3-Point Hitch Now what do I do...... was a Landpridce blade question

ron45 · Jan 25, 2016

Got the blade today. Looks like they don't mind putting good amounts of steel in the right places. I will trust for now it's the right kind of steel in the right place.

So, I came with one hydraulic cylinder so I need two free hoses to hook up. I am assuming when I remove the back hoe It will become apparent where to hook up the hoses. I am not exactly a seasoned operator so this is all "there be dragons there!" stuff for me. I'm going to drop the BH on three thick flat rocks while I play with the blade. I might be able to find a good ole person to line me out on the 3 pt hitch assembly. I think I have all the parts so perhaps with the picture in the owners manual [that looks like it was taken a dusk thru a dirty set of panty hose]. If said person is not forth coming, are there any gotchas concerning the assembly that I should be aware of?

Thank you for your time.

Ron

VictorW · Jan 25, 2016

I'm assuming you bought a back blade and it has a hydraulic cylinder to adjust angle. Was your BH powered through rear remotes? If so, hoses from the cylinder would connect there. 3pt hook ups are fairly straight forward. If you could post some pictures of the blade and the rear of your tractor, I'm sure we can help you get things working.

JoelD · Jan 25, 2016

Will need a control valve to direct oil through appropriate cyl port unless I'm missing something obvious

Oil supply to hoe on my machine is supply line in and out and valve body on hoe is used to direct that oil flow to various cylinder ports

Joel

Coyote machine · Jan 25, 2016

You likely have a cylinder on the rear blade with a rod end fitting and a cap end fitting, each with a hose attached. As stated your backhoe has a control valve to open and close various cylinders as needed. Your blade is missing that valve, so just hooking to the rear remote fittings won't allow you to control the cylinder on the blade, without adding a valve for the fluid to flow through. Pictures and existing equipment are needed for us to tell you what/how to do what you want to do. :confused3:

LD1 · Jan 26, 2016

Yep. You have to have a place to hook to (remote) that has a control valve used to angle the blade

Gary Fowler · Jan 26, 2016

My B26 TLB has no remotes for hydraulics. It simply has a supply and return hose. When the hoe is removed, I have to connect the supply to the return (simple male and female hydraulic coupling). If yours is like mine, then you will need to install some rear remote hydraulic port and valves. This is not a cheap operation either so be prepared for big $$$ to have this done.

ron45 · Jan 26, 2016

I should have realized pics would be needed. Thank you all for your generous help. I'll get some pics as soon as I can get out there. We are having some more snow at the moment but from the looks of things it will be a while before the blade gets angled by anything but me. I really need to build a shelter for Kioti.

Rpm

ron45 · Jan 27, 2016

Saul at Rivera Machinery in Tx.suggested a possible solution to avoid buying a control valve. With the judicious placement of two pieces of angle iron on the loader cylinders, I could use the joy stick for the loader as the control valve for the blade. I would just have to buy the hoses to make the connection from the blade cylinder to the joy stick. .I do not understand hydraulic systems enough to know if he is correct. Is he? will be sending some pictures later today.

Ron

ron45 · Jan 27, 2016

What sort of control valve specs would I need to operate that cylinder on the rear blade if I can find something at northern tool? There is a Brand Directional Control valve rated @3000 psi @ 99 bux. I'd prefer a dedicated valve over swaping hoses from the Joy stick if it's financially possible at a figure WAY under 600.00

ron45 · Jan 27, 2016

My owners manual has no spec for the pressure in the hydraulic system, nor does the tractor specs webpage. I do not get the manage attachments area of this forum. There is now a picture of the page I had a question about in the manage attachments window. I suppose this link will lead those concerned to somewhere that is not a threat to this forum. What would be wrong with that actual picture is this area like I see on other forums

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif

I know only that 7 gpm is the flow rate for Kioti why no pressure spec. It might matter when making valve choices. Can anyone tell me please if the valve pictured will do the job of moving the 6ft. blade under load. Or is the cylinder supped the limiting factor in the under load category. I'm talking about possible changing the angle of the blade while the tractor is moving. If this valve is not up to snuff if you can tell me why I may help with other choices. If someone has a suggestion I'd love to hear it [ under 200 if possible ] I know some well off people have tractors. I'm not one of them.

Coyote machine · Jan 27, 2016

Look at Surplus center for other possible valves.
You might consider making your cylinder/valve issue inquiry in the hydraulics forum, where people hang that know the answers to this type of stuff.
The GPM of hydraulic flow is important, but you have to know what the total flow is for the entire tractor, AND the remaining fluid GPM for things like a backhoe or rear blade cylinder.

You COULD use your loader, (FEL) joystick valve for the rear blade function, but you'd need a diverter, or similar setup, to control whether the flow goes to the loader or to the rear blade. Ideally, you'd have two pairs of rear remotes, one to control the backhoe when attached, and one to control the rear blade cylinder. (Either way, you will need a control valve to run the rear blade cylinder). In the meantime you can still use the blade manually.
Done right it can get expensive, but less so if you do it all yourself, and just buy the parts.

gladehound · Jan 27, 2016

Don't know what your hydraulic pressure is, but any valve rated for 3000 psi or better will be fine. I had a Kioti LB1914'and the pressure was around 2100 psi. No now have a Kioti ds4510hs and the pressure is around 2500 psi.

VictorW · Jan 27, 2016

As mentioned, 3000 psi would be plenty and I would think 7gals/minute is good. I'm not familiar with the 3054 and the two connections you use for the BH. When you disconnect the BH and you no longer have fluid flow to the BH valves, do you need to turn a valve on the tractor to redirect the hyd fluid flow? Reason for the question is whether you need an open or closed center valve to operate your cylinder. My Kioti BH works on the open center principle where fluid is always flowing through the valve block assembly.

ron45 · Jan 28, 2016

Part of why I have so many questions and so few few answers for those helping me is that I've never removed the hoe. A new adventure awaits. Hope to get to that today or tomorrow. Going out to take pics of blade and what I can see w/hoe in place. Also the components I have to, hopefully, assemble the 3pt. hitch. Film @ 6

ron45 · Jan 28, 2016

Whoops, forgot the hitch pics....

This is what I have. I came with the tractor and I don't know if anything is not there. There is one item with pillow blocks on either end and it's sort of like a turn buckle. Is that the top link? I have a position contol lever with numbers on it on my right. I assume it's to raise and lower the hitch.

It the hitch parts shot there are two long grey arms about an inch thick with pillow blocks at the ends. The large pins in the blade attachment brackets fit these holes. Another good thing I guess.

Can't thank you all enough for your patience and great help.

ron45 · Jan 28, 2016

`Guess I also forgot one was already there. Sorry for the clutter. I think that happened because I clicked some `in line' button. I don't feel like I under stand this process very well.

VictorW · Jan 28, 2016

From your picture, the outer two goldy colored pieces are the lift arm sway links. They mount to the lift arms and to the tractor frame to the outside of each lift arm mount. These keep the implement, in your case the back blade, from moving or swaying to the left or right The next two in are the lift arms. These mount to the tractor where you should have two pins and the other end mounts to the implement lift pins. The third in from each side are lift arm links that attach to the tractor's hydraulic actuated lift and the lift arms themselves. Normally one of these are adjustable so you can tilt the implement up or down from side to side. The center one is the top link. Mounts to the rear center of the tractor just below the hydraulic lift arms and above the PTO shaft. The heavier looking box piece in the center is the draw bar mount that mounts/bolts to the center underside at the rear of the tractor frame. The heavier bar just to the right of the mount is the draw bar itself that goes into the draw bar mount and is held in place by the approximately 1 inch diameter pins with the wire retainers. The front plate on the draw bar mount has one hole where the draw bar can pivot. It's towards the front of the tractor. The rear has three holes allowing you to move/pivot the draw bar so you can pull directly in line or off to each side.

Is there a way you can look at someones tractor or stop at a dealer? Even if it's a different model or other brand, all these parts will become very apparent as to where they go and how they work. By the way, the blade looks nice.

mj007 · Jan 28, 2016

ron45 said:
What sort of control valve specs would I need to operate that cylinder on the rear blade if I can find something at northern tool? There is a Brand Directional Control valve rated @3000 psi @ 99 bux. I'd prefer a dedicated valve over swaping hoses from the Joy stick if it's financially possible at a figure WAY under 600.00

Ck20 specs call for 7 gpm and 2500 psi

ron45 · Jan 29, 2016

Thank you very much Victor. One of the trade offs of living in a very low pop. density area is long trips for nearly anything. I do have a friend who works a the county maintenance yard and he may be able to help with the assy. if I get in trouble. Your description of them will get me most of the way, and, just standing there and looking at the thing in my hand and the tractor may get me the rest of the way.

I got very discouraged this afternoon looking an Brian's fitritehydraulics page. The hitches on those tractors look to me military grade and way out of my price range. I worried that this stuff in the picture would not support that blade properly, but your description gave no indication of inadequacy. Hope I read you right. I'm getting beyond my finances with this endeavor as it is. But I sure would like one of his set ups. Looks like he does very nice work.

How does someone who knows nothing about this stuff get the proper hoses ordered. There are so many fitting options it's quite overwhelming. The valves are fairly straight forward compared to hoses. At this point I don't have enough large mm wrenches to get an idea of the sizes involved. Got plenty of sockets but these are useless on assembled and working hoses.

22mm is my biggest wrench. I can maybe get some help from a neighbor or two If I can catch them at home.

Coyote machine · Jan 30, 2016

You'll have no problem lifting the blade with your 3PH. The capacity is high, so don't worry about it working. (for instance, my DK-40 can lift 2500 lbs. at 24"). I would bet your blade weighs around 6-800lbs. max?
The little welded on chain clips of the 2 lift arms face IN toward each other so a chain can be used, if desired, to keep them from moving apart. Chain optional. The adjustable link, (part 31, see diagram in link below) for the lift arm goes on the right side when facing the back of the tractor.

Surplus center can help you figure out what size hoses and fittings you may need. Give them a call.

Here's a link to the 3PH parts assembly diagram for your tractor model. It is viewed from the top link bracket which bolts behind and below your seat on the rear of the tractor. The lift arms, in this picture are shown from where they attach to the tractor facing away from the back and left side is closest to you, right side is further away.

Click on 'zoom in' and 'grab' the pic as needed with the mouse/hand icon to move it to where you need to see in the dialog box of the diagram.
This should make install as easy as pie.

Ignore that the link says 'error', just click it and get the diagram....

Error