No-start Crapman

[General Lee]

I say its the carb. Although there isn't much to push mower carbs, I've seen carb problems that aren't apparent to the eye. I'm sure you know carbs are sensitive to the slightest debris or a cause from old stale fuel. Have you verified the carb is getting fuel? Put some fuel in the carb or have someone spray starter fluid while you try and start it.

 

[JDgreen227]

I say its the carb. Although there isn't much to push mower carbs, I've seen carb problems that aren't apparent to the eye. I'm sure you know carbs are sensitive to the slightest debris or a cause from old stale fuel. Have you verified the carb is getting fuel? Put some fuel in the carb or have someone spray starter fluid while you try and start it.

Thanks for advice, I have noted in earlier posts that I know it is getting fuel...the carb is clean, if you do the recommended 3 pushes of the primer for a cold start and then remove the plug you can smell and observe the gasoline on it, and I tried starter fluid, and putting a small amount of gasoline in the cylinder instead of using the primer and still not a pop. I am going to switch out the magneto to a newer one of the same type today...I cannot understand why this engine will not start. Oh yes, I have replaced the fuel line and also verified the float bowl is getting fuel by trying to drain that by loosening the bowl nut a few turns.

 

[jobguy]

When you take the Carburetor apart you may find that the rubber parts are deformed and deteriorated to some extent. Carburetor rebuild kits are inexpensive and solve many problems caused by today's fuels.

 

[JDgreen227]

When you take the Carburetor apart you may find that the rubber parts are deformed and deteriorated to some extent. Carburetor rebuild kits are inexpensive and solve many problems caused by today's fuels.

Already took the carb apart and it is FINE and the only rubber/vinyl parts used in the older Tech 195cc are the float bowl gasket and primer bulb. Neither of which would stop fuel from getting to the cylinder and it is getting fuel. I am really starting to wonder if when the blade hit the rock it TWISTED the crankshaft vertically enough to throw off the timing. And there is no way to adjust that.

 

[General Lee]

JD- It sounds like you went through everything very thoroughly. I'm curious as to what the problem is. Let us know what you find out changing out the key.

 

[Oaktree]

Could the magneto (or whatever it's called these days) have been disturbed when she hit the rock...maybe a little too much gap between it and the flywheel.
Found a string trimmer at the dump a couple years ago that wouldn't start...that's all that was wrong with it.

You also mentioned the rope pulls a bit hard...did you check to see that the safety handle didn't get out of adjustment, maybe it's not fully releasing & the kill switch is still off.

 

[JDgreen227]

Could the magneto (or whatever it's called these days) have been disturbed when she hit the rock...maybe a little too much gap between it and the flywheel.
Found a string trimmer at the dump a couple years ago that wouldn't start...that's all that was wrong with it.

You also mentioned the rope pulls a bit hard...did you check to see that the safety handle didn't get out of adjustment, maybe it's not fully releasing & the kill switch is still off.

Thanks....and should have said flywheel brake fully retracts and it must be ok because it gets a good blue spark at plug when pulled over. Flywheel/magneto gap is spot on at .0125 spec. Cannot find any damage to anything anyplace.

 

[murphy1244]

On a small rotary mower engine like this one, the flywheel is at the top of the crankshaft and held into place by a soft metal key which is designed to shear if the mower blade hits an object. The flywheel itself is almost impossible to damage unless you drop it once it is removed from the crankshaft. Timing is spot on with the new key I installed although it was a few degrees off when the key sheared originally. I am going to swap out the magneto with the one on my newer Yard Man pusher to see if that makes any difference. As for starting fluid...rather hard to spray it into the carb intake while pulling the starter rope and holding the handle at the same time. I could probably pull the plug and squirt some in and reinstall the plug and try that...still, seems to me if this mower wanted to start it would at least fire once in a while but it won't even pop once.

Not so, I've had a backfire on a rototiller and damaged the keyway and would not start.

 

[radioman]

Try starter fluid and see what happens

I was gonna say the same thing. For ANYTHING that runs on gas that won't start, I just spray starter fluid in it. I dont care if it flooded, not getting gas, getting gas, or what have you.

I had a similar problem on a 5 hp briggs and stratton engine, and I took it apart to clean and soak in carb cleaner overnight it still wouldnt start. Took carb to a local shop and an old man looked at it and blew out the ports and pickup. said, there's water in it. . I never had it near water or anything. anyways - sure enough after I reinstalled it, it starts. :laughing:

 

[General Lee]

JD- did you ever get the thing running? I thought about this thread the other day when I was working on my push mower. Its was running like crap, engine was loping. Appeared to be a fuel issue. If I overrode the governor linkage the engine ran fine. I removed the carb, fuel tank and cleaned both. Replaced spark plug and air filter and she fired up first pull and purred like a kitten.