Oddball 135 Rebuild

[MatthewPaul]

Last Friday I picked up an oddball 135 that is a basket case. The motor internals came in boxes, and the tractor was half stripped down. I think its a 135, the tins are anyway. It has a 3cy perkins, with a generator. The rear end appears to be a square housing like my buddies 175, it also has what appears too be a class 2 3pt. It has a 4speed hi/low transmission. The front axle is a solid non adjustable track width, with twin hydraulic cylinders. There is a diff lock on the rear, and it has disc brakes. It has solid 1 piece wheels, and not an inner/outer setup. There are 14.9/24 tires out back and 6.00-16 up front. There is yellow paint under the grey on many parts of the tractor, including but not limited to the hitch and front axle.

According to the tag on the dash, it is a 1972 135. It is a 9a serial number followed by six numbers.

it came with new in box perkins pistons, main and rod bearings, wrist pins, wrist pin bushings, etc.

The head was really messed up. It had been filled with water and left for some time. The valves and ports were badly rusted but everything cleaned up nicely.

Here are some photos of how I got it:

Over the weekend I split the tractor, and rebuilt the rotating assembly and head. Im just waiting on gaskets to get here. I'll post up some photos of that in a little while.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Wow... 135's are great tractors, but...

I hope they paid you to take that one.

Good luck, keep us updated on progress. Thanks for sharing.

 

[MatthewPaul]

I split it and pulled the engine apart, which was fun since the pilot bearing was stuck on the input shaft.

I had to deck the block as someone put sleeves in it and never did. #3 was bout 1/16" above the deck height, and #2 was about 1/32"

The sleeves look new, or had minimal wear and were honed. The whole thing is weird, it had new bearings in the crank, and rods, with very minimal wear, as if the engine was just rebuilt, but someone took the engine back apart again.

I put the new pistons on the rods:

The head was pretty nasty, but cleaned up well after a day soaking in CLR and a lot of brusing.

The exhaust valves, before and after.

I loosely bolted it back together while I wait for my gaskets, so it does not get filled with dirt and dust.

And that's all for now.

 

[MatthewPaul]

Wow... 135's are great tractors, but...

I hope they paid you to take that one.

Good luck, keep us updated on progress. Thanks for sharing.

Pretty much. I just redid a 2n that was the same way.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Mate, there's nothing like a challenge!

Seriously though, you've picked up what will be a rather capable tractor once you have it back together. It has some very impressive equipment. Maybe some of the USA members will know better than me, but it isn't the same spec as our Aussie 135s. Yours has PTO, but also the much bigger 65/165-188-spec rear axle - which comes with the inboard double-disc brakes, heavier (maybe) 165-188-spec front axle as well, power steering :licking:and cat 2 3PL (rather oddly-extended?) lift arms with what looks like adjustable LH lift link.

Cat 2 lower arms I believe suit 1&1/8" pins and the top link takes a 7/8" pin. (Cat 1 are 7/8" and 3/4" respectively).

This tractor appears to have quite similar specs to my MF40 loader, obviously without the loader and related framing, and instead has 135-styled body panels. My loader (with the bucket removed) makes a very heavy but stable and sure-footed machine with incredible grip - it will hold the ground and labour the (freshly-reconditioned) 3cyl Perkins diesel engine in 2nd gear. Yours could also be a 2200 or 2203 industrial - a lot of those here were equipped with 3PL and PTO. I'm also wondering what shape of rear fenders and what size F & R tyres are fitted.

Can you help us with a serial number? Also, what gearbox does it have - clutch with 4x2F + 2R, clutch with mechanical shuttle 4F + 4R, or torque converter 2 x 2 shuttle (F+R shuttle pedals on RH side, 2x brake pedals on LH side)? Any chance of some more pics? Gear levers and shift pattern diagram, instrument panel, pedals - LH & RH, and 3PL controls. Also feel free to include anything else you might want to post. Many thanks in advance.

There are a lot of positives in this project once it's reassembled - the most reliable tractor you've ever owned. :thumbsup: I'm very envious! :laughing:

 

[MatthewPaul]

Thank you!

That is part of what was confusing me about it was that the axles were totally different from the other 135 that we have from the same era. The serial Number is 9a-134124. I'll include a photo of that. The transmission is a 4speed plus reverse and high-low. Both brake pedals are on the right side like our other 135, and it has a 2 stage clutch, 11" and 9" clutch discs, both 10 spline. Sift pattern seems to be the same as our other massey, three gears on top and one down on each side. I'll include photos of the 3pt controls.

Since my last post I welded the broken foot peg on the right side.

I painted the front axle and center section. I figured it would be easier to get in there while the motor was out.

I wire brushed the rust from all of the tins and hung them up, then put two coats of primer on them, and 4 on t he hood and nose.

I mocked up hood up to make sure everything was there and fit.

And then fit it to the machine to see how it would look. Not a bad fit, and everything looks pretty good. There is no body fill in it at this point, I hammered the tins straight the best that I could on my anvil.

Here are the other photos Patrick:

 

[Winmac]

You may have an "orchard special" version of the 135

 

[murph1]

See TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 135 tractor information

Seems the #s match out for a 72 but no mention of disc brakes and I did not see any front lights on yours. The dash has a filler where your switch would be on a diesel deluxe.

 

[MatthewPaul]

You may have an "orchard special" version of the 135

That is possible.

See TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 135 tractor information


Seems the #s match out for a 72 but no mention of disc brakes and I did not see any front lights on yours. The dash has a filler where your switch would be on a diesel deluxe.

Im not sure what part of the dash that would be, but on the far left portion of the dash, that silver round, there is a switch (No clue what it is for as of yet), but it's a 3cyl gas perkins, not diesel.

 

[murph1]

That is possible.


Im not sure what part of the dash that would be, but on the far left portion of the dash, that silver round, there is a switch (No clue what it is for as of yet), but it's a 3cyl gas perkins, not diesel.

That silver piece is where my light switch is. The gas uses the same block.

 

[PatrickS2222]

See TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 135 tractor information

Seems the #s match out for a 72 but no mention of disc brakes and I did not see any front lights on yours. The dash has a filler where your switch would be on a diesel deluxe.

Hi Murph, I think it's built in 1969 - it's rather confusing as different national versions seem to have their own prefix (in this case 9A, then the serial 134124). 9A seems to have begun in 1967 - at least according to this (British?) site
Massey Ferguson 135 Serial Numbers | Vintage Tractor Engineer
- but the year model break-points are all different. Yours is almost certainly Detroit-built, so TractorData numbers or even another US-based enthusiasts' site should be more reliable. That said, 8F + 2R (what a bonus is that) manual gearboxes were available in the later years of the model run, I'm not sure from when though. That has created some doubt in my mind for sure! In reference to disc brakes, the twin-double-faced plate inboard brakes on the axle housings - looks like they're the dry brakes version. I seem to recall lights were optional equipment, but that could be incorrect.

Hey Matthew, Good to see you're getting on with the job ..... certainly not messing around. :laughing: I didn't recognise the bare engine not being diesel - they look very similar until the external parts are fitted. :ashamed: Great repair job on the footrest - that won't break in a hurry! You've made some real progress too. :thumbsup:

 

[murph1]

Hi Murph, I think it's built in 1969 - it's rather confusing as different national versions seem to have their own prefix (in this case 9A, then the serial 134124). 9A seems to have begun in 1967 - at least according to this (British?) site
Massey Ferguson 135 Serial Numbers | Vintage Tractor Engineer
- but the year model break-points are all different. Yours is almost certainly Detroit-built, so TractorData numbers or even another US-based enthusiasts' site should be more reliable. That said, 8F + 2R (what a bonus is that) manual gearboxes were available in the later years of the model run, I'm not sure from when though. That has created some doubt in my mind for sure! In reference to disc brakes, the twin-double-faced plate inboard brakes on the axle housings - looks like they're the dry brakes version. I seem to recall lights were optional equipment, but that could be incorrect.

Good to see you're getting on with the job ..... certainly not messing around. :laughing: Great repair job on the footrest - that won't break in a hurry! You've made some real progress too. :thumbsup:

I have the same trans in my 1967 perkins diesel. His was built here.

 

[PatrickS2222]

I have the same trans in my 1967 perkins diesel. His was built here.

Murph, maybe that was an optional gearbox which later became standard equipment, or at least standard on some models or in some countries.

I can't believe the huge rear axle! Also the track width would be so much wider than mine, which has drum brakes and is the same as our MF 35 (my late father's first tractor), but with a diff lock.

Matthew, that reminds me, you need to check (or change would be better idea) the oil in the rear axle planetary reduction hubs. A lot of guys don't realise they don't share the gearbox/rear axle oil. There is a fill plug - that is the correct oil level. SAE90 or 80-90 gear oil is correct, but Universal Tractor Oil will be Ok too. The axle area between the differential casing and the planetaries should be dry - that's where the brakes are located. I'm sure later models used wet brakes, but don't know when the change was made. Incidentally, a quick and easy way to tell whether dry or wet brakes are fitted is to look at the plate between the centre housing and the axle housing - if there are two notches in its edge when viewed from the rear of the tractor they are wet brakes. If only a pry-point is visible it has dry brakes.

 

[MatthewPaul]

Murph, maybe that was an optional gearbox which later became standard equipment, or at least standard on some models or in some countries.

I can't believe the huge rear axle! Also the track width would be so much wider than mine, which has drum brakes and is the same as our MF 35 (my late father's first tractor), but with a diff lock.

Matthew, that reminds me, you need to check (or change would be better idea) the oil in the rear axle planetary reduction hubs. A lot of guys don't realise they don't share the gearbox/rear axle oil. There is a fill plug - that is the correct oil level. SAE90 or 80-90 gear oil is correct, but Universal Tractor Oil will be Ok too. The axle area between the differential casing and the planetaries should be dry - that's where the brakes are located. I'm sure later models used wet brakes, but don't know when the change was made. Incidentally, a quick and easy way to tell whether dry or wet brakes are fitted is to look at the plate between the centre housing and the axle housing - if there are two notches in its edge when viewed from the rear of the tractor they are wet brakes. If only a pry-point is visible it has dry brakes.

Center to center on the rear axle is about 65"
Thanks for the info on the hubs, I'll have to check/change that when I get her running. It looks like there are five evenly spaced pry locations per side on the rear axle.

I got some more work done on the machine. I got most of the parts laid out, cleaned up and painted, and the gasket sets in. SO, I started putting the engine together. It's an interesting mix of seals and gaskets that they used. A two piece rope seal on the rear main, a one piece modern seal on the front main, cork strips on the end main bearings for the oil pan..

It turns out that the generator bracket on this engine is really an alternator bracket, so I had to make some spacers to make it work, You can see them in one of the photos.

I also found out the back story on the tractor. It just so happened that a friends father knew the guy that died that owned it previously and the guy that I purchased it from and verified the story. It came from less than a mile down the road from me, originally. The previous owner was taking it apart to restore it and passed away on the way to the hospital. I know his sons, but I did not know that when I purchased the machine.

Anyway, I put a new oil pump in it.

One of the studs for the valve cover were missing, and I could not find anything suitable, so I turned down a new one on the lathe. The top stud is the one that I made:

I got the motor mostly together.

and pulled it out of my shop with a friends forklift.

I got the front end bolted to it. Im still waiting for the pilot bearing, otherwise I would have just hung the engine on the transmission.

Then I got started on the carb. It seems as if you cant get complete kits for these zenith carbs, So I just refurbished all of the parts, and made a gasket.

I got the adapter plate mounted, flywheel on, and since those silly keeper tabs for the bolts all broke when I took them off, I just cross drilled the bolt heads and wired them.

I'm just waiting on the final parts to finish it up.

 

[MatthewPaul]

I got some more work done. I got the tractor back together, pilot bearing in, etc. and bolted the two halves up.

Waterpump, fan, coolant hoses, coolant temp sensor, new coolant temp gauge, Air hose, and so on...

Fuel tank, radiator, hydraulic lines for the steering, Welded one some muffler that I found in the dumpster (just temporary. Im not spending any more money until I know it runs), A lot of the wiring is in place. Base timing set, plugs in, wires made and on. Im just waiting on the starter, battery, and cables. Then we'll see what it does... The starter in the photo was the the correct one.

 

[WilliamTO-35]

Neat tractor, great work, and thanks for the updated photos. It's odd that the top of the cylinder sleeves stuck up as much as 1/16 inch. They're supposed to protrude a bit in order to seal well with the head gasket, but not that much. I wonder if the block was decked once before, causing the new sleeves to stick up too much ? Did you remove the sleeves to check under the sleeve lips, and to replace the coolant seal O rings at the bottom of the sleeves ? It's possible that the engine was taken apart a second time to deal with coolant leaking past the O rings and into the crankcase.
( I'm using Ferguson TO-35 knowledge here, and I may not have my details correct. However, when I replaced the head gasket on my engine, I did not try to remove the sleeves , using the " let sleeping dogs lie" approach. It burns a little oil, but that's ok.)

 

[PatrickS2222]

Yep, you're certainly getting into it - a lot done in a short time. Wish I had that same amount of time to spend on mine!
It's going to be a great machine when you're finished.
BTW, from memory I think they are dry liners - no seals involved.

 

[MatthewPaul]

Neat tractor, great work, and thanks for the updated photos. It's odd that the top of the cylinder sleeves stuck up as much as 1/16 inch. They're supposed to protrude a bit in order to seal well with the head gasket, but not that much. I wonder if the block was decked once before, causing the new sleeves to stick up too much ? Did you remove the sleeves to check under the sleeve lips, and to replace the coolant seal O rings at the bottom of the sleeves ? It's possible that the engine was taken apart a second time to deal with coolant leaking past the O rings and into the crankcase.
( I'm using Ferguson TO-35 knowledge here, and I may not have my details correct. However, when I replaced the head gasket on my engine, I did not try to remove the sleeves , using the " let sleeping dogs lie" approach. It burns a little oil, but that's ok.)

Thank you. Like Patrick said, I believe they are dry sleeves on these.

Yep, you're certainly getting into it - a lot done in a short time. Wish I had that same amount of time to spend on mine!
It's going to be a great machine when you're finished.
BTW, from memory I think they are dry liners - no seals involved.

Thank you. I work for myself and am waiting on materials for my next jobs so I took the time to get this running. My girl owns a farm so Im trying to get this done before it's growing season so she has an extra tractor as backup, and Id like to get a loader on it before too long as well. We have a 135 already, and I just finished up a 2n for her over the winter. This 135 is mine though

 

[MatthewPaul]

I got it running. This is the first crank and it started right up.

 

[MatthewPaul]

After it warmed up just a little bit