Novice wants a MIG, advise ?

[NHEngineer]

I am still researching a MIG. So far, I am sticking with the "name brands" that I know: Lincoln, Hobart (Miller) and Everlast. What I **think** I want is a 110/220 capable machine and
- can use large spools (8")
- capable using flux core in addition to (argon+co2) with wire
- do NOT need stick or TIG capability (already have a Miller stick)
- 10' leads would be nice

So far, considering a Hobart 140, Lincoln 140 (or maybe Lincoln Handy Mig k2185-1?) and Everlast 200ES. Checked a larger Miller / Lincolns locally, the next sizes up almost 2x prices. As mentioned, the Hobart, Lincoln and Miller are sold local, so any "options"/ parts... would be available.

Honestly, I am somewhat frozen by all the specs and features. I'd really like some opinions. This machine is mainly for Hobby use. Thin gauge tubing / thinnish rebar (wire, maybe up to 1/2"). So, trying to stick with a name brand, one that is easy to load spools, adjust and as trouble free as possible.
Perhaps, the ones I mentioned are all about equivalent? But I would appreciate advice from "experts" before buying and having regrets.

First Spike, I'd advise you to stay away from the off brands. Some may work, some may only work for a while. The same could be said of the Miller EconoTig ($3500 at time of purchase). I've had lots of trouble with mine. First the capacitor mounting screws oxidized so bad I had a terrible time getting them out. After that I thought I was home free - for about a month when the motherboard gave up and I had no amp control. Over $300 for another MB convinced me to roll it over into a corner and use a different one (my homemade one). It's been there now for 10 years collecting cob-webs and it can stay there until I die and my sons can decide what to do with it.

I'd recommend a Lincoln. My AC/DC tombstone has been my faithful companion since 1961 and, with a high-freq unit, it still is an adequate TIG for my needs. I 've had a Lincoln MIG since 1985 and I have no complaints.

 

[2manyrocks]

I wonder what a used Millermatic 200 in good condition sells for today compared to what they used to sell for new 15 years ago?

If you are really going to use the welder a lot for a long time, the investment you make today is relative to how much use you actually get out of the machine.

 

[Kschwennsen]

So, I have a Millermatic 211. With it, I've welded sheet metal plate, rebar, angle, channel, I-beam, tubing you name it. I've made cranes and yard décor. It can run on 110 which is what I used to weld the I-beam into place when I removed a support wall. I usually run it on 220. It's a great machine and I've never really had any issues in the last 6 years with it, mainly the tip or nozzle. I use it for hobby like you and not professional use but I have made enough money off of it to pay for itself a couple times over. the nice part about it is that you can just select the wire size and the material thickness and it will choose the proper feed and amps for you, no conversion charts! It can run flux core and has a spool gun option but I find 11lb spools of .035 works best for me and is the cleanest option.

To see some of my work, see my Facebook page below.

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[charliecrew]

Look at the machines from all brands that can switch between 120 and 240 that can output 200 amps. get the brand you are most comfortable with, also you will find out a 15 foot gun will serve you better than 10 foot from experience.

 

[Hammerhead Ted]

Hello Spike56. I'm originally from Abilene, but joined the USMC outta highschool and am now in ID. I am 70 as of today, but despite that I'm going to welding school and should graduate in APR. All that means is that I'm not a pro either, and have little experience. But I do recognize that the previous comments have been excellent.
My recommendations are that if you are gonna weld almost exclusively 3/8" or less, then get a 3/8" rated machine. On the rare occasion that you might weld 1/2", heat the material first w/propane or map gas, NOT oxyacetylene (200 degrees is good). If you are gonna weld 1/2" more frequently than very seldom getta 1/2" capable machine.
Currently, I'm wringing my hands trying to talk myself into spending the money to buy a Miller 255. If not that, then it'll be the Miller 211.
Altho retired, I like doing tractor work for people, and I live smack in the middle of an agrarian community (6 miles north of Middleton). Welding and tractors go together, right? When I get my certificate I'll then be able to do welding for people, too. Good luck, fellow Texan. : )

 

[Electronics tech]

I've been considering Forney. I heard that Home Depot sells them. Does anyone know anything about Forney? Isn't it an old brand, too?

I was considering a Harbor Freight MIG, but I read an article once that said they come with a very short lead.

 

[charlessenf]

- is 110/220 capable
- can use large spools (8")
- able to use flux core
- able to use argon+co2 with solid wire
- 10' leads

Listing the essential characteristics/requirements is a good first step.

I've noticed that the ads often highlight differences - some I never thought of when 'looking.'

On one model, the trigger in the gun not only moves the wire, but energizes it. That is, when the user is 'off the trigger,' the wire in it is (electrically) cold. I assume this is a Safety feature (of Hobart's model(s)?), but may have other benefits I have yet to understand.

So my search includes documenting features and specifications found in MFG product literature to create a comprehensive list of features and benefits - some, even many, of which I may never have thought of - (but) the manufacturers have and deemed necessary and/or worthy of the expense of incorporating into their offerings.

Some, I suspect - like those little LEDs on portable drill drivers may be practically useless embellishments while others, like the ability to regulate torque while screwing is something every fella finds useful at one time or another.

As with any contemplated purchase, determining the world of available features offered by a class or subset of the product helps reduce the likelihood of the "I coulda had a V8 for teh same $$" buyer remorse sever, many, maybe all of us have experienced at one time or another.

I was gifted a Craftsman 12" tilt-table band saw years ago (moment to recall and appreciate that lovely and rather expansive gesture of a loving wife) only to discover that "NOONE" but Sears offered blades for the dammed thing and wound up selling to buy a 14" DELTA to discover how poorly made their newer bandsaws were in some important respects. I digress.

If you take those four 'brand name' machines and document the features and benefits each promotes in their literature such that you can easily see the differences and exceptions. Then, you will have a template for adding the unbranded selections you may come across to see if any have emulated the leaders by incorporating one or many of the features you find significantly beneficial.

You might also want to document the range of accessories available for the models under consideration as well as replacement parts and consumables and document these considerations in a column of their own.

Since so many of the products on "our stores" shelves are effectively imitations of the products we can't afford, and both are often made in the same foreign land if not in the same factory - than the one next door to it, we ought to compare pictures of the welders offered on Amazon or Ali Express. In my experience, it would appear that several of our branded offerings appear to share some of the 'DNA' of their 'dearer' competition - giving me that same nagging feeling about my son's legitimacy every time I see that &@%!* postman come up the drive.

Of course, as she says, "appearances can be deceiving," so I live with that.

Now, you can trust 'the wisdom of the crowd' of course - duly noting that this is a very small crowd - but only you will glean the benefits and suffer any loss the decision brings. So be sure and do the hard work and research up front as well as watch a few Project Farm and similar videos because the technology is as old as the Dickens (well, not the original Dickens maybe) and the improvements have long been widely adopted and (with notable exceptions?) manufactured in the same place by the lowest paid workers Big Money could find.

Do let us know which you chose and, after six months or two of those eight-inch spools of wire, of any regrets and why. We will appreciate honesty and commiserate accordingly.

 

[ddavis317]

I am still researching a MIG. So far, I am sticking with the "name brands" that I know: Lincoln, Hobart (Miller) and Everlast. What I **think** I want is a 110/220 capable machine and
- can use large spools (8")
- capable using flux core in addition to (argon+co2) with wire
- do NOT need stick or TIG capability (already have a Miller stick)
- 10' leads would be nice

So far, considering a Hobart 140, Lincoln 140 (or maybe Lincoln Handy Mig k2185-1?) and Everlast 200ES. Checked a larger Miller / Lincolns locally, the next sizes up almost 2x prices. As mentioned, the Hobart, Lincoln and Miller are sold local, so any "options"/ parts... would be available.

Honestly, I am somewhat frozen by all the specs and features. I'd really like some opinions. This machine is mainly for Hobby use. Thin gauge tubing / thinnish rebar (wire, maybe up to 1/2"). So, trying to stick with a name brand, one that is easy to load spools, adjust and as trouble free as possible.
Perhaps, the ones I mentioned are all about equivalent? But I would appreciate advice from "experts" before buying and having regrets.

Hello, I have a Hobart 210, it has served me well, like a few have said it is better to go bigger most likely there will be a project that will require this. My next welder will be a Miller, I used them on the job and really liked the reliability.

 

[Stampeder]

I am still researching a MIG. So far, I am sticking with the "name brands" that I know: Lincoln, Hobart (Miller) and Everlast. What I **think** I want is a 110/220 capable machine and
- can use large spools (8")
- capable using flux core in addition to (argon+co2) with wire
- do NOT need stick or TIG capability (already have a Miller stick)
- 10' leads would be nice

So far, considering a Hobart 140, Lincoln 140 (or maybe Lincoln Handy Mig k2185-1?) and Everlast 200ES. Checked a larger Miller / Lincolns locally, the next sizes up almost 2x prices. As mentioned, the Hobart, Lincoln and Miller are sold local, so any "options"/ parts... would be available.

Honestly, I am somewhat frozen by all the specs and features. I'd really like some opinions. This machine is mainly for Hobby use. Thin gauge tubing / thinnish rebar (wire, maybe up to 1/2"). So, trying to stick with a name brand, one that is easy to load spools, adjust and as trouble free as possible.
Perhaps, the ones I mentioned are all about equivalent? But I would appreciate advice from "experts" before buying and having regrets.

I have an old (like 50 years old) Lincoln tobmstone, a gas outfit, had a Harbour Freight 120 amp MIG, a Miller AC/DC stick welder gas powered, and now have a Hobart 190 with spool gun. I'm on a ranch so have a wide variety of welding chores. My dad was foreman of the welding department at a shipyard, my brother was a welder at a pulp mill and neither one of them would teach me to weld. I too learned the hard way. The secret of good welding is puddle control and lotssssss of practice. Get yourself the biggest machine you can afford. Make sure you get a gas version of MIG. I have 30 amp twist plugs installed all over the place so I can use my mig almost anywhere. I can weld up to 3/4 thick material. Of course it has to be in multiple passes but it works well. You will find that if you get a spool gun it will be invaluable as you can change the small reels in a minute or two. The big 8 inch reals take more time. I usually leave my 8 inch real in the machine then switch to the spool gun when I'm doing things like cast iron. There is a lot of this around the ranch.
Good luck with you purchase and enjoy the pleasure of being able to repair things yourself.

 

[charlessenf]

I'm going to welding school and should graduate in APR.

Did you get a Senile Citizen Discount on the classes?


In NC the Community Colleges cut the price of classes for Seniors and I tried getting in a Welding Class after seeing the shop they had in Shelby, NC In the one closer to us, they were not scheduling a course - and did not offer a waiting list. I'm not looking for a certificate to weld for others. Rather the experience with the wire feed world. I've a Tombstone now and watched this thread to see what folks were saying about the options 'out there.'

One source is govdeals.com Schools are replacing serious wire feed machines - and they are commanding similarly serious money. But I assume a good used Miller 255 should be worth a bit while a decent discount from retail. Based upon the bidding, lots of folks appear to agree with this supposition,

Might be worth a look.