old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt

   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt #1  

boatmoter

Silver Member
Joined
May 3, 2013
Messages
226
Location
plant city florida
Tractor
john deere 212// john deere 320 // ford 2120 loader
have a 69 MF # 20 industrial, Perkins Gas, with a MF-32 loader. what do I need to do to replace the Alternator belt? looks like about 1" between the balancer & frame and back of pump. and does the pump shaft need to be unbolted at the balancer to get the belt around it?
 
   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt #2  
Yes, the shaft needs to be unbolted. Then, take the grill off. Unbolt the hydraulic pump and shove the pump forward. This will give you room to put the new belt on. Also, if you take the alternator off, don't have to remove the wires, it will give you more room to get in from that side.
 
   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yes, the shaft needs to be unbolted. Then, take the grill off. Unbolt the hydraulic pump and shove the pump forward. This will give you room to put the new belt on. Also, if you take the alternator off, don't have to remove the wires, it will give you more room to get in from that side.
Thanks.
 
   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Yes, the shaft needs to be unbolted. Then, take the grill off. Unbolt the hydraulic pump and shove the pump forward. This will give you room to put the new belt on. Also, if you take the alternator off, don't have to remove the wires, it will give you more room to get in from that side.
did it this morning.. the collar that bolts to the pulley would not let it come back far enough , it hit the heavy bracket the shaft goes through. there's only about 1/4 of clearance. looks like Im going to have to unbolt the axle from the engine to let it move far enough forward to get the belt past it. any suggestions other then what I came up with? I broke my 15/16 box wrench off trying to get the bolt to loosen, the one with the nut on it on top right-side of engine. snapped that Chinese box end off
 
   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt #5  
Did you unbolt the pump from the mounts? The bolts are #27 on either side of the pump. That is why you have to take the lower grill off. This extra slack will give you room to get the belt on. You need to pry the drive plate away from the crank pulley when you have removed the pump bolts.
DO NOT UNBOLT THE FRONT END. This is much easier that doing that.

If the axle is in the way, the pump shaft can be unscrewed from the pump drive plate, but usually doesn't give up easily.
 

Attachments

  • 32 pump.jpg
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   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Did you unbolt the pump from the mounts? The bolts are #27 on either side of the pump. That is why you have to take the lower grill off. This extra slack will give you room to get the belt on. You need to pry the drive plate away from the crank pulley when you have removed the pump bolts.
DO NOT UNBOLT THE FRONT END. This is much easier that doing that.

If the axle is in the way, the pump shaft can be unscrewed from the pump drive plate, but usually doesn't give up easily.
yes,I took the bolts out of the pump. the hub that bolted to the pulley is bottoming out against the thick frame. I will upload pics tomorrow. I don't have the grill in mine
 
   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt
  • Thread Starter
#7  
yes,I took the bolts out of the pump. the hub that bolted to the pulley is bottoming out against the thick frame. I will upload pics tomorrow. I don't have the grill in mine
 

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  • MASSEY PULLY 1.JPG
    MASSEY PULLY 1.JPG
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  • MASSEY PULLEY 2.JPG
    MASSEY PULLEY 2.JPG
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   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Did you unbolt the pump from the mounts? The bolts are #27 on either side of the pump. That is why you have to take the lower grill off. This extra slack will give you room to get the belt on. You need to pry the drive plate away from the crank pulley when you have removed the pump bolts.
DO NOT UNBOLT THE FRONT END. This is much easier that doing that.

If the axle is in the way, the pump shaft can be unscrewed from the pump drive plate, but usually doesn't give up easily.
I don't see any way to get to the pump shaft to un screw it even after removing the pump,no room
 
   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt #9  
I don't see any way to get to the pump shaft to un screw it even after removing the pump,no room

Wow, I see the problems. Well, I guess unbolting the front end is the only choice. You might get some bolts that are a little longer than two of the buckle up bolts that hold the front end on. That way, you can just slide the front end out without fear of it flipping.

I don't see why there is such a gap on the crank pulley where you have your strap wrench. Usually, that gap is only about 1/2" or so. Yours looks like it is about an 1"-1 1/2". The crank pulley is secure on the crankshaft?
 
   / old MF-20 W/ mf 32 loader, alternator belt
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Wow, I see the problems. Well, I guess unbolting the front end is the only choice. You might get some bolts that are a little longer than two of the buckle up bolts that hold the front end on. That way, you can just slide the front end out without fear of it flipping.

I don't see why there is such a gap on the crank pulley where you have your strap wrench. Usually, that gap is only about 1/2" or so. Yours looks like it is about an 1"-1 1/2". The crank pulley is secure on the crankshaft?
actually, after unbolting the hub from the pulley and prying it forward it's about 1/4" max. but I will double check the pulley to make sure it's tight on the crank
 

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