oil for air compressor

[nancyk]

I have a tall(50") air compressor, Farmhand Cast Iron, Campbell Hausfeld, that keeps kicking on. Had a neighbor stop by, he said it was probably a loose end connection, tho I doubted that. I noticed some clear fluid coming out the top of the compressor, the neighbor then checked the oil level and said it was low and I should add some. That will not remedy the problem of losing air but I need to get some oil. I do know it should be non-detergent and 30 weight. Should I just go to an auto parts store and get it, and does the container need to say Compressor Oil?

 

[5030]

I use Shell Rarus compressor oil in my expensive Quincy 10 horse QP but any non detergent 30 weight auto store oil will do. Sounds to me like you have a condensation issue, you need to drain the receiver (tank) regularly, like daily if you run it.

 

[nancyk]

It gets used rarely. Mainly to refill a small portable tank or for blowing off the zeroturn once or twice a year. Right now the breakers to it are turned off. How is the receiver drained?

 

[alexpops]

usually a valve under the tank.

 

[nancyk]

I see a valve under the tank, first picture. Not sure if I want to fiddle with that. Second and third pictures show the tank, the fluid(appears to be a clear oil-like substance) seems to be coming from the black part on the top right of the tank in the third picture.

 

[seville009]

I think I got some compressor oil years ago at Tractor Supply; it will be labeled as such.

 

[alexpops]

Yeah. That first pic is the drain valve. Turn the tee handle to drain & re-tighten when the water/moisture stops. Lefty-loosy/righty-tighty. If you're ambitious, replace it with an elbow/ball valve/extension to make future draining easy & you can redirect the moisture with a hose. You seem to have an oil leak at the connection between the compressor & the fill pipe that feeds the tank (might seep air there as well). Let all the air out & turn it off before opening that connection, then see what you need to replace to seal it up. Long as you're there, change the oil/refill & you should be good to go. That fill pipe will get hot when the compressor is running, so don't burn yourself. Shut her down/let her cool off if there is a doubt.

less than 30 seconds on the drain valve should take the moisture out of the tank, unless you've never done it before.

 

[nancyk]

So, just to clarify, should I make sure all the air is out of the tank before I open the drain valve? It seems to be holding at 80 lbs, with the breaker turned off. As to changing the oil, I will not be doing that.

 

[seville009]

I was taught to always drain the air from the tank so that moisture doesn’t build up when not in use, so that’s what I’ve always done. I just have a little 12 gal/125 psi Craftsman though.

 

[alexpops]

You can open the drain valve with air pressure, just don't keep your hand under it in case any rust gets shot out under pressure. (Need some pressure to push the water out) Be ready for a loud whooshing sound when it opens. If you're going to try & tackle the fill pipe, once you open the drain, leave it open until all the air is gone.

 

[nancyk]

O.K., next step is to get some oil. Then I will get the workclothes on and see what happens when the drain valve is opened. I will post update in a few days. Thanx.

 

[WranglerX]

Got manual on how to do maintenance?

 

[5030]

Do keep in mind that if you don't drain it, the tank (receiver) will rust inside and eventually fail as in BOMB.

 

[nancyk]

I do not have the manual. My husband installed this compressor years ago and he is not with us to do maintenance. The ball is in my court.

 

[alexpops]

see if your model no is listed here

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Or do a search on CH manuals & see what comes up

 

[etpm]

It is common for a lot of crud to collect on the tank bottom. This crud can clog the drain valve. It is tempting to use air pressure in the tank to blow this crud out. Doing this can lead to all sorts of crud being blown all over the place and under your skin. If the tank has not been drained for a long time then the safest thing to do is vent all the air from the tank, then remove completely the old drain valve. After removal poke a stiff wire into the hole to loosen the crud. And instead of putting back in the cruddy stock drain valve install an elbow, and an extension about a foot long, and a ball valve. After doing this the tank will be much easier to drain. Also, if air pressure is needed to blow crud out, the ball valve is the much safer option. The drain valves that come stock in virtually all consumer grade air compressors rely on a tapered valve seat and valve. This seat is easily prevented from closing completely by the tiniest of particles, particles which are common in consumer grade air compressors, which is what you have.
Eric

 

[nancyk]

When sort-of looking at the drain valve, I could see potential problems if I managed to break the valve, as I doubt it has ever been opened. So I wil attempt to open it this afternoon, assume the valve will not go back into place correctly, then take the valve somewhere(Harbor Freight, Lowes?) What exactly should I be asking for? The compressor does not get used much but does come in handy when air is needed. If I get a valve and valve seat how do I attach the extension to it? Is the extension pvc?

 

[KennyG]

If that drain valve has never been opened, there is probably a huge amount of water in the tank. Spray it with penetrating fluid before you try to open it. With a little persuasion it will probably open. Although these valves are meant to be operated by hand, you may need to put a wrench on it the first time. A compressor that is only used occasionally should be blown down and left depressurized until you need to use it again.

 

[alexpops]

^^ What KennyG said. Don't force the valve, spray with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil & let it set for a while to let it creep up into the corrosion. Work progressively, as if you break the valve, it will be a bear to remove the stub piece left behind. A little back & forth with leverage as needed to remove the old valve. Can't remember if mine (elbow/ extension/ball valve) was steel or brass ... whatever home depot had in stock at the time. I think mine was 3/8 npt thread on the male end of the elbow when I replaced mine.

 

[5030]

The condensate drain valves on mine are all brass and will unscrew from the bung underneath and a local auto parts store will have a replacement.