Offsetting a tandem drag disc

[flusher]

I have a line on a tandem drag disc that measures about 6-ft wide.
The disc gangs are in the conventional X-arrangement.
The rear wheel track on my MF-135 measures 6'-10".
I would like to adjust the hitch to offset the disc about 12-18" so one of the wheel tracks is covered as I drag the disc around my 7 acres.

Anyone have pictures showing how the hitch is adjusted for this arrangement?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I have a line on a tandem drag disc that measures about 6-ft wide.
The disc gangs are in the conventional X-arrangement.
The rear wheel track on my MF-135 measures 6'-10".
I would like to adjust the hitch to offset the disc about 12-18" so one of the wheel tracks is covered as I drag the disc around my 7 acres.

Anyone have pictures showing how the hitch is adjusted for this arrangement?

Does your 135 have an O.E.M drawbar? It will swing to one side or the other. That may give you enough "offset". Another option might be to use a 7-hole (or in some cases, 9-hole) drawbar that uses 3-point lower links. Use a hole to extreme ends to offset hitch point.

 

[flusher]

Does your 135 have an O.E.M drawbar? It will swing to one side or the other. That may give you enough "offset". Another option might be to use a 7-hole (or in some cases, 9-hole) drawbar that uses 3-point lower links. Use a hole to extreme ends to offset hitch point.

It has the OEM drawbar bracket, but the drawbar itself is missing. I intend to replace it soon.

I saw those 3pt drawbars at the MF dealer in Chico. I plan to get one of those also. My concern is the unbalanced loads on the lower arms of the 3pt if I offset the drag disc hitch.

My initial idea was to use the swinging drawbar and some type of L-shaped adapter that would give me the offset I need. I would use a couple of bolts on the drawbar bracket to limit the amount of swing.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

It has the OEM drawbar bracket, but the drawbar itself is missing. I intend to replace it soon.

I saw those 3pt drawbars at the MF dealer in Chico. I plan to get one of those also. My concern is the unbalanced loads on the lower arms of the 3pt if I offset the drag disc hitch.

My initial idea was to use the swinging drawbar and some type of L-shaped adapter that would give me the offset I need. I would use a couple of bolts on the drawbar bracket to limit the amount of swing.

I used to pull my first hay baler and also a 1-row corn picker with a wagon hitched to that off of the 3-point 7-hole drawbar to get enough offset to clear the tractor's wheels. That never loaded the lower links beyond their capabilities. (on my 150-same hitch as your 135)

I keep a couple 3/8" X 2-1/2" bolts in my drawbar bracket to hold the drawbar centered or offset as needed.

 

[flusher]

I used to pull my first hay baler and also a 1-row corn picker with a wagon hitched to that off of the 3-point 7-hole drawbar to get enough offset to clear the tractor's wheels. That never loaded the lower links beyond their capabilities. (on my 150-same hitch as your 135)

I keep a couple 3/8" X 2-1/2" bolts in my drawbar bracket to hold the drawbar centered or offset as needed.

That's good to know. It's a simple, slick solution. I'll try that setup first when I get ready to do some serious discing. Thanks again for the info.

 

[Birdhunter1]

Why don't you just adjust the rims in on your 135?
Does it have the standard rims or the PAVT rims that spin the wheels in or out. If it's got the PAVT it's about a 10 minute job total to move the rears in and jack up the front and move it in.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Why don't you just adjust the rims in on your 135?
Does it have the standard rims or the PAVT rims that spin the wheels in or out. If it's got the PAVT it's about a 10 minute job total to move the rears in and jack up the front and move it in.

You need to see a rear view of his tractor. It was an orchard tractor. HUGE, wide tires. I believe they're "in" as far as they'll go and still he has a wide tractor.

 

[Birdhunter1]

That would be why he can't bring them in.

Farmwithjunk, do you want to sell your 150 yet?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

That would be why he can't bring them in.

Farmwithjunk, do you want to sell your 150 yet?

No plans on selling it as long as I'm still breathing. My 2440 Deere gets moved over to my sons place on monday. He needs it and I don't any more. I'm trying to find a decent 165 Massey. When I do, the 3000 Ford may go away.

I'm on vacation for the next couple weeks. The 150 will finally get a "class A" paint job probably starting on monday or tuesday. I've got all sorts of new parts out in the shop. I'm replacing the rubber headlight mounts, fan belt and hoses, got a new steering wheel center cap. Found the correct O.E.M. top link. New tie-rod ends. I'm doing new brake shoes while I've got the wheels off. I'm even kicking around the idea of replacing the rear tires. Just put new fronts on a couple months back. She'll be "parade ready" after all of this.

 

[flusher]

That would be why he can't bring them in.

Farmwithjunk, do you want to sell your 150 yet?

Here's my rear tire setup. Someone remarked that they look like the front tires from an MF combine.

 

[Birdhunter1]

A guy I work with ahs a MF 165 Deisel he is thinking of selling. I will say I've never seen it, but by the way he keeps everything else he has (truck, car, wife's car) and by the detail he puts into his work I woudl say it is in great shape. He says it is in great shape and I'd take his word on it.
He says the multipower works good and the engine has no blowby, starts good when cold etc.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

A guy I work with ahs a MF 165 Deisel he is thinking of selling. I will say I've never seen it, but by the way he keeps everything else he has (truck, car, wife's car) and by the detail he puts into his work I woudl say it is in great shape. He says it is in great shape and I'd take his word on it.
He says the multipower works good and the engine has no blowby, starts good when cold etc.

These old Masseys and their Perkins diesels all seem to start good in cold weather. Very seldom do you even see one with a block heater. Many a time I've gone out to feed cattle on the 150 when it was well below zero.


I've got a short list of options I'm dead set on finding with the 165 I want. It's got to be a diesel. I'll take a Multi-Power tranny if it's in good shape, but would prefer the 8-speed. I want the "standard" , not the hi-arch. (28" rear wheels as opposed to 38") I live in hilly country. Lower is better. The 150 and 165 share a bunch of parts. With a 165 paired with my 150, I could keep a few spares on hand and not worry about hard to find parts when these old tractors get REAL old. The 150 was the first new tractor I owned. In fact, it was about the first new ANYTHING I ever owned. It's been around almost as long as my wife. (I've got kinda attached to her too)

I've got my eye on a 165 that'll be selling next spring. It fits my requirements, plus has a fairly new Bush Hog loader on it. Owner is selling out and moving to Florida.

 

[jimmysisson]

Here's my rear tire setup. Someone remarked that they look like the front tires from an MF combine.

Looks like your stay chains are pinned high on the banjo. On my 135 they were attached to a bracket on either side of the pto stub. Some creative solution to adjustable stay chains may help you offset your drawbar to drag your harrows where you like.
Jim

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Looks like your stay chains are pinned high on the banjo. On my 135 they were attached to a bracket on either side of the pto stub. Some creative solution to adjustable stay chains may help you offset your drawbar to drag your harrows where you like.
Jim

Sorta wondered about those chains myself. It looks like maybe someone rigged up a way to control cutting height on a mower using sway chain mounts to attach the to the draft arms. On a 135 with standard tires/wheels, offseting the draft arms far enough to meet Flushers needs would get them into the tires. I'd suggest returning to the ORIGINAL sway chains, then carrying out the offset on the drawbar. I never like to deviate from O.E.M. unless that is the ONLY way to achieve a goal. Things have a way of working better and lasting longer when I follow that criteria.

 

[GaryM]

All I can say is WOW!

 

[Birdhunter1]

These old Masseys and their Perkins diesels all seem to start good in cold weather. Very seldom do you even see one with a block heater. Many a time I've gone out to feed cattle on the 150 when it was well below zero.


I've got a short list of options I'm dead set on finding with the 165 I want. It's got to be a diesel. I'll take a Multi-Power tranny if it's in good shape, but would prefer the 8-speed. I want the "standard" , not the hi-arch. (28" rear wheels as opposed to 38") I live in hilly country. Lower is better. The 150 and 165 share a bunch of parts. With a 165 paired with my 150, I could keep a few spares on hand and not worry about hard to find parts when these old tractors get REAL old. The 150 was the first new tractor I owned. In fact, it was about the first new ANYTHING I ever owned. It's been around almost as long as my wife. (I've got kinda attached to her too)

I've got my eye on a 165 that'll be selling next spring. It fits my requirements, plus has a fairly new Bush Hog loader on it. Owner is selling out and moving to Florida.

FarmwithJunk, where I live in So. Il is pretty much the same terrain you have, very hilly. North of me about 10 miles it ges flat and then in the river botom it's flat but from my house south to Cairo it's hills, and big hills, and bigger hills and a river or two.

The guy I work with has the tractor you're looking for, other than the 8-speed tranny. It is the standard not the hi-arch.

Let me know if you're interested.