Not sure how to level a large area

[Mosey]

I don't have a field drag, box blade, or landscape rake, so I finished it up the best I could yesterday. I spent over 3 hours on the 40' x 40' area. I tried hovering the tiller and driving backward while back dragging with the FEL. I tried driving backwards with the rear blade, going straight across both east/west and north/south. I tried going diagonally. I tried going in circles. Part of the problem is the dirt (someone suggested getting better topsoil, by my dirt is my dirt, it's what I have and I can't afford to get new dirt). It clumps and sticks, etc. If I had a pile of dirt and dragged it across with the rear blade, when I came to a low spot I tried raising the blade an inch to let it distribute the pile, but it would just clump up and stick. So, I raised the blade to 2". The pile of dirt still stayed in a clump and it kept dragging it all. I raised it to 3" and it would finally let go, but not in a smooth evenly distributed manner, but in a clump. If it was drier it would help. But, I live in Indiana and it's a damp climate, so I can't do anything about that. I actually lucked out and had about 3 days of sunshine, so it could have been worse. But, clay really holds the moisture, so it just doesn't really ever dry out, unless we have a drought. After 2 hours of total frustration with the rear blade, I finally called it good enough. It has low spots and high spots, but it's as good as the rest of the ground in that area. I really wanted to get it better though.

I've got to come up with something better before I take on the bigger area (150' x 100'). Some suggested I get a box blade and then raise and lower it as I drive along. When the front of the tractor goes up, I would have to raise the box blade to compensate, when the front of the tractor goes down, I would have to lower it. That sounds simple enough. But, I would have to mentally draw a horizontal line for 150' and raise the lower the box blade to stay on that horizontal line as I drive along. I would have to do this while looking behind me. Then, move over 6' and do it again. For a 100' wide area, allowing for some overlap, that would be about 20 passes. If I were able to do this, which seems nearly impossible to me, my neck would be totally stiff!

Maybe I should just till the while thing up just before the rainy season and let the rain level it out?

 

[Soundguy]

a box blade and then raise and lower it as I drive along. When the front of the tractor goes up, I would have to raise the box blade to compensate, when the front of the tractor goes down, I would have to lower it. That sounds simple enough. But, I would have to mentally draw a horizontal line for 150' and raise the lower the box blade to stay on that horizontal line as I drive along. I would have to do this while looking behind me. Then, move over 6' and do it again. For a 100' wide area, allowing for some overlap, that would be about 20 passes. If I were able to do this, which seems nearly impossible to me, my neck would be totally stiff!

Maybe I should just till the while thing up just before the rainy season and let the rain level it out?

That's why people get paid to do this.. it's work.. and takes skill ( practice ) and specialized tools.

I think you will get very poor results by rototilling it all.. then waiting for it to rain. i think you'll have a tank trap after that.. or a bog.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[normde2001]

I can't imagine doing that job without a boxblade, maybe it is as tough as you say without one. If you are going to have to maintain this area, it might be worthwhile to get one, they're not expensive. I look at it as if I am icing a cake with a large butterknife.

 

[Mosey]

I really don't see how a box blade would work either. Recall that part of my problem is the dirt is clay and it never really dries out. If I had a pile of dirt and dragged with the rear blade, when I came to a low spot I tried raising the blade an inch to let it distribute the pile, but it would just clump up and stick. So, I raised the blade to 2". The pile of dirt still stayed in a clump and it kept dragging it all. I raised it to 3" and it would finally let go, but not in a smooth evenly distributed manner, but in a clump. A box blade would have the same problem. I think maybe a landscape rake would be better, since it would keep the dirt sort of tilled up as it goes.

Drier dirt would help a lot. I did a smaller area last year and it was much drier and the dirt stayed much looser and was much easier to work with. But, this year has been wet all summer, lots of rain, and when it wasn't raining it was humid.

 

[PBinWA]

Yup - you need to let the dirt dry out.

Or get one of these (a good excuse to get the 150HP tractor you always wanted):
Suokone Ltd Screw Leveller

Don't forget to check out their meri-crusher while your at the site! A friend of ours has one and it is awesome!

 

[Jay4200]

I've got to come up with something better before I take on the bigger area (150' x 100').
<snip>
Maybe I should just till the while thing up just before the rainy season and let the rain level it out?

It doesn't sound like you are re-grading, but just smoothing the terrain, following the orginal grade. If you are re-grading, you need a bulldozer - tractors make lousy bulldozers.

This is what I would do to smooth the ground: If it is really bad, I'd till it a couple of times. I'd run over the whole thing going up and down, then do it again right/left (at 90 degrees). I might even do a diagonal pass or two. This will rough it in, so you will be left with a good grade, but the ground will be very lumpy.

Let that dry out for a couple of days, then RENT a power-rake (Harley rake) and run your lot over a couple of times at opposed angles with the power rake. You will be left with a perfect surface as flat as the floor in your house in a couple of hours. Seed and roll and you're done.

IMO, the only way to flatten soil, is with a power rake -- I haven't found anything else that really works. It obliterates anything that isn't perfect. A drag (chain-link fence, etc) works OK if you're really close to start with, but for sizable lumps/holes or hard soil, you'll never get anywhere.

Jay

 

[elalexander]

I just recently joined this forum since I bought a used Bolens tractor. To improve my place and make some food plots for deer etc. However, I had another round of heart trouble so I have been reading, writing and playing with this site, as well as with my tractor since I haven't been cleared to return to my regular job yet. First, you guys are great, what a wealth of information, second, I just tried to clear and level an area similar in size. Hey, the guys who do it for a living make it look easy. I didn't even know how to set the three point hitch stuff a few days ago lol.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I really don't see how a box blade would work either. Recall that part of my problem is the dirt is clay and it never really dries out. If I had a pile of dirt and dragged with the rear blade, when I came to a low spot I tried raising the blade an inch to let it distribute the pile, but it would just clump up and stick. So, I raised the blade to 2". The pile of dirt still stayed in a clump and it kept dragging it all. I raised it to 3" and it would finally let go, but not in a smooth evenly distributed manner, but in a clump. A box blade would have the same problem. I think maybe a landscape rake would be better, since it would keep the dirt sort of tilled up as it goes.

Drier dirt would help a lot. I did a smaller area last year and it was much drier and the dirt stayed much looser and was much easier to work with. But, this year has been wet all summer, lots of rain, and when it wasn't raining it was humid.

Mosey, I think you are very close with the equipment you have. I urge you to check on an 8' Field drag. These are not that expensive and are about 100 times as effective as a drag made from chain link fencing. Unless your clay is so wet that it sticks to your hands, this item dragged from your rear blade will roll and pulverize the clumps, speeding drying and distribution of spoil. I have experienced problems similar to yours and the drag has been a good answer for me. Its use does assume you have the ability to drive around forward on the parcel. I have found it best to attach it closely to the blade so that lifting the blade high lifts the drag partially so you can vary its effect as you go on and off the work area. I have also used it from the front bucket backing up as a finishing manuever.
Larry

 

[Mosey]

I did a web search and looked at some Harley rake pictures. As near as I can tell, it's basically a tiller with guide wheels. Maybe I can just put some guide wheels on my tiller? I'll look into field drags also.

 

[MarkV]

Recall that part of my problem is the dirt is clay and it never really dries out. If I had a pile of dirt and dragged with the rear blade, when I came to a low spot I tried raising the blade an inch to let it distribute the pile, but it would just clump up and stick.

Mosey, from what I read the problem is your clay is too wet and you can’t grade wet clay with the type of equipment most of us have. When I have been in your situation I consider patients the key to success. If the clay is sticking to your blade rather than dropping into the low spots you just have to wait until the soil is drier to get the results you want.

To help the drying process I would set my tiller to till the top 2” of soil so air flow will help dry it out. I would stay off the area as much as possible until the “sticky” is out of the clay. With a rear blade as the attachment available I would reverse the blade so the non cutting edge is what I was moving dirt with. At this point I would just want to work the 2” of soil I had loosened up and dried rather than cutting into more soil. That should pull the loose soil off of the high spots and distribute it in the low spots if you don’t set the blade to low. I think a drag of any type works well to remove the small windrows left by the rear blade. I use some sections of angle iron I had but a log, gate, bedsprings or fence section will work well also.

If you still don’t have the results you wanted, repeat the above.

This is a slower method but will work if you have the time to wait for nature to co-operate. There were many other suggestions given that would also work if the rentals, contractors and money is available. Here there are no rentals, contractors are hard to come by and my grading projects aren’t pressing enough to spend the money.

MarkV