Disc Harrow old disc repair

[FredH]

Depending on how much time involved and parts availability + costs , Maybe scarp it for $$$ then use that to check out what this guys have to offer :

Woods Equipment - farm & garden - by dealer - sale ??????????????

I bought a 6.5' KK years ago and modified the gangs for my intended purpose . Basically widened it by 6" or so , with both front row and back row disks cupped outwards . Throws soil out from center and for center tillage , I have a 18" ripper . Has 5 100# weights on it , plus some large channel holding those weights . Weighs around 1,100+ # total . Use it for making 7' fire breaks around property . Even if I don't get to that project until soil starts to dry out , It still tears the tar out of the Clay soil we have here .

Agri supply is a pretty good source for parts also . Your Disk is likely fixable , maybe not to original , but with some mods to accommodate more modern parts . But then again , $$ to repair versus cost of a used or even a new disk harrow ???

Fred H.

 

[cedar21]

I am not able to afford a new disc at the moment, otherwise I would go that route.

Interesting to hear about the disc you modified. I would be happy just to have a disc that is usable for this season.

With the bearing on the disc I have, if they are wood, I am not sure what the purpose of the metal pipe inside of the bearing would be, or if that may have been a modification made by a previous owner.

 

[downslope]

I am not able to afford a new disc at the moment, otherwise I would go that route.

Interesting to hear about the disc you modified. I would be happy just to have a disc that is usable for this season.

With the bearing on the disc I have, if they are wood, I am not sure what the purpose of the metal pipe inside of the bearing would be, or if that may have been a modification made by a previous owner.

The metal pipe could be in there to maintain the spacing when you tighten down on the gang bolts (they have to be really tight). Without the pipe you would just be compressing the wood insert and you would never be able to keep it tight, the disks would start to wobble and/or rub on the frame.

If it is s Dearborn disk there are usually part numbers on the back side of the housings near the grease fittings.

Take a good clear picture of an individual bearing assembly front and back, showing how it attaches to the hanger that connects to the frame. Also measure the spacing between adjacent disks. Check them all, at least the ones where the gang bolts are tight; are they all the same, like maybe 6.5 or 7 inches. Let us know what you find.

It's a shame, the blades look in good shape, it looks like it has scrapers, nothing bent up. Maybe you'll luck out and can just slap it back together with a lot of grease. If the bearings are in fact wood and they are just cylindrical with no grooves it seems it would be easy to make up new ones from a hardwood. Good luck.

 

[Degolyerent]

Thank you for posting on the old ford disc. Hooked my old 52 Dearborn on a telephone pole and of course bent the last disc. Put field rock on it till the 3pt. would barely lift it. Going fine until I turned and broke two of the blades. Fix will be 30 years later. If I can find the parts needed.

I have a early 50's Dearborn disc and have bought blades, bearings and axles at Agri-Supply.

 

[Jstpssng]

I am not able to afford a new disc at the moment, otherwise I would go that route.

Interesting to hear about the disc you modified. I would be happy just to have a disc that is usable for this season.

With the bearing on the disc I have, if they are wood, I am not sure what the purpose of the metal pipe inside of the bearing would be, or if that may have been a modification made by a previous owner.

Several people have mentioned AgriSupply; they are probably the quickest, least expensive way to go. You can buy the entire bearing housing and spool for $18.00 plus shipping; it may take a little fabricating you will be ready to go. I have an old Dearborne harrow which I have fixed this way. At the time I could have bought the correct parts, but they were quite pricey.

 

[Jstpssng]

Here are some pictures of parts for my harrow. This one shows both my old and new bearings, the corresponding spools; along with the shaft which goes through them. There also is another half of each housing. This shows the new bearing and spool separately. The third picture shows each bearing and spool together. The one on the right is the original, which had a wooden bushing between the two pieces of metal. (I tried to find the old wooden bushing, but must have gotten tired of looking at it and tossed it.)

 

[Jstpssng]

I have a early 50's Dearborn disc and have bought blades, bearings and axles at Agri-Supply.

You also can still find the old wooden bearings. Replacement Wood Bearings for Disc Harrows, Cultipackers & Other Farm Equipment | Woodex

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

The metal pipe could be in there to maintain the spacing when you tighten down on the gang bolts (they have to be really tight). Without the pipe you would just be compressing the wood insert and you would never be able to keep it tight, the disks would start to wobble and/or rub on the frame.

That is exactly why the metal pipe is there to allow tightening of the gang and to allow the assembly to spin as an assembly. In tough conditions if the gang is loose it will break the centers out of the discs. As a side note there isn't a single disc retailer that will warranty a disc blade that has a broken center, they will blame it on a loose gang every time.

 

[cedar21]

Thanks for the information. Would it be accurate to say that the entire wood and metal pipe assembly supposed to spin in the housing then? At the moment it does not move.

 

[downslope]

Several people have mentioned AgriSupply; they are probably the quickest, least expensive way to go. You can buy the entire bearing housing and spool for $18.00 plus shipping; it may take a little fabricating you will be ready to go. I have an old Dearborne harrow which I have fixed this way. At the time I could have bought the correct parts, but they were quite pricey.

If you can buy all 3 pieces for $18 (is that a current price?) it is certainly worth looking into. Just be sure the width of the spools is the same as the current spacers that are on the disk. Also be sure that the square center hole is the same size as your axle and the disk blade centers. Then you can fabricate a bracket that will bolt to the top bearing half and weld/bolt it to the harrow frame.