NX6010 quick loss of drive power

[DieselBound]

I'm wanting to say that there was another person (in these forums) having a similar problem. I know that my NX will feel a little hesitant when it's cold: but, as you note, you're not operating in a cold environment at this time.

About the fluid level, I pull the stick, wipe it off, stick it back in and take it back out to take a reading. I always see a big discrepancy. I seem to recall reading that JD had some additive that would color the fluid in order to make it easier to see levels: JD has been at it a long time in which case for them to come out with something (or recommend?) would tend to suggest that they see this as an issue.

 

[LouNY]

Interesting. I wasn't thinking about operating temp, and I don't think this is my problem because I'm running it in the warm weather, but that demo you give of high gear dying out, my tractor does that too. I can't climb even a very moderate hill in high, it will go on a perfect flat, but, up anything like a hill, it'll just die out and stall (if I hold the pedal full down). Interesting. The hydro oil mystery remains, pulled the stick the other day after some brush cutting, almost dry. Went back a day later, it was overflowing from the hole. Very confused. I'm half tempted to dump it all and just put in the "right" amount, per the manual, and see where that leaves me.

I'm not familiar with your tractor at all, but I have a question.
Your tractor is a hydro, is the foot pedal actually the gear selector, ie. the further down the higher the gear?
I hear of the linked pedals where the throttle and hydro gear pedal appear to increase the engine rpm as well as the "gearing",
is this thru the computer or mechanic linkage. You mention that it stalls on a hill with the pedal all the way down, if you disable the
link function and use your hand throttle to increase the engine rpm to pto and just use half down or less on the foot pedal does it climb your hill?

 

[Overtaxed]

Probably the easiest way to think of the hydro pedal (assuming linked mode is off) is like a clutch. In reverse, of course, but the harder you push the hydro down, the less the clutch "slips". Until when it's full down, it's like the clutch is all the way up and you're totally linked to the gear. So, for my issue, imagine if you had a car with 3 gears, all designed to be used from a stop, but with each designed to go a different top speed. The issue I see, and it looks like Eric saw, if I engage gear 3 (high), even with the engine at full power (gas pedal to the floor, in the car example), I can never fully let my foot off the clutch. The engine doesn't have the power to fully engage gear 3. Not sure if that helps or hurts for explaining it, but it's another way to think of it.

 

[Overtaxed]

I'm wanting to say that there was another person (in these forums) having a similar problem. I know that my NX will feel a little hesitant when it's cold: but, as you note, you're not operating in a cold environment at this time.

About the fluid level, I pull the stick, wipe it off, stick it back in and take it back out to take a reading. I always see a big discrepancy. I seem to recall reading that JD had some additive that would color the fluid in order to make it easier to see levels: JD has been at it a long time in which case for them to come out with something (or recommend?) would tend to suggest that they see this as an issue.

Thanks for the reply, but I have a question. There's "I can't see the level" which an additive will help with, and then there's the "big discrepancy" issue. I'm having the latter, it sounds like you are as well. Yeah, it's hard to see the hydro level, that's a PITA too, but I can see it, just need to look hard. Adding something to the fluid would be great to make that easier. But, what's up with the discrepancy? If we assuming I'm seeing the level correctly on the stick, why is it bone dry some days and literally blowing out the hole other times? That's the part that has me really perplexed.

 

[LouNY]

Probably the easiest way to think of the hydro pedal (assuming linked mode is off) is like a clutch. In reverse, of course, but the harder you push the hydro down, the less the clutch "slips". Until when it's full down, it's like the clutch is all the way up and you're totally linked to the gear. So, for my issue, imagine if you had a car with 3 gears, all designed to be used from a stop, but with each designed to go a different top speed. The issue I see, and it looks like Eric saw, if I engage gear 3 (high), even with the engine at full power (gas pedal to the floor, in the car example), I can never fully let my foot off the clutch. The engine doesn't have the power to fully engage gear 3. Not sure if that helps or hurts for explaining it, but it's another way to think of it.

I am not a hydro fan, the few I have operated did not behave that way;
A modern gear tractor will have a 2 or 3 speed range box and a 4 or 5 speed transmission;
The hydro will have the same range box to select a range, with the foot pedal being the transmission, the amount of pedal depression corresponds to the gear selection, just partly down would be first, halfway 2nd or 3rd and all the way down is 4th or high gear, so with the pedal all the way down you are in effect in the highest gear and hi range so it would stall.

 

[coobie]

Huh? This was something that occurred several years ago. He's stating what he did to rectify an issue he had- he's not complaining now (about that issue).

Defend him anyway you wish..He still whines about his Kioti warranty issue every chance he gets.

 

[DieselBound]

Defend him anyway you wish..He still whines about his Kioti warranty issue every chance he gets.

I'm not defending anyone. I'm just stating the facts. Yes, Eric does mention the incident. Don't mean he's whining. If you have an issue with him then that's your beef.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Interesting. I wasn't thinking about operating temp, and I don't think this is my problem because I'm running it in the warm weather, but that demo you give of high gear dying out, my tractor does that too. I can't climb even a very moderate hill in high, it will go on a perfect flat, but, up anything like a hill, it'll just die out and stall (if I hold the pedal full down). Interesting. The hydro oil mystery remains, pulled the stick the other day after some brush cutting, almost dry. Went back a day later, it was overflowing from the hole. Very confused. I'm half tempted to dump it all and just put in the "right" amount, per the manual, and see where that leaves me.

In my case the engine was running too cold to regenerate and slowly plugged the diesel particulate filter. In the video I shared, my gauge shows the engine is warm but it wasn't warm enough to pull a regen cycle and the inability to regenerate lead to a loss of power at higher rpm due to the exhaust slowly becoming more and more restricted. If your engine feels as if it has more power after the next regeneration cycle, then you may be sharing the problem I found with my tractor as the DPF should normally not become so restricted as to reduce power. In my case, after a whole summer of use, I didn't realize that I had effectively been running the whole time with a restriction in power. My tractor was a whole new machine after I made the T-stat swap. Anyway, something for you to keep in mind if the issue persists.

Hydro oil level wise, hydro oil will expand when warm, but if you're in the middle of dip stick when cold, you should be okay when colder or warmer. My tractor will also overflow when warm when set to the middle of the dipstick when cold and when really, really cold, it still registers on the bottom of the dipstick. Hope that helps you puzzle out your dipstick.

If your dispstick level goes down when the engine warms up, then there is a problem with oil returning to the tank, which in this case is our transmissions.

 

[AWSubie]

Overtaxed: If you're still having the issue; have you tried the air bleeding procedure from the manual? The manual states to raise the front wheels off of the ground (the manual says use a winch but that's probably because not everyone has a FEL) and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times. Lower the wheels and then raise and lower the 3 point five or six times with no load on the 3 point. Check the fluid level and add any if necessary. Raise the engine speed to 1500 rpm wait a few seconds and then move the tractor forward and backward slowly. If the backing and forward motion is smooth all the air should be removed from the system. I figure it can't hurt to try...