oil for air compressor

[nancyk]

UPDATE: sprayed PB Blaster on the drain valve. In a few minutes tried to turn the turn-thingy, it turned easily and a clear fluid came out. A cup, possibly more. I attempted to take off completely the turn-thingy but it acted like it should not come off. Fluid was still coming out, then the consistency and color of the fluid changed, to a thick gooey deep beige. After that slowed down, I handtightened the turn-thingy, put paper towels under the drain valve to check for any leaks, so far none. I added Kobalt air compressor oil.
Nancy

 

[KennyG]

The clear was water. The gooey stuff was water and rust/dirt. Keep draining it every time you use it. When you drain it, let it blow down completely until there is no air pressure or drips. The good news is that you will be able to keep draining it and prevent water buildup. The bad news is that you do have corrosion on the inside of the tank. Keep an eye out for apparent leaks around the seams and fittings.

 

[big bubba]

my Campbell Hausfield compressor states, yes, non detergent 30wt, but also mention that Mobil1 10-30 full synthetic will be fine as well. good luck

 

[nancyk]

Thanks to all for your advice. I will open the drain tomorrow(breaker to compressor is off) and let it drain all day.

 

[etpm]

The valve on the bottom of your air tank has two "wings" , the "turn-thingy", that you turned to open the valve and drain the tank. Closer to the tank is a hex. This is the body of the valve. If you wanted to remove the valve you would use a wrench that fits the hex to unscrew the valve. If you have one, a six point box end wrench would be best to remove the drain valve. This is because the valve body is probably brass and so is soft while at the same time it has been in the tank for a long time which means it is probably going to take extra torque, more than if it was just installed, to remove. And because it is brass it is soft and will tend to round off the flats if a close fitting wrench isn't used.
I would remove and replace this valve if it was my tank. In fact every air tank I have ever owned has had the valve removed and replaced by me. For two main reasons. The first is convenience because it is so much easier to open a ball valve because it has a long lever and I locate the valve such that it is easy to access. The second reason, which should really be the first, is safety. The stock valves, located as they are on the bottom of the tank, are a perfect mechanism for injecting oil, dirty water, and dirt under your skin. This is because people will open the valve before the tank is at zero pressure and will have their hand in the way of the tank contents as they are ejected. Which can lead to the tank contents being injected under your skin. I know the danger well yet I am guilty of opening the damn valves too soon. I have narrowly avoided getting a compressor tank ink tattoo on the palm of my hand. And I know better.
Cheers,
Eric

 

[jjeff]

One of the best things I've done is replace the cheap drains on air compressors with ball valves. Even did it on a couple tiny 6gal pancakes.

 

[nancyk]

"would remove and replace this valve" I do have wrenches that should fit the valve. I believe I will wait until I have someone here who is used to doing this type "removal" and then go to Lowes for a re-fit piece.
Eric, I just printed your advice about removing and changing the valve on the bottom, this will be taped to be compressor for the future, as a reminder.

 

[jwmorris]

The ”turny thingy” is a drain petcock.

Amazon.com

I really like automatic drains myself. like this one.

Amazon.com

That said, I generally don’t set them to drain by time passing, rather I tie into the compressor switch and put a 110 outlet on the tank (below the motor, on the front, in this case). When the compressor runs, it’s powering the fan above the compressor as well as powering up the drain on the tank for a number of seconds, every time it turns on and never while it’s not in operation.

The 1/4” air line coming out of the automatic drain is going out of the building into a container.

Never have to drain it myself and it’s drained every use.

 

[5030]

Mine is electric not mechanical and my screw compressor came with one plus an air dryer. The crud coming out is the receiver rusting inside.

 

[nancyk]

I got the tank pressure down to zero and removed the drain valve w/petcock. I see the hexnut this screws into. I do not have a wrench large enough for that nut. I tried a number of pipe wrenches but just did not feel comfortable attempting to turn the hex nut. I left the drain valve out and draining. I turned on the breaker 4 times to see if adding air would help push anything out but nothing noticeable came out. Some fluid and thick beige-ish goop is slowly dripping out. Should I turn on the breaker for a few minutes, would that help push out the goop?

 

[KennyG]

If the valve is working OK, I wouldn't replace it. If you go ahead and blow the tank down after use, it will continue to blow out some of the goop. I know others are concerned about the blowdown pressure hurting your hand, but I've never had a problem with that. I'm just careful to not put my fingers under the discharge. If you keep draining the water, the inside of the tank will dry out.

 

[5030]

If you keep draining the water, the inside of the tank will dry out.

Maybe, but probably not. The compression of air causes condensation which is why there is a drain for it. Once the mill coating on the inside of the receiver is compromised and rusting, the oxidation will continue to form no matter what.

 

[caver]

I found this recently at walmart and met the specs of my compressor.

 

[5030]

I try to avoid Wally World as much as possible.

 

[big bubba]

OP: sounds like you're doing fine given all the advice. if you leave drain valve open & adj 20-30 psi on compressor, then turn on breaker to purge, etc you should be fine
wise to post your concern on forum, best regards

 

[Jallcorn]

My industrial air compressor vendor told me that his mfg. now ships units with SYNTHETIC air compressor oil factory installed. Previously they shipped the units dry and the end user had to fill with oil prior to use. But the mfg. found that by using synthetic oil, warranty costs for compressor failure dropped to almost zero opposed to a much higher cost with conventional oil. The added cost of factory installation of the synthetic was quickly offset by the reduction in unit failure.

 

[Gord Baker]

Always Drain your compressor after frequent use or even a few times a year.
The Receivers can corrode internally and explode. Drain the air off if you are new to this and turn it on when valve is opened. Be sure unit is level. Discard at 20 years is stamped on mine.

 

[jgmo]

You MUST "fiddle" with that drain valve! Leaving condensate sitting in an air reservoir will damage it due to corrosion!
I suggest that you use the air nozzle that you blow the ZTR off with to let most of the pressure out then open the drain. But be ready because, if you've never drained it before , there's likely to be a substantial amount of water sitting in there along with some oil. It can make quite a mess.

If you want convenience, there are drain valves available that are spring loaded and, after installing a lanyard to the valve and tying it up somewhere at the top of the tank, a simple pull on that cord will drain the tank and you don't even have to bend over.

After draining the tank, run the compressor until it cuts out. Unplug it or shut the breaker off. Use a spray bottle with a mix of water and a small amount of dish soap to spritz around the pipes and compressor cylinder.

DO NOT spray the motor or electrical connections/wires!

Most leaks will show up as bubbles and you can then work on how to stop them.

DRAIN THE COMPRESSOR AFTER EACH USE!
Good luck.

 

[cbbennin]

Try this for your drain - I actually have this and use a remote power switch that turns the drain switch and the compressor on at the same time. You would be amazed at how much water is collected in the tank...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00273WV78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[rocco611]

Most auto parts sell air compressor oil or you can use synthetic motor oil. Check for loose bolts on the compressor (part that leaks oil) sometimes the bolt on the pump cylinder and head can come loose and cause an oil leak . The compressor kicking on often can be caused by an air leak at the check valve (under the pressure switch on your compressor).