Old well. how do I adjust pressure switch?

[megotatractor]

I'd like to flatten the pressure variation on my aged well system. the pressure switch is rated (probably) at 40 to 60 psi, there are three adjustments as I understand; low, high, and range??? whcih ones do I turn which way to keep the pressure high and steady as possible?? also, any advise appreciated on a low cost upgrade to an aged "pump jack" - a gearbox which drives the pump rod up and down with a belt driven electric motor and once upon a time had a windmill attached to it.and less than 3gallon per minute capacity-. I have only a 2 inch well casing. I need to at least double the capacity, cheap as possible. what, jet pump? whatchathink?

 

[ByronBob]

I don't know about the old system but to increase pressure limits you tighten the settings down on the switch. To lessen the pressure settings you loosen. In other words you go clockwise to increase and counter to decrease.
The 40/60 limits are very universal because the system can handle that range fairly well. It's the norm for it. If your there then you might want to stay there.

 

[JimR]

You can surf the net for that information as to what pump to use. Put in a larger storage tank also while you are at it. You shouldn't have to crank your pump up over 60 psi. Mine runs at 20-40.

 

[turnkey4099]

There are still pump jack systems in use?? Wow. I haven't seen one of them since ours in 1949 and that one was antique.

Changing the switch settings will not increase your output, only change the range. For modern pumps it is left at 20 psi differential to optimize pump run/off time. Unless you have a special situation, 40-60 should not cause any problems.

Pump upgrade? 2" casing. Might be a problem. I don't know if there are any submersibles that will fit in there. As for jet type again the small caseing size might be a problem. They need two pipes down the hole. It they will fit that would be best.. A shallow well pump will work if the water table is hight enought. Shallow well will only draw from about 26 feet.

Harry K

 

[GaryQWA]

If you flatten the variation (tighten the range settings), you cause the motor to start/stop more frequently. That wears the motor out and spins the electric meter. The switch manufacturers (probably motor guys too) want a minimum of 20 psi between the cut-in and out settings.

You should check/adjust your captive air pressure in your tank; assuming a bladder type tank. If so the air pressure with no water in the tank is to be 1-2 psi less than the cut-in setting on the switch. I.E. 30/50 gets 29-28 psi with no water in the tank so the bladder can compress fully and so you have the proper volume of air in the tank. Not having that right is the main cause of bladder failure.

To agjust the switch.. Depending on what type you have, the tall screw nut raises/lowers both the cut-in and out, changing the range. The short screw nut or bolthead (Furnas switches) adjusts only the cut-out setting. CW raises, CCW lowers.

There are no submersible pumps that you could use in a 2" well. Only sampling pumps are made in less than 3" OD. Depending on the depth to the water, and if you can get the stuff out of the well thats in there now for your current pump, you may be able to use a shallow well jet pump or self priming centrifical pump BUT... if the well doesn't produce more than that 3 gpm, that is out. Maybe it's the current pump that doesn't produce more than 3 gpm. If it's the well, then a new well is about the only choice or to connect 2 or more 2" wells together.

 

[woodlot]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( connect 2 or more 2" wells together.)</font>

I have thought about doing that for a irrigation system. How far apart should two or three 2" driven points be?

 

[GaryQWA]

I really don't know much about driven wells but since they are in sand and gravel aquafers, you probably could have a 'farm' of them. Although if they are close enough to each other, one will draw the other down like any type well would. But IMO, that would be bad for a driven well and shallow well jet pump.

Maybe a quick read here would help, they deal in a lot of driven well Q&As;
http://www.voy.com/102731/

 

[Egon]

Ahh - with a rod punp you can

increase the stoke length.

increase the strokes per minute.

Increase the diameter of the pump if that is possible.

Put in a cistern, time yor pump to delivery rate and use a seperate pump to pressure the house system.

Egon

 

[megotatractor]

Yes, anything but an expensive new well. I thought about the cistern strategy but was concerned about bacteria in the cistern. My current thought is to remove the 15 gallon pressure tank and put in something like a 100 gallon tank and a booster pump to supply the house.
-I dont' think it be a good idea to mess with the stroke length. running for a hundred years has likely worn the inside of the cylinder and stroking longer would no doubt destroy the leathers instantly.
-I already replaced the old flat pulley with a V pulley and therefore it is already running slightly faster than original. The well guy I talked to did not recommend running it faster but I didn't think to ask WHY? I should hook up an amp meter to the 3/4 hp motor to check the load. Then if I have extra motor capactiy it would be a simple matter of installing a larger drive pulley on the motor to change the drive ratio. I just don't know what would happen if I run faster? would the rubbers blow? too much shake? something break? I shall try to find out how deep the water table is, the shallow pump seems my only other option. What think?

 

[Egon]

The larger pressure tank is a good idea. Increasing the RPM just gives you more pumping stokes per minute. It will also be harder on the pump rod.

If the rod pump hasn't been seviced in a long time it may not hurt to pull it and rebuild it. But then if you do that why not just put down a jet pump that will fit in the casing?

Egon