Oil??

[drjay9051]

Ok one more question. I changed oil with Penzoil multiviscosity 10w30. I did a search here and there is some controversy about using oil that is not diesel engine oil. I never knew there was such a thing. The manual does not say anything about diesel engine oil but does list multiviscosity as an acceptable oil.. Should I drain and replace with "diesel" engine oil or am I ok???????

 

[themichelob]

There is no "controversy"--you definitely need a diesel rated oil for use in a diesel engine. Diesel rated engine oils also come in multi-viscosities, but one thing has nothing to do with the other. I'll let the experts explain the additives and anti-cavitation properties, but I would swap out to the proper oil before I use the tractor much if I were you! Regards, Mike

 

[bp fick]

A gallon jug of diesel 15w-40 oil at WalMart is $10. Cheap to re-do.
Semi-Synthetic 10w-30 is $15, and full synthetic 5w-40 is $19 a gallon.

Yes, dump, dump filter out, and refill. 10 minutes of your time.
I merely use WalMart as an example because they are everywhere.

 

[LBrown59]

Ok one more question. I changed oil with Penzoil multiviscosity 10w30. I did a search here and there is some controversy about using oil that is not diesel engine oil. I never knew there was such a thing. The manual does not say anything about diesel engine oil but does list multiviscosity as an acceptable oil.. Should I drain and replace with "diesel" engine oil or am I ok???????

Change it to diesel.
Same goes for antifreez use only the type made for diesels.

 

[JoelD]

Didn't realize there was a diesel only antifreeze.

Joel

 

[laurencen]

how can antifreeze be fuel specific

 

[mrutkaus]

You can get an additive to normal antifreeze for diesels.

It needs to be different for diesels because the high compression flexes the cylinders and they make rapid movements which cause cavitation in the cooling system without it.

That said I've put many miles on diesel cars before I found this out here!

Mike

 

[Mousefield]

It needs to be different for diesels because the high compression flexes the cylinders and they make rapid movements which cause cavitation in the cooling system without it.

Mike

Never heard of this before. :confused2:

 

[IslandTractor]

It needs to be different for diesels because the high compression flexes the cylinders

Flexes the cylinders??????

 

[gauthier]

Yeah,heard talk on this but mine was a little low and I just topped off with that bottled 50/50 mix stuff you buy,same color.
If I was ever to change it,would probably look for antifreeze that said for desils,but not sure what the difference is or even if you need to use it,something about wet sleeved cylinders verses non wet sleeves[what ever that is].Guess it has something to do with where coolant flows in some and where it dosn't in others? Manual I think just says use antifreeze.

 

[unhappykioti]

Oil does make a difference make sure you use the correct API rating should be a CC or CD rated oil for diesels. Antifreeze on these tractors does not make a difference the engines do not have liners unlike larger engines that do have liners a coolant additive is required to reduce cavitation around the liners without the additive the liners get pitted and sometimes erode all the way through the liners when that happens coolant enters the the combustion chamber. So you guys with diesel pickups get your coolant DCA (diesel coolant additive) level checked, it is done with a test strip dipped in the coolant very simple to check.

 

[drjay9051]

So I've done my homework and yes I will drain the gasoline engine oil and replace with Rotella. Actually on my prior oil change I believe I had used Rotella. As I understand it there is not a Rotella specifically used for gas engines so if I did use Rotella last time I'm o.k. The question is as follows: If I mistakenly used non-diesel oil at my last oil change have I ruined my engine?? It runs well and no signs of burning oil or other outward problem. If I made the mistake have I shortened my tractor's engine life? Would using a heavier oil like 15W40 be of any benefit assuming I messed up on the last oil change?

 

[bp fick]

So I've done my homework and yes I will drain the gasoline engine oil and replace with Rotella. Actually on my prior oil change I believe I had used Rotella. As I understand it there is not a Rotella specifically used for gas engines so if I did use Rotella last time I'm o.k. The question is as follows: If I mistakenly used non-diesel oil at my last oil change have I ruined my engine?? It runs well and no signs of burning oil or other outward problem. If I made the mistake have I shortened my tractor's engine life? Would using a heavier oil like 15W40 be of any benefit assuming I messed up on the last oil change?

First, relax. No way you hurt your engine. Oil is oil, it lubricates. It's fine.
Why you use Rotella (any diesel oil) is for long term protection and suspension of the soot from diesel. Neither issue comes into play in such a short time.

As for "better" using heavier, NO. That is old mythology. I'd use exactly what the manual calls for. If it calls for 10w-30, then use Rotella 10w-30, although the synthetic 5w-40 might be tempting as well. 15w-40 is fine, but it isn't better.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Oil does make a difference make sure you use the correct API rating should be a CC or CD rated oil for diesels. Antifreeze on these tractors does not make a difference the engines do not have liners unlike larger engines that do have liners a coolant additive is required to reduce cavitation around the liners without the additive the liners get pitted and sometimes erode all the way through the liners when that happens coolant enters the the combustion chamber. So you guys with diesel pickups get your coolant DCA (diesel coolant additive) level checked, it is done with a test strip dipped in the coolant very simple to check.

CC or CD is a 20 year old standard...I think we are up to CJ now.

 

[unhappykioti]

You are correct, just going by my owners manual, CJ is required for new diesels to meet current emissions standards.

 

[bp fick]

When one talks these ratings, the time dating of one's owner's manual comes into view. A manual that was printed 6 years ago, is oft times 4 or 5 ratings behind and eventually becomes fairly useless in these matters.

Got an 20 year car? It's manual will describe oil ratings long super-ceded. Remember when we used SC or SD in our cars? We ripped through SE to SJ in a heartbeat. A modern oil usually is backward compatible and typically that is shown on the label. Personally, oils just keep getting better and better as technology and knowledge of additives improve all the time.

 

[tractorman14]

I use a 10w30 oil in my diesel tractor and have since i've had it. it seems to run fine so i think you would be ok.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

It'll run fine until the engine goes if it isn't diesel rated oil. A mechanic can tell when he opens up an engine and looks at the wear. You'll see gaulded pistons and the like iwith gas engine oil...It doesn't hurt usually to use C rated oil in gas, but S rated oil doesn't hold up in a diesel.

Multi weight oil has nothing to do with API ratings.

 

[JDL538]

I bought a mid 70s Kubota in 1990 it was beat up.
I CHANGED THE OIL every year with store brand 10 w 30 for 20 years, I ran it very hard, never had one problem with the tractor ever in those 20 years.
Some times it seems to me we think to much about all the special things to do to a Tractor, I say if its OIL it will work, same with antifreeze and most other things. JMO

 

[JDL538]

I had a Neighbor back in the 70s who drove about 100 miles a day to and from work.
He would buy a new car and never change the oil, just add to it, He drove them for about 250,000 miles and bought a new one