Old lady needs your help again....MF1250 radiator woes!

[Old Gray Mare]

Hi Guys!

It's been like 1 1/2 years since you helped me with a no-start problem with my MF1250 and the tractor has been running well, so THANK YOU for the invaluable guidance

I'm needing some help/advice/support with a radiator leak. I was driving it and hear a hissing sound. Stopped and saw coolant dripping onto the ground. It had been thrown everywhere by the fan, so I couldn't trace where it was coming from. Let it cool, and the level in the radiator was down so low I couldn't see it. I put some Bars Stop Leak in (PLEASE don't yell...I had to try ), topped off the coolant, idled it for ~30 minutes, but it didn't do any good. The fluid kept leaking from everywhere. A week or so has gone by and today I pulled the side covers off the engine compartment, added about 2 cups fluid and started the engine and let it run for maybe 3 minutes while I used a flashlight to try & track the leak. After the engine was off, I saw the fins on the right side about 1/4 of the way up from the bottom were wet. The fan had not had a chance to throw fluid all over the place, so the wet area was a good indication of the leak. Then I heard dribble/splash/trickle of coolant litterally draining onto the ground ! Soooooo......

I would so appreciate some guidance on either fixing the leak, or pulling the radiator and taking it to a shop, or replacing the dang thing. The water pump is not leaking. I have the shop manual and, of course, it says like 4 bolts, remove hoses, etc. It sounds so easy, but in reality, I am 66 & live alone with no available help. I have tools and determination without fear of getting dirty or greasy

I need to remove the FEL (have never done it). It's a quick-detach 1246. Is it difficult? Then I need to remove the top of the hood. 4 bolts, right? Then detach the top & bottom hoses? What about the thermostat? How hard is it to remove the radiator? Can these be repaired? I'd bet there are no replacements available, so would a radiator with the right measurements work, or does it need to be MF specific?

So many questions, but I don't want to screw it up. I am very rural & don't have a trailer to haul it to a shop. I need the little red machine to help me around my place. I bought it new and it's in excellent condition. It's like a partner...lol.

Thank you in advance for ANY advice, guidance, or plain old encouragement!

 

[Ed of all trades]

There are radiator shops all over. The one here in town can build what you want or fix what you have. Sounds like yours would be an easy fix for a radiator shop, you just have to get it out and to them. Don't know the steps to take that one out but others likely will. Ed

 

[irvingj]

Can't help with the specifics of your tractor, but generally, removing a radiator isn't that difficult. The thermostat, BTW, is usually located under the base of the top hose on the engine block (perhaps beneath a "gooseneck" fitting); though it may not be necessary to remove it, it might not be a bad idea to replace it while you're in there. Usually, it will be a standard type of automotive thermostat --and gasket-- that can be found at most auto parts stores.

As far as the radiator itself, most any community of any size will have a radiator repair shop; I'd take it to them. They might be able to re-solder a leaky area, but they might also decide it would be best to "re-core" it, which means they'd save the top & bottom "tanks" and replace the whole center area with the fins all over it. As radiators age, those fins (& small tubes within) will wear out and begin to leak, either at the solder joints or within the tubes themselves. Fairly common on older vehicles.

Cars these days usually have tanks on the right & left sides (a cross-flow radiator); your tractor probably has the more traditional upper & lower tanks like older cars did.

Here are some image links I've found:
http://www.aaautotech.com/portals/0/radiators.png
http://www.carserviceprices.com/wp-...ages_a04_io_t0_clean-car-radiator-800x800.jpg
http://www.allautomotiverepair.com/...4/radiator-repair-in-mcdonough-ga-300x260.png

Hope this helps!

 

[groundcover]

Just be aware of where the leaking antifreeze ends up as it is sweet and toxic to critters. Fixing the radiator isn't a big deal for a radiator shop, just a project getting it out ! Good luck ! :thumbsup:

 

[stuckmotor]

You shoud have gotten a manual with the loader that tells you how to remove and remount it. Be careful, the loader is heavy.

 

[davesl708]

You may check YouTube to get tips on removing the radiator. Should be straight forward. A repair should be cheaper than replace unless the radiator is in bad shape all over.

 

[murphy1244]

They don't have radiator shops like they used to. I bet you end up replacing it.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Not familiar with your tractor, but I cant see a need to remove the FEL to get the radiator off especially if you remove the tractor hood. Most radiators only have 2 bolts on top holding the radiator in. Of course you need to remove the top and bottom hoses and then you should be able to just raise it straight up and out of the tractor. There may be some additional braces to the sheet metal that have to come off but they should be easily removed if needed.
Be prepared for sticker shock at the replacement cost. I had to replace the radiator on my JD 332 diesel lawn tractor at a radiator shop and it was over $250 and it was a very small radiator. I don't know how much of that was labor and how much was parts. He used the top and bottom of my old radiator to attach to a new core since my top and bottom tanks were solid brass. This was about half the cost of a JD OEM radiator which would have been the new type with plastic tops and bottoms. I got a much better radiator at half the cost.


Radiator repair places are getting fewer and fewer so you may have to search a bit to find one, but they are still around. When current owners pass away, I am sure the business will fold up. Every radiator shop I have seen has an old geezer running it and no young apprentices on site.

 

[Gary Fowler]

One more thing, most if not all radiators will set in a rubber grommet or rubber "chair" on the bottom. Make sure you don't loose that rubber when you take out the radiator.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Can't help with the specifics of your tractor, but generally, removing a radiator isn't that difficult. The thermostat, BTW, is usually located under the base of the top hose on the engine block (perhaps beneath a "gooseneck" fitting); though it may not be necessary to remove it, it might not be a bad idea to replace it while you're in there. Usually, it will be a standard type of automotive thermostat --and gasket-- that can be found at most auto parts stores.

Thanks for the info! Question re: the thermostat...do I need a torque wrench to reinstall a new one? I know when the one on my '93 6.5TD was replaced the fella needed to know the correct torque. Also, he used a gasket "glue", so is that necessary, also?