Nyla nuts

   / Nyla nuts #41  
Valid point, but just noting that using both for "extra assurance" doesn't always work.

On the plus side, gasoline doesn't affect it, I found a hole in a 5 gallon gas can and plugged it with a stainless button head screw and a nyloc nut on the inside... that wasn't fun to get into place :)
 
   / Nyla nuts #43  
Jam nut it and be done. I always use a jam nut in a situation like that.
 
   / Nyla nuts #46  
Looking at you photos, it appears to be enough threads for jam nuts. Could you get longer bolts then jam nut them?
 
   / Nyla nuts #48  
Just took a closer look at a few of them and sure enough, one nut was a couple of turns from falling off! Others were in various stages of 'unscrewing' most likely from vibration. None are tightened up... not even sure they can be tightened without bottoming out the nut on the shank of the bolt. I suppose that was their thinking in using nyloc nuts as they wanted the pins to be loose.

There is room to install a thin jam nut but I wonder how effective that would be if there is meant to be a gap?
 
   / Nyla nuts #49  
The jam nuts can be at the end of the bolt and still hold. As long as there is enough threads in the nut so it doesn't strip. But getting a little longer bolt is probably an option as well.
 
   / Nyla nuts #50  
I'm thinking cheap and quick and since most of them need tightening as it stands.

Back the nuts off a bit... shoot the gunk off with some break cleaner, blast with a little air, and add a drop of blue loctite and tighten up some. There are actually a lot more of these joints than I previously realized.
 
   / Nyla nuts #51  
For when you need the belt and suspenders approach, I give you the nylock castle nut.
IMG_0350.JPG
 
   / Nyla nuts #52  
I recommend welding the end of the pin to the loader frame and skip all these nuts and bolts, nylon, loctite and all that other stuff. If you need to get the pin out, grind the weld off and drive the pin out.
 
   / Nyla nuts #53  
I recommend welding the end of the pin to the loader frame and skip all these nuts and bolts, nylon, loctite and all that other stuff. If you need to get the pin out, grind the weld off and drive the pin out.

Ouch.... The is a approach that can have dire complications....

Dale
 
   / Nyla nuts
  • Thread Starter
#56  
I was at the lumber store yesterday waiting. They had Nyla bolts on display, like Lowe痴 etc, called stop nuts.

That itself could be a thread.

Plywood 6 months ago, around $10. Now $28, if you can get it. I知 in the middle of building a house. If you are building a spec house, good luck!

The new guys here with his massive forest chipper. Last guy had blades, broke his machine and quit. this one has carbide hammers. Will try to post video later.
 
   / Nyla nuts #57  
Not me! And I am saying this while my business is centered around plastic aerospace fasteners.

Nylocs are a sexy locking fastener and I use them a lot. But they are not as capable in high vibration, heat, or chemical environments. And a combination of environments makes these poor. That said... good enough for your tractor... absolutely!

I am apparently missing something. Perhaps nylalocks aren't the at the top of the technological pole. I wouldn't argue with that. But the applications shown by both you and the OP are sort of a low tech application and are certainly not subject to much in the way of heat vibration or chemicals. They are very easy to use, extremely unlikely to vibrate off if tightened to where a couple of threads are showing past the end. If they are worn out it is easy to tell because they tighten to easily. Just what makes them so unsuitable for this application?
 
   / Nyla nuts #58  
I am apparently missing something. Perhaps nylalocks aren't the at the top of the technological pole. I wouldn't argue with that. But the applications shown by both you and the OP are sort of a low tech application and are certainly not subject to much in the way of heat vibration or chemicals. They are very easy to use, extremely unlikely to vibrate off if tightened to where a couple of threads are showing past the end. If they are worn out it is easy to tell because they tighten to easily. Just what makes them so unsuitable for this application?
Hey Coug! I'm a Husky alum so love to argue with you. :laughing:

Agreed on heat and chemicals not being relevant here. Was just talking about limitations. I know something about fasteners. I was, and am not saying this is necessarily a bad application for Nylocs. But the reality is my nuts are working loose (or maybe I have a screw loose and I'm going nuts)... That said, I will bet it is vibration not gravity, thermocycling, or tampering that is the culprit.

Sure good practice is to inspect your equipment frequently but I don't inspect to that detail typically, and one shouldn't have to. These pins shouldn't be removed ever unless a major overhaul. A benefit of self locking nuts/fasteners is that you don't have to routinely inspect. They surely shouldn't be slowly rotating off under normal operation. I have about 450hrs on my tractor. That is low to have nuts rattling off. And how would they be worn out? They haven't been touched since I took ownership, new.

So... I am looking at locking them better than the OEM solution because apparently Nylocs are not good enough, at least for me. Just happy I ran across this thread and inspected my own before I had missing pin(s) and possible resulting damage due to operating the FEL not completely pinned.
 
   / Nyla nuts
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Went to lumber store yesterday. Bring your check book!

They were selling Nyla nuts in little packages, like Lowe痴.

They were labeled

Stop Nuts
 
   / Nyla nuts #60  
I have to wonder if the nuts were ever tightened into the lock material.
They should not have loosened in that application.
 

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