3-Point Hitch Now what do I do...... was a Landpridce blade question

[VictorW]

From his picture, I didn't see an adjustable lift arm link. Just two solid arms. His only adjustments would be the three holes in the bottom of the links.

As far as the lift arms with that V-shaped wire welded on, That end of the lift arm is away from the tractor and inward as Coyote mentioned. I've never needed a chain with the sway links. Your 3pt lift strength is similar to mine and you should have 1500-1600lbs so that blade will be fine. Also, the parts you have will support that load. You don't need a tank to pull a volkswagon.

 

[Xfaxman]

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At this point I don't have enough large mm wrenches to get an idea of the sizes involved. Got plenty of sockets but these are useless on assembled and working hoses.

22mm is my biggest wrench. I can maybe get some help from a neighbor or two If I can catch them at home.

Most of the hydraulic fittings that I work on are not metric. These wrenches are made shorter and thinner for hoses and fittings.

Note the same size on each end and available in SAE or Metric:

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...k-kqR2Q#hl=en&tbm=isch&q=hydraulic+wrench+set

 

[ron45]

Mister C.M, `can't thank you enough for that link. I can see there are some missing nuts and bolts sort of stuff. Some one else pointed out that possibly one of my components is not the right part. I have two of #27 and it looks like one needs to be that group all the way to the right of the diagram. Is that the tilt component several people have mentioned.

My concern was not lifting the blade, but holding in it place so it and be used to good advantage. With out having assembled it yet my impression is there could be a lot of lateral and up and down movement of the whole shebang chain or no chain. This is filtered thru my ignorance of a whole range of related subjects concerning this end of the tractor.

I have a rough idea the procedure to remove the hoe but I need to check on youtube to see if there is a run thru of the operation.

Also I was concerned about the two B.H. supply hoses being hard to get at where they live on the rear axel. Then it occurred to me the other ends are probably quick disconnects. That could make hose selection simpler I think. Please let me know if there are errors in my thinking. Your link to the diagram and your thoughts on the matter have got me thinking `I can do this'. You can't do much more that that for me.... unless you want to spend some time on top of a mesa in New Mexico drinking espresso and overseeing the project.......

Ron

 

[Coyote machine]

From his picture, I didn't see an adjustable lift arm link. Just two solid arms. His only adjustments would be the three holes in the bottom of the links.

The picture, if you're referring to the diagram of the 3PH link assembly, shows 5 holes in the right side lift arm and an adjustable turnbuckle type lift rod, (# 31) that is used to adjust height on the right side. EDIT: Just looked at Ron's actual parts pic, and his lift arms only have 3 holes, and his right side lift rod has 3 holes too- he's missing the turnbuckle lift arm, but his tractor may have been before that part was included in the assembly(?).

As far as the lift arms with that V-shaped wire welded on, That end of the lift arm is away from the tractor and inward as Coyote mentioned. I've never needed a chain with the sway links. Your 3pt lift strength is similar to mine and you should have 1500-1600lbs so that blade will be fine. Also, the parts you have will support that load. You don't need a tank to pull a volkswagon.

Having a tank would be nice though!

Mister C.M, `can't thank you enough for that link. I can see there are some missing nuts and bolts sort of stuff. Some one else pointed out that possibly one of my components is not the right part. I have two of #27 and it looks like one needs to be that group all the way to the right of the diagram. Is that the tilt component several people have mentioned.

You might be missing the 'turnbuckle' lift rod, shown as part #31, but you should still be able to get the 3PH together for use with your blade. I wouldn't worry about it. Your blade has the advantage of hydraulic angling, which lots of blades don't have.

My concern was not lifting the blade, but holding in it place so it and be used to good advantage. With out having assembled it yet my impression is there could be a lot of lateral and up and down movement of the whole shebang chain or no chain. This is filtered thru my ignorance of a whole range of related subjects concerning this end of the tractor.

Unfounded worry. The chain, or bungee cord as shown in the diagram is rarely used, if at all, in real life applications. The weight of the blade and other factors will render it stable- stop worrying!

I have a rough idea the procedure to remove the hoe but I need to check on youtube to see if there is a run thru of the operation.

Also I was concerned about the two B.H. supply hoses being hard to get at where they live on the rear axel. Then it occurred to me the other ends are probably quick disconnects. That could make hose selection simpler I think. Please let me know if there are errors in my thinking. Your link to the diagram and your thoughts on the matter have got me thinking `I can do this'. You can't do much more that that for me.... unless you want to spend some time on top of a mesa in New Mexico drinking espresso and overseeing the project.......

Glad to have instilled more confidence. You CAN do this. One step at a time. Get the hoe disconnected, then do the 3PH and drawbar assembly, THEN figure out what hoses and fittings you need.
break it down into tasks, accomplish each one, then have a couple of espressos for me on the Mesa! How 'bout a picture or two of the view when the project is complete?:thumbsup:

Here's an idea on the hoe removal. Give a call to Michigan Iron & equipment and ask then, based on your tractor model and hoe model what the removal method should be. Tony and his dad Bob are real knowledgeable and friendly. Tell them I sent you - I've bought a bunch of their items over the years.


Ron

If you have time- try shooting us a pic or 2 of the hoe's attachment to your tractor so we can take a close look at what you have, and show us the hose connections at the axle....

In most hoe removals one disconnects the pins from the subframe to hoe frame, uses the stabilizer arms/feet and the bucket to position the hoe, then slowly moves the tractor forward away from the hoe; blocks the hoe subframe with whatever, wood, cinder blocks, then disconnects the quick connect hoses, (after shutting the tractor off). Then slowly move forward until hoe and tractor are separated. Sometimes one has to be careful to not go too far with the hoses connected to the hoe, depending on how much slack is available. Go slow, be careful.

 

[Coyote machine]

Here's the subframe assembly of the backhoe(s) that fit your tractor model. I suggest studying where the large pointed pins, #7 and their lock pins,#8 attaches to the drawbar bracket shown in the picture; the same assembly you showed us in one of your pics. Once those pins are removed the hoe's subframe will slide off the tractor's subframe front bracket, (in the middle undercarriage), and the rest is as detailed in my prior post.

LINK

 

[Buggs67]

I have a rough idea the procedure to remove the hoe but I need to check on youtube to see if there is a run thru of the operation.

Also I was concerned about the two B.H. supply hoses being hard to get at where they live on the rear axel.

Ron

Removing the BH is pretty simple. A first step (I have forgotten) is to make sure the two pins (#7 in the diagram) are free, not under stress so they are easy to pull out. Then it's a question of using the stabilizers and the bucket to unload the BH weight from the tractor, and as CM said slowly drive forward to disengage the subframe from the rear and center connectors. When it's clear, shut off the tractor and disconnect the QC joints (I release the pressure in the lines with the remote valve control. IDK if that standard or necessary).

I find connecting the BH again to be more challenging. Having a level space to disconnect/connect makes it much easier as would blocking it up with pallets or 6X6 blocks.

My QC lines exit the rear of the tractor above the PTO.

This pic shows enough of the lift arms as well as my ballast bucket

 

[Coyote machine]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...454553170-new-pack-member-new-me-lb1914_2-jpg

I 'borrowed' this pic, above link, from a recent post about a LK Kioti, that a member is considering buying. I think it gives a pretty good view of a 3PH attached to this model Kioti.
Hope it helps...

 

[dbotos]

Here's link to a video showing a walk-around of an LK3054. 3-point is shown at 0:37 and 0:53 marks (may have to pause the video and move the time slider at the bottom to get a good still):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2PTNf5xUzk

 

[Coyote machine]

The very next video in that series shows the install of a Kioti backhoe and it's use, including having the 3PH remain in place with the hoe installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3tAqU4Bp7k

 

[JoelD]

Feel free to message me and I'm happy to help however I can
I've pulled my hoe on and off a bunch and I've used box blade tiller and snow blower with my tractor

When removing hoe don't forget to unplug the line going from the loader to the hoe and plug the loader line into the valve block under your right foot

Your three point will lift a ton of weight literally I think rated at just over 2k

Lifts and supports my 800lb blower like it's not there

Joel