3-Point Hitch Now what do I do...... was a Landpridce blade question

[Coyote machine]

Look at Surplus center for other possible valves.
You might consider making your cylinder/valve issue inquiry in the hydraulics forum, where people hang that know the answers to this type of stuff.
The GPM of hydraulic flow is important, but you have to know what the total flow is for the entire tractor, AND the remaining fluid GPM for things like a backhoe or rear blade cylinder.

You COULD use your loader, (FEL) joystick valve for the rear blade function, but you'd need a diverter, or similar setup, to control whether the flow goes to the loader or to the rear blade. Ideally, you'd have two pairs of rear remotes, one to control the backhoe when attached, and one to control the rear blade cylinder. (Either way, you will need a control valve to run the rear blade cylinder). In the meantime you can still use the blade manually.
Done right it can get expensive, but less so if you do it all yourself, and just buy the parts.

 

[gladehound]

Don't know what your hydraulic pressure is, but any valve rated for 3000 psi or better will be fine. I had a Kioti LB1914'and the pressure was around 2100 psi. No now have a Kioti ds4510hs and the pressure is around 2500 psi.

 

[VictorW]

As mentioned, 3000 psi would be plenty and I would think 7gals/minute is good. I'm not familiar with the 3054 and the two connections you use for the BH. When you disconnect the BH and you no longer have fluid flow to the BH valves, do you need to turn a valve on the tractor to redirect the hyd fluid flow? Reason for the question is whether you need an open or closed center valve to operate your cylinder. My Kioti BH works on the open center principle where fluid is always flowing through the valve block assembly.

 

[ron45]

Part of why I have so many questions and so few few answers for those helping me is that I've never removed the hoe. A new adventure awaits. Hope to get to that today or tomorrow. Going out to take pics of blade and what I can see w/hoe in place. Also the components I have to, hopefully, assemble the 3pt. hitch. Film @ 6

 

[ron45]

Whoops, forgot the hitch pics....

This is what I have. I came with the tractor and I don't know if anything is not there. There is one item with pillow blocks on either end and it's sort of like a turn buckle. Is that the top link? I have a position contol lever with numbers on it on my right. I assume it's to raise and lower the hitch.

It the hitch parts shot there are two long grey arms about an inch thick with pillow blocks at the ends. The large pins in the blade attachment brackets fit these holes. Another good thing I guess.

Can't thank you all enough for your patience and great help.

 

[ron45]

`Guess I also forgot one was already there. Sorry for the clutter. I think that happened because I clicked some `in line' button. I don't feel like I under stand this process very well.

 

[VictorW]

From your picture, the outer two goldy colored pieces are the lift arm sway links. They mount to the lift arms and to the tractor frame to the outside of each lift arm mount. These keep the implement, in your case the back blade, from moving or swaying to the left or right The next two in are the lift arms. These mount to the tractor where you should have two pins and the other end mounts to the implement lift pins. The third in from each side are lift arm links that attach to the tractor's hydraulic actuated lift and the lift arms themselves. Normally one of these are adjustable so you can tilt the implement up or down from side to side. The center one is the top link. Mounts to the rear center of the tractor just below the hydraulic lift arms and above the PTO shaft. The heavier looking box piece in the center is the draw bar mount that mounts/bolts to the center underside at the rear of the tractor frame. The heavier bar just to the right of the mount is the draw bar itself that goes into the draw bar mount and is held in place by the approximately 1 inch diameter pins with the wire retainers. The front plate on the draw bar mount has one hole where the draw bar can pivot. It's towards the front of the tractor. The rear has three holes allowing you to move/pivot the draw bar so you can pull directly in line or off to each side.

Is there a way you can look at someones tractor or stop at a dealer? Even if it's a different model or other brand, all these parts will become very apparent as to where they go and how they work. By the way, the blade looks nice.

 

[mj007]

What sort of control valve specs would I need to operate that cylinder on the rear blade if I can find something at northern tool? There is a Brand Directional Control valve rated @3000 psi @ 99 bux. I'd prefer a dedicated valve over swaping hoses from the Joy stick if it's financially possible at a figure WAY under 600.00

Ck20 specs call for 7 gpm and 2500 psi

 

[ron45]

Thank you very much Victor. One of the trade offs of living in a very low pop. density area is long trips for nearly anything. I do have a friend who works a the county maintenance yard and he may be able to help with the assy. if I get in trouble. Your description of them will get me most of the way, and, just standing there and looking at the thing in my hand and the tractor may get me the rest of the way.

I got very discouraged this afternoon looking an Brian's fitritehydraulics page. The hitches on those tractors look to me military grade and way out of my price range. I worried that this stuff in the picture would not support that blade properly, but your description gave no indication of inadequacy. Hope I read you right. I'm getting beyond my finances with this endeavor as it is. But I sure would like one of his set ups. Looks like he does very nice work.

How does someone who knows nothing about this stuff get the proper hoses ordered. There are so many fitting options it's quite overwhelming. The valves are fairly straight forward compared to hoses. At this point I don't have enough large mm wrenches to get an idea of the sizes involved. Got plenty of sockets but these are useless on assembled and working hoses.

22mm is my biggest wrench. I can maybe get some help from a neighbor or two If I can catch them at home.

 

[Coyote machine]

You'll have no problem lifting the blade with your 3PH. The capacity is high, so don't worry about it working. (for instance, my DK-40 can lift 2500 lbs. at 24"). I would bet your blade weighs around 6-800lbs. max?
The little welded on chain clips of the 2 lift arms face IN toward each other so a chain can be used, if desired, to keep them from moving apart. Chain optional. The adjustable link, (part 31, see diagram in link below) for the lift arm goes on the right side when facing the back of the tractor.

Surplus center can help you figure out what size hoses and fittings you may need. Give them a call.

Here's a link to the 3PH parts assembly diagram for your tractor model. It is viewed from the top link bracket which bolts behind and below your seat on the rear of the tractor. The lift arms, in this picture are shown from where they attach to the tractor facing away from the back and left side is closest to you, right side is further away.

Click on 'zoom in' and 'grab' the pic as needed with the mouse/hand icon to move it to where you need to see in the dialog box of the diagram.
This should make install as easy as pie.

Ignore that the link says 'error', just click it and get the diagram....

Error