheat?
I read on anouther forum, that NAPA has 2 of these coils, US and China models, one has issues! Which do you have?
Good luck, keep at it!
Dave
If this does not work, maybe new coil has an issue. I am not familiar with this coil. How can it provide enough voltage at normal crank voltage of 10.5 to 12V, and operate at run voltage of 13.5 to 14V and not overheat?
I read on anouther forum, that NAPA has 2 of these coils, US and China models, one has issues! Which do you have?
Good luck, keep at it!
Dave