Not sure how to level a large area

[normde2001]

"As you approach a high spot, the front wheels of the tractor go up first, making the box blade dig in deeper and scoop up a box full of dirt. Then when the back wheels track over the high spot and the front wheels are heading down hill, the box blade goes up in the air and empties its load at the top of the hill."

The only thing one needs to know about using a box blade is when to raise and lower the blade. Once you get that down, it's a no-brainer. You have to learn how long it takes the blade to rise and drop, and anticipate whether you need to raise and lower and how much, depending on what you see in front of the tractor.

 

[ovrszd]

I run a grader on 50 miles of improved gravel roads plus another 10 miles of dirt roads. 3 or 4 times a year residents will ask me if I can do a project for them. I almost always comply. I won't take on huge projects but yours certainly isn't that. I could build your area like you want it in about 30 minutes.

So, I'm not sure how "rural" your area is, but you might ask around and see who maintains your gravel roads. They might help you with this little project.

As to the above discussion about grader wheelbase length. The original idea was for blade control. The secondary gain was better manueverability of the blade. The new JD 770CH that I run can cut a ditch with all wheels on the roadbed. It can slope a bank while driving on the flat roadbed. It will turn around in a circle tighter than my new Jeep Wrangler. It can sideshift the blade completely out from under the machine and lift it above the tops of the tires. All with the simple combination of a steering wheel and nine levers. It's an amazing piece of equipment and the blade is as simple for me to control as leveling a little pile of sand with my hand.

Short of buying a $200K grader, Radad's concept of building some gauge wheels for a box blade is a good choice!!!

 

[Soundguy]

Ditto on blade maneuverability. Our grader operators have used the blade to 'limb' annoying trees that are real close to the road.. just run the blade out o the side, and rotate up, and then shave the limb of fthe trunk with a forward rotation on the blade carrier.

Soundguy

 

[KubotaTerry]

"As you approach a high spot, the front wheels of the tractor go up first, making the box blade dig in deeper and scoop up a box full of dirt. Then when the back wheels track over the high spot and the front wheels are heading down hill, the box blade goes up in the air and empties its load at the top of the hill."

The only thing one needs to know about using a box blade is when to raise and lower the blade. Once you get that down, it's a no-brainer. You have to learn how long it takes the blade to rise and drop, and anticipate whether you need to raise and lower and how much, depending on what you see in front of the tractor.

I figured that was the key, but I have trouble seeng the "lay off the land" when I'm on the tractor. I guess I just have to go much slower so I can react when the box starts to dig in.

Terry

 

[Soundguy]

Identify the high areas from a fixed offsite reference, then denote the high and low spots with marks, markers or flags.. then as you are on the machinery driving around.. you know if you are in a cut or a fill area. That's how it is done on big jobs... A can of flourescent marker paint is only a few bucks... a plus sign or a minus sign on an area lets you know if it is high or low. Whether i'm on a 100 ac development paving roads into a new neighborhood and making building pads.. or if I'm at my pasture setting up a pole building.. a few shots of paint or a flag or two help..

Soundguy

 

[Raddad]

When using a box blade you can control the depth of cut more accuratly by changing the top link length. On a fixed box blade, that is one without a hinge on one of the blades. The rear facing blade can control the depth of cut as it slides along when you are going forward. Set the length of the top link so the rear blade is about 1" above the front blade. Changing the top link length will rotate the box blade, changing how much bite you take. This will prevent the front blade from digging in too much when going forward. Change the length for more or less bite to accomidate different soil conditions.

When backing up you can use the same principal to control the amount of bite by rotating the box blade the oppisite direction. Now the front blade limits the dept of cut on the rear blade. Changing the length of the top link is the key. Good luck

 

[ovrszd]

Ditto on blade maneuverability. Our grader operators have used the blade to 'limb' annoying trees that are real close to the road.. just run the blade out o the side, and rotate up, and then shave the limb of fthe trunk with a forward rotation on the blade carrier.

Soundguy

I didn't mention that one because sometimes people think their trees have the right to reach out over the road as long as the trunk is on their side of the fence.

 

[Egon]

blade is as simple for me to control as leveling a little pile of sand with my hand.

Folks, don't quite take this statement literally. The fellow making it is being a little modest about his skills.

There are darned few really good grader operators as it's a difficult machine to control properly.

 

[3RRL]

Well Egon, I guess it depends who makes that statement. LOL...I can see if the guy making the statement suffered from muscular dystrophy, it might be correct....like in my case. On the other hand, I believe ovrszd is a professional grader operator. I get the feeling he's pretty good at what he does? Then for the rest of us, there's the "Hack and Patch" method...at least for me.

One thing I've learned is to go really slow over those areas where you need to tilt, raise, lower to achieve level. I think that is the key to it. Then as things level out, you can go at a moderate pace. I recently added 2 hydraulic cylinders for tilt to compliment the hydraulic top link. Even with them, you still need to make the adjustments frequently while trying to get things level. They make it 100 times easier now and I can do it on the fly, but it still takes a lot of attention and adjusting until you get it.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Mosey, use a field drag dragged behind a rear blade. This lets you shave the high spots and then raise the blade while still dragging the spoil. This simple combination will ease your frustration.
Larry