NX4510HST FEL6010 Joystick cable

[Threepoint]

Yes, thankfully. It's a bit futzy in that it's a bit hard to access the allen-head bolts that hold the cable end cover on/down, and access to the top cable lock nut doesn't provide a nice parallel angle with a wrench (but it's not real tight in which case the wrench end can access from above the floor at an angle- if that makes sense). There's a cutout in the wheelwell that gives a little access, but not to all the bits (poor angle for some).

Thanks! Now that I know how to do it, I probably won't ever have too!

Wonder if a 1/4"-drive metric allen socket on a wobble extension might make things easier. :scratchchin:

 

[DieselBound]

Angle isn't as so much of an issue with those bolts as is the length to get above the covers (tight fit) and then, likely, above the floor.

 

[JimR]

I just broke one of my joystick cables also with only 270 hours on it. This is totally ridiculous. In my opinion, these cables are undersize for loader operation . I'll have to order one this weekend for mine. A swivel ball end Allen wrench makes it easier to remove the caps on the loader valve.

 

[DieselBound]

I just broke one of my joystick cables also with only 270 hours on it. This is totally ridiculous. In my opinion, these cables are undersize for loader operation . I'll have to order one this weekend for mine. A swivel ball end Allen wrench makes it easier to remove the caps on the loader valve.

Which one broke, and where did it break?

The cable pathway is pretty short and the cable has to take a (couple of) fairly hard turn/bend. Seems like this translates to a bit of a sideways stress at the base of where it attaches at the joystick. Mine (loader curl/dump) broke right at the locking nut. I don't recall if there's a sign of pre-existing stresses (discoloration across the break point). Might be that it's just crappy/cheap metal that is the culprit: I've found that Kioti seems to skimp here and there on things (I have some bolts that are rusting while similar adjacent bolts show no signs of rust; paint is sub-par, etc. etc.), so it would be no surprise to learn that this is the case with these cables (you'd never hear that they've upgraded lest they down the road they'd have to honor servicing many machines- not that this is a unique thing with Kioti- my Kubota's fuel cap was redesigned as the original was crap and would actually pop off and douse me with fuel! Kubota dealer did tell me the replacement, which I had to pay for, was a redesign, so that was nice to hear as it gives a sense of comfort going forward [instead of wondering how long it would go before it started doing what the original one did]).

Every time I pop out of float I wince... Hate having this kind of stuff stuck in my head.

 

[JimR]

Which one broke, and where did it break?

The cable pathway is pretty short and the cable has to take a (couple of) fairly hard turn/bend. Seems like this translates to a bit of a sideways stress at the base of where it attaches at the joystick. Mine (loader curl/dump) broke right at the locking nut. I don't recall if there's a sign of pre-existing stresses (discoloration across the break point). Might be that it's just crappy/cheap metal that is the culprit: I've found that Kioti seems to skimp here and there on things (I have some bolts that are rusting while similar adjacent bolts show no signs of rust; paint is sub-par, etc. etc.), so it would be no surprise to learn that this is the case with these cables (you'd never hear that they've upgraded lest they down the road they'd have to honor servicing many machines- not that this is a unique thing with Kioti- my Kubota's fuel cap was redesigned as the original was crap and would actually pop off and douse me with fuel! Kubota dealer did tell me the replacement, which I had to pay for, was a redesign, so that was nice to hear as it gives a sense of comfort going forward [instead of wondering how long it would go before it started doing what the original one did]).

Every time I pop out of float I wince... Hate having this kind of stuff stuck in my head.

The curl cable broke on mine right under te lock nut. The metal was not discolored either. The cable was not stuck and moved freely upon removal. Of course, nobody stocks one either. I'll be ordering two of them as a deter to being laid up while waiting for parts in the future. I agree with the cheap bolts and discoloration of certain ones. Kioti needs to do some in-house revamping to improve their products. This cable breakage crap is uncalled for. My handle works easily and wasn't stuck. At $94.00 apiece they should be able to make a decent cable.

 

[Threepoint]

The curl cable broke on mine right under te lock nut. The metal was not discolored either. The cable was not stuck and moved freely upon removal. Of course, nobody stocks one either. I'll be ordering two of them as a deter to being laid up while waiting for parts in the future. I agree with the cheap bolts and discoloration of certain ones. Kioti needs to do some in-house revamping to improve their products. This cable breakage crap is uncalled for. My handle works easily and wasn't stuck. At $94.00 apiece they should be able to make a decent cable.

Jim and DieselBound, I haven't had to deal with this, thankfully, so I'm not visualizing which end of the cable broke. The shop manual shows the valve end, and the lock nuts that tighten against the cable covers (pic 1 below). Was the break just inside the cable covers, above where the cable pins to the spool? Or at the joystick end (pic 2 below).

 

[DieselBound]

Threepoint,

The break is occurring at the joystick end, just past that large adjustment nut. The cable has a threaded shaft end on it that screws in to the plunger(? not sure terminology), and that shaft also has a locking/stop nut on it: the break is right where that small (internal) nut and the plunger meet. Here's a picture of mine (hopefully it helps):

 

[DieselBound]

One note to help folks in replacing cables is that you have to remove the dummy plunger (joystick end). There's a screw (allen; really hard to see) in that plunger that one has to remove in order to free up that plunger. The service manual wasn't really clear on this (for me anyway) and I struggled a bit to figure things out.

Also, be sure to adjust the cable BEFORE buttoning things up! I adjusted the new cable based on measurements from the old cable and then buttoned things up only to find that I still need to adjust it (handle runs way to far to the right, to the point of hitting the handrail on the door).

 

[JimR]

Threepoint,

The break is occurring at the joystick end, just past that large adjustment nut. The cable has a threaded shaft end on it that screws in to the plunger(? not sure terminology), and that shaft also has a locking/stop nut on it: the break is right where that small (internal) nut and the plunger meet. Here's a picture of mine (hopefully it helps):
View attachment 564608

That is exactly where mine broke also. The lock nut on the external cable sleeve was tight so that wasn't the issue. I knew about the Allen screw down under as mine had fallen out shortly after buying my tractor. The handle goes loose when that happens.

 

[DieselBound]

For sure, Kioti needs to redesign here. I suspect that they failed to calculate reduction in strength of the threads on the rod; and perhaps they're also over-tightening the nut (harder metal?) and that's adding to a loss of strength in the rod. As I noted, the bends seem pretty sharp (two bends in less(?) than about 1 1/2').

Kioti didn't have to shell out for labor costs on mine as I did the work (even though covered under warranty). If not for the hassle of having to drag the tractor to the dealers (or pay to have it done) I'd have done it as this would have made Kioti pay more and thus, I'd figure, give more incentive to change the design.