Obtaining Heat Inside a 3320 Cab

[concord maple]

Bought a new cabbed 3320 at end of summer and I can't seem to get the heat on in the cab. This is the first time trying it in cold weather. Both the heat and cold knobs are turned as far as they go clockwise and I have the AC/deicing button pushed on..It is still blowing cold air. How long does it need to run before it begins blowing warm air?

 

[Dutch445]

Has your temp gage come up to operating temp? There are 2 heater hoses on the right side of the engine compartment going up into
the cab to the heater core, are they getting hot? you may want to try turning the A/C off and see if you get any heat. Also, check your
coolant in the radiator (when cool) and see if it is full. If you get an air bubble in the system and it finds it's way up into your cab heater
it will prevent the warm coolant from circulating up into the heater core in the cab. I can't remember for sure, but some tractors have
a valve to shut that flow off going up into the cab (for summer), which would be visible from the right side of the tractor, between the engine and the
bottom front of the cab where those hoses go into the cab and up to the heater core.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Turn off the ac by disengaging the AC button (light off) and just turn your temp control to hot. The heater should work then, at least that is how mine works.

 

[concord maple]

Has your temp gage come up to operating temp? There are 2 heater hoses on the right side of the engine compartment going up into
the cab to the heater core, are they getting hot? you may want to try turning the A/C off and see if you get any heat. Also, check your
coolant in the radiator (when cool) and see if it is full. If you get an air bubble in the system and it finds it's way up into your cab heater
it will prevent the warm coolant from circulating up into the heater core in the cab. I can't remember for sure, but some tractors have
a valve to shut that flow off going up into the cab (for summer), which would be visible from the right side of the tractor, between the engine and the
bottom front of the cab where those hoses go into the cab and up to the heater core.

Just talked with dealer. Turned off AC switch and ran tractor at 1800 rpm for 20 minutes and still not blowing noticeable hot air. Even stainless lines not hot to touch. Dealer suspecting air got in and need to bleed off.

 

[buickanddeere]

Who connected the heater hoses and to where? We see dopes all the time that connect to just the block and head.

 

[greg_g]

Had a similar issue when my 3720 was new. Had to pop the top and adjust the temp control cables between the cab and the heat exchangers. What the knobs said - and what they were actually doing - was not the same thing. Also - what you're calling a deicer switch is actually just a compressor on/off switch. Its only purpose is to control whether you're cooling with A/C or with ambient air. It should be off when you want heat.

//greg//

 

[concord maple]

Is there a valve or switch somewhere that may be shut that would allow coolant not to enter the cab in the summer as was mentioned earlier? Looks as if one of the hoses running into the cab is warm on one side of the tractor and one running on the other side is cold.

 

[greg_g]

That's what the cables do. As you turn either of those knobs inside the cab, they're supposed to open and close valves up under the cab cover. Sounds like your red knob isn't opening the heater core valve far enough - if at all. You have to take the roof off to adjust for proper cable travel. And don't try it yourself. Two guys have to lift the roof straight up, or else you'll tear the weather seal. I watched a John Deere mechanic try it himself, and they ended up buying me a new seal.

//greg//

 

[ctlguy]

There is a rotary plastic shut off in the heater hoses as well. You will find it near where the hoses enter / exit the cab on the outside of the machine.

 

[concord maple]

There is a rotary plastic shut off in the heater hoses as well. You will find it near where the hoses enter / exit the cab on the outside of the machine.

We looked for a valve by tracing the hoses but dont see any. Dealer is supposed to be here within the hour. They think it is an air bubble in system and haven't mentioned anything about valves. So I will let you know what they figure out.

 

[concord maple]

Got heat now. It was air in the system. Just bled system refilled and had heat.

 

[Cigar Face]

Got heat now. It was air in the system. Just bled system refilled and had heat.

Good to hear. Regardless of what others said, you should be able to run the a/c switch in the on position and plenty of heat. I have the same tractor. If your out in the snow, your windows will fog up without the a/c switch on because of the lack of dehumidifying. I run mine on all year long plus it's good for your a/c system. When you have your defroster on in your car, your a/c comes on automatically.

 

[BIGGREEN3320]

I have the same problem, how did they bleed the sytem
thank you

 

[dschuffert]

Good to hear. Regardless of what others said, you should be able to run the a/c switch in the on position and plenty of heat. I have the same tractor. If your out in the snow, your windows will fog up without the a/c switch on because of the lack of dehumidifying. I run mine on all year long plus it's good for your a/c system. When you have your defroster on in your car, your a/c comes on automatically.

I agree. I have to use the a/c on with the heat to keep the cab windows clear. It works the same as in any modern vehicle.

 

[Cigar Face]

I have the same problem, how did they bleed the sytem
thank you

dont know how john deere does it but i would imagine they do it like any other vehicle. Just run the machine with the heater on hot (dont really need blower on) and the cap off the radiator. Let it warm up or until the coolant starts to overflow. replace cap and your done. If there is air in your system, you will see bubbles. easy process and much better than having to ship machine to dealer even if its under warranty

 

[greg_g]

I agree. I have to use the a/c on with the heat to keep the cab windows clear. It works the same as in any modern vehicle.

Something's apparently different in my part of the country, but I'm not sure if it's the tractor or the weather. I agree that the compressor needs occasional exercise. But in nearly two years of ownership, I've never had the cab fog up on the inside. Don't know if there's actually any fuel saving to it anymore, but I still selectively switch the compressor on only when the red knob is off and the blue knob alone won't cool the cab sufficiently.

//greg//

 

[concord maple]

I have the same problem, how did they bleed the sytem
thank you

They removed cap and started tractor. They then removed the c-clamp to remove the hose that is T'd into the hose on the right side of the tractor if you were sitting in the cab just above the front axle. This hose then runs back right by the oil filter. They then pulled the hose and caught the coolant in a small container. They reinstalled the hose, shut down tractor, and poured back into radiator. When they first removed the hose it spit and sputtered coming out just like when you first hook up and use a garden hose. After adding the caught coolant back in, they repeated the process. Had to add a little at the end due to losing some during the process. When they performed it the second time the coolant immediately came out with no spitting or sputtering so he stated that verified the system had the air removed. He also stated that this has been common on the new ones.

 

[concord maple]

Yes my owner manual calls the button the ac/deicer button which would be the same as a defroster in a vehicle.

 

[BIGGREEN3320]

Got Heat now ,was air in the system
Thanks Guys for the help

 

[concord maple]

Got Heat now ,was air in the system
Thanks Guys for the help

No problems since they bled the system. Gets hot in the cab when plowing and blowing. Great to hear you got heat.